Woottens, in the flat lands of Suffolk at Wenhaston, five miles from the sea, was founded in 1990 by Michael Loftus, who was much admired as a plantsman. In 2016, four years after he died, his widow sold the nursery to two women who, from working with Loftus, had absorbed much of his knowledge, and shared his particular interest in irises, pelargoniums, hemerocallis and auriculas.

Auriculas are fussy, and for these they have some help from Gillian’s partner Jenny Stafford – in the past, the propagation was done by Sandra Sutton, who bred more than 30 of Woottens’ own hybrids. After the polytunnel collapsed during a storm in 2018, it had to be reclad and it took a couple of seasons to rebuild the collection. In 2020, however, they bought the Drointon collection of 2,000 show auriculas, and now Woottens is one of the best places to buy auriculas.

What are auriculas?

In the 18th and 19th centuries, auriculas were among the most popular plants collected by members of the English Florists’ Societies, and they remain popular with collectors to this day. Although the alpine auriculas are generally robust enough to grow in borders, Luci and Gillian believe both show and alpine auricula types are best grown in individual pots, and perhaps displayed in a traditional Auricula Theatre, where the vast array of different flowers in wonderful colours can be fully appreciated.

Jump to

• How to grow auriculas
• Dividing auriculas
• Feeding auriculas
• Where to grow auriculas
• Where to buy auriculas
• How to propagate auricuas
• Top 16 auriculas to grow

How to grow auriculas

Root aphids have recently been a nuisance to growers of auriculas, so I wanted to learn how they manage their plants. Gillian says these picky alpines hate being too wet, but they also don’t like being too dry in summer, because root aphids thrive in dry conditions.

Dividing auriculas

Many growers divide their plants after flowering, but life on the nursery is too busy, so their plants are usually divided in July to August. When root aphids strike, it involves removing all the compost and then washing the roots with horticultural soap.

Feeding auriculas

The plants get a root feed high in phosphorous and very low in nitrogen in early February, and a potassium feed to encourage flowers a fortnight later and then every two weeks. Woottens use a compost that is 50 per cent peat substitute, 25 per cent grit or perlite and 25 per cent loam, such as John Innes, with some added slow-release fertiliser.

Where to grow auriculas

Auriculas grow in the crevices of rocks, so they do not like being overpotted. Ideally, they should be in a shady east-facing site, with protection from wet in winter.

Where to buy auriculas

If you are tempted to start your own auricula collection, look out for Woottens’ availability list, which is usually published on its website in February. You can order as soon as the list is published, for dispatch in March, but be quick, as this early release attracts lots of collectors and enthusiasts – last year’s list sold out within a week. Most years Woottens also holds an Auricula Open Day in late April.

Address Woottens of Wenhaston, The Iris Field, Hall Road, Wenhaston, Suffolk IP19 9HF. Tel 01502 478258/07802 507693.
Web woottensplants.com Open Every Saturday from March to October, 10am-4pm.

How to propagate auricuas

The only way to reproduce an auricula true to its parent is by taking offsets from that parent. You can do this at any time while the plant is actively growing, but it is probably best to take offsets after flowering, while repotting.

• Begin by removing all the old compost from the roots thoroughly, and cleaning if there are any signs of pest or disease.

• Split the clumps if necessary or desired and repot. Any offsets can be easily teased off the main root (known on auriculas as the ‘carrot’) and potted up. Always make sure you have a section of both root and leaf to make a viable new plant.

• After division, pot into 7-9cm pots and feed the young plants with a high-phosphate feed to encourage strong root growth.

• Don’t overpot auriculas. This may lead to overwatering, with roots sitting in wet compost, when they need excellent drainage.

Top 16 auriculas to grow

Primula auricula ‘Cuckoo Fair’

One of the Self group of auriculas that are the closest to the original auricula species, with petals of just one clear colour. Easily damaged and best grown in show pots. Bred by Pop’s Plants in 1996, it has deep-purple flowers and tall upright stems. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Weirdo’

Another from the Stripe group, this is an unusual form with lightly dusted, purple and lemon stripes. An often variable but handsome plant. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Gild Green’

One of the Edge group of auriculas, which are distinguished by having an unusual edge to the flower petals. In this case flowers have a black body with a green edge. The cultivar name is thought to be an abbreviated version of ‘Geldersome Green No.2’, bred by Jack Ballard in 1970, and so-called because the original plant flowered, was named and then died. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Arwen’

A plum-red cultivar that belongs to the light-centred alpine group that are strong growers and well-suited to growing in open borders. Petals fade from a dark colour to a lighter shade. One of a series named for Lord of the Rings characters, bred by John Radford. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Devons Road’

A Fancy type of auricula, technically the rejects of auricula breeding (those that didn’t fit in with the stringent rules of the other groups were categorised as Fancy). It has a purple body and a thick white edge, and was bred by Henry Pugh in 2006. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Strand’

A Stripe type with flowers that have stripes of red, bronze and white and the powdery markings known as farina on the petals. It was bred by Henry Pugh in 2003. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Stripey’

An unusual Double auricula with small, finely striped mauve and cream flowers. Unusually for a Double auricula, it shows an open centre. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Sandhills’

A floriferous, gold-centred alpine with flowers that are dark maroon with a narrow edge. A seedling of P. auricula ‘Sirius’, it was bred by Arthur Delbridge in 1989, and named after a local sand quarry near the raiser’s home. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Woottens Ragged Canary’

Another Fancy type, this one bred by Woottens in 2008. Lightly fragrant, it has attractive multi-coloured flowers that are yellow with a green edge. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Woottens Advent’

A Border type bred by Woottens in 2008. A cross between Primula auricula ‘May’ x Primula auricula ‘Old Yellow Dusty Miller’, it has soft purple flowers. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Minty’

A purple cultivar, with pale, mint-green stripes from the Stripe group, one of the oldest categories. Bred by Derek Parsons in 2006. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Brick Lane’

A Self type that has attractive orange-red flowers and was bred by Henry Pugh in 2009. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Voodoo Mama’

A Stripe type with flowers striped deep and pale purple. Bred by Derek Parsons in 2006. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Old Irish Scented’

One of the Border group that generally resemble the species Primula hirsuta, although this dusky yellow with a frilled edge is very different in appearance. It was discovered in the gardens of Lissadell House in Ireland. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Bright Ginger’

A Self type with striking golden orange colour. Thought to be a Tim Coop seedling, named by Brenda Hyatt in 1997. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

Primula auricula ‘Helen Barter’

A Fancy type with flowers that have a purple body with a grey-green edge. It was bred in 1988 by R Barter. 15-20cm. RHS H5, USDA 3b-9b.

British gardens are key habitats for bees and butterflies and gardeners can do a lot to attract wildlife and help the decline in pollinators. An increase in beneficial insects can mean fewer pests, too. Our guide to attracting wildlife into the garden gives advice on ecological design, the best plants for pollinators and stylish container displays for beneficial insects.

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If a plant is listed as pollinator friendly, it means it will provide nectar and pollen for pollinating insects such as bees and butterflies. It also refers to the shape of the flower and how the plant has been grown. Pollinator-plants will often have trumpet-shaped blooms or single flowers for insects to crawl into and land on, and mostly free from pesticides. Look out for the Royal Horticultural Society’s Plants for Pollinators symbol at garden centres and plant nurseries if you want reassurance that you’re buying the best plants for garden wildlife.

Here is our guide to attracting wildlife into the garden, with advice on pollinator-friendly plants and how to improve wildlife habitats through considered garden design.

How to attract wildlife to your garden

There are lots of ways to encourage wildlife into the garden, from simply planting a range of different flowering plants, to building an insect hotel or introducing a bird feeder. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

Grow a range of bee and butterfly-loving plants and flowers

• Make sure the plants have different flower shapes to invite a whole host of beneficial insects into the garden. Salvias or Verbena bonariensis attract butterflies and bees, and trees and evergreen or flowering shrubs that will provide shelter for birds. Try to leave a patch of nettles, as they are beneficial as food to caterpillars. Here’s our list of the best plants for bees, and the best plants for butterflies. 

Leave seeds head up over winter for insects

• In winter, leave architectural seed heads for birds to feed on and plants with strong stems are perfect for hibernating beetles and solitary bees.

Look for plants that bees will love – full of pollen

• Avoid sterile plants with little or no pollen. These are often double flowered cultivars.

Build a pond

• Build a pond for frogs. They’ll eat the slugs attacking your lettuce. Make sure small animals can get out of the pond easily by creating a boggy area around it. We love these garden design ideas on ponds and pools. 

Make space for insect hotels and bird boxes

Hedgehog houses, insect hotels and bird boxes are all easy to add to the garden and are invaluable to hibernating wildlife and nesting birds. Don’t miss our guide on how to build a bug hotel, and here are our favourite insect hotels to buy.  Bird boxes are a great way to get birds to stick around too. 

 Plant for the birds

Planting a hedgerow a bird can eat could get them through winter. We have a great guide on the best plants for birds. 

Make sure you plant with biodiversity in mind

• Enhance biodiversity. Don’t tidy your garden too much. In autumn, leave all plants and leaves that have died off and don’t start clearing them up until February. The dead plant material offers protection against frost and shelter for insects and other small animals. Most insects like cool, moist conditions, but bees prefer a sunny spot.

Never use pesticides

If you’re looking for tips on how to control things like slugs, our piece from organic grower Poppy Okotcha explains how you can do that without nasty pesticides. 

Aim for ladybirds

• There are several pollen plants that attract ladybugs that tend to be yellow and white, such as Angelica, Cosmos and Fennel.
• Plant decoy plants that will attract aphids away from your desired bug free plants until the ladybugs remove them for you. Aphid attracting decoy plants could include: Early Cabbage, Marigold and Radish.

Ladybugs eat two things: insect pests and pollen, and there are several pollen plants that ladybugs like, including: Calendula, Chives, Cosmos and Marigold.

Attracting bats to your garden

Did you know that attracting bats to your garden is one of the safest and most efficient methods for natural insect control? One little brown bat can eat 1,200 insects per hour.

A great bat attracting method is to build a bat house to provide a warm cosy shelter for the creatures. Since bats tend to set up colonies in the early spring, building a bat house is the perfect winter project! Some tips are:

• Use a rough, nontoxic wood (such as plywood or cedar) to make your box. The rough surface will make it easier for bats to climb in and out of the house.
• Place in a warm, sunny position for warmth
• Keep it close to a freshwater source (pond, stream)
• Support on a pole or the side of a building.

The key to attracting bats to your garden is to plant night-scented flowers, such as Yucca and Evening Primrose.

Attracting frogs to your garden

Attracting frogs to your garden is beneficial for the welfare of your plants. Frogs make great insect killers so why not attract some garden frogs to help with those little pests.

• Build toad houses – overturned flower pots buried lightly in the soil make great shelters.
• Avoid using pesticides in your garden. Frogs are sensitive to chemicals so use natural sources of nutrients in your garden such as compost.
• Keep pets away from the part of the garden set up for attracting frogs.

Toads and female frogs usually spend winter on land, under rockery stones (or in a log pile). Recommended rock plants are: Aubretia, Hardy Geraniums and Sedums.

Wildlife-friendly container display

If you want your garden to benefit pollinating insects like bees and butterflies but worry your garden isn’t big enough for swathes of planting, consider creating a pot display. Containers planted with plants that attract wildlife suit a garden of any size. Try this gorgeous example.

The best seed heads for winter structure

Seedheads glistening with frost play an important part in bringing structural winter interest to the garden as well as providing food for birds and insects. For our recommended list of the best seedheads to create and eye-catching display in winter, click here.

Appreciate spiders in the garden

A healthy spider population will help reduce pest insects and should be welcome in any garden. Spiders obviously make no distinction between pests and helpful insects like hoverflies and bees, but they help maintain a natural balance wherever they are. Find out how to appreciate the spiders in your garden.

Improve your soil

No-dig gardener Charles Dowding explains why caring for the soil in your garden is just as important as caring for the plants you grow in it. Nurture your soil and you nurture the helpful organisms living in it, such as earthworms and beneficial fungi and bacteria.

The Victorians loved to show off, and table centrepieces became increasingly extravagant throughout the 19th century, often displaying a cornucopia of newly introduced houseplants teamed with exotic blooms and fruit. I wanted to capture a little of that dark and moody flamboyancy against the rich olive green of this wall. The arrangement was built around an aspidistra, the epitome of Victorian houseplants, combined with a selection of deep-green plants with similar and contrasting leaf textures.

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Pot et fleur with aspidistra How to achieve the look

A glazed Victorian wash bowl, is ideal for this flamboyant display. It has no drainage holes, so won’t leak on to furniture, but will need careful watering. To begin, I lined the bowl with expanded clay pellets to absorb excess water then added a propriety houseplant compost mixed with extra charcoal. I placed the houseplants in the compost but kept the cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) in its own pot for ease of removal, as it will quickly outgrow the display. Finally, I sank four thin-necked glass vases in the gaps, before top dressing with additional clay pellets.

The aspidistra copes well with shade, as do the other houseplants, inlcuding x Fatshedera lizei ‘Pia’, a cross between Fatsia japonica and Hedera helix. I placed two trailing peperomia at the front of the bowl to cascade over the lip. For foliar contrast I added a maidenhair and an asparagus fern.

The clean lines of the polygonatum’s tall, arching stems embellished with pendent flowers sits perfectly above the fading flowers of Helleborus x sahinii ‘Winterbells’, which take on a greener hue with age. The ridged, clean stems of Equisetum hyemale add a vertical contrast to the composition.

The arrangement needs a spot away from direct sunlight and regular misting. Overwatering is often the cause of a plant’s demise, so always check the compost before watering. If you don’t trust your finger use a water indication stick. Houseplants benefit from a weekly balanced liquid feed in the growing season, but too much nitrogen can lead to weak sappy growth.

Plants

1 Equisetum hyemale Evergreen, marginal plant. 90cm. USDA 4a-9b.

2 Helleborus x sahinii ‘Winterbells’ January to April. 30cm. USDA 4a-9b.

3 Peperomia ‘Rocca Verde’ South American trailing plant. 15cm.

4 Adiantum hispidulum ‘Bronze Venus’ Rosy maidenhair fern. 45cm.

5 x Fatshedera lizei ‘Pia’ The ivy tree. 2m. AGM*. RHS H3, USDA 7a-10b.

6 Monstera deliciosa Cheese plant. 2.5m. AGM. RHS H1B, USDA 10a-12.

7 Asparagus aethiopicus Asparagus fern. 30cm. AGM.

8 Aspidistra elatior Sometimes known as the cast iron plant. 70cm.

9 Polygonatum x hybridum A tall perennial. April to June. 90cm.

Equipment you’ll need

• Traditionally, ornate punch bowls or soup tureens were used to hold elaborate, pot-et-fleur designs but any container could be adapted for a more contemporary approach including terracotta and ceramic bowls, willow baskets, glass aquariums or metal boxes, but if it’s not water tight, you’ll need to take care to protect the surface it sits on.
• Within the main container you can use any sealed vessel to hold the cut flowers but if it will be partially visible, opt for more attractive containers, such as old ink pots or vintage glass bottles that have a wide base and thin neck. Glass test tubes are a good option but take care when burying them in case they break, and always secure safely.
• A pin holder is an excellent way of accurately securing heavy stems. These discs of metal spikes are much relied on in the practice of ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arranging, lending a more naturalistic feel to an arrangement. I also use several heavy, semi-spherical glass frogs to hold flowers and branch stems. Be sure to attach both of these securely to the base of the vase with floral putty or tape before arranging. A length of wide-gauge chicken wire scrunched into a loose ball will do a similar job. Sharp scissors or secateurs are also essential bits of kit; thorn and leaf strippers are useful too.
• Before you start arranging your cut flowers, snip off the ends of picked stems and remove any foliage that will be below the water level and leave in deep water for up to 24 hours. Regularly topping up water levels or changing the water entirely every couple of days will help the arrangement last longer as air locks and bacteria will quickly cause a stem to wilt.
• Houseplants are easily killed through overwatering, so using hydroleca clay expanded pellets will not only add an attractive finish to the container, they will also absorb extra water, slowly releasing it as the compost dries out. They help maintain a humid microclimate around the plants when wet and even out fluctuations in the surrounding temperature. Activated charcoal is another useful addition to the growing medium as it reduces the build up of impurities minimising odours.
• Propriety brands of houseplant potting compost with an open, free-draining mix should be sufficient for most growing needs but you can improve drainage by adding perlite, vermiculite, horticultural sand or grit. A top dressing of decorative gravel, clay pellets or moss will also reduce water loss.
• A slim watering can with a long narrow spout for small spaces is ideal for these displays, but misting is an excellent way to maintain the humidity around plant leaves.

 Read more about the art of pot et fleur

Popular for spring displays, hyacinths bring a real splash of colour to house and garden early in the gardening season. Available in a range of shades including blues, white, pink, purple, yellow and deep red. Their scent adds to their appeal too. They flower spikes are made up of a multitude of closely packed florets.

Jump to

• When to plant hyacinth bulbs
• How to plant hyacinth bulbs
• Planting hyacinth bulbs in the garden
• How to grow hyacinth indoors
• The best hyacinths to grow
• What are bulb vases and can I grow hyacinths in them?
• What to do with hyacinths after flowering?
• Where to buy hyacinth bulbs

How to grow hyacinths

Hyacinths are bought as bulbs in autumn and are easy to grow. When choosing your hyacinths to buy you will notice that some are sold as ‘prepared’. These are the ones to buy if you want your bulbs for growing indoors to bloom around Christmas or in January. Prepared bulbs have already been treated to a period of cold, which stimulates production of the hormones required for stem extension and so brings them into growth earlier. For later flowering or growing in the garden, normal, non-prepared bulbs are fine.

When to plant hyacinth bulbs

Plant your hyacinth bulbs in autumn. They will then flower around March to April. For prepared bulbs for growing indoors, you should plant these a little earlier and allow a good 10-12 weeks before expecting them to be ready to flower. For Christmas or winter blooms, for example, plant in August/September.

How to plant hyacinth bulbs

Planting hyacinth bulbs in the garden

• Hyacinths will grow in any good, well-drained garden soil and perform well in a range of situations including borders and rockeries. They need some moisture to grow and flower properly but avoid boggy areas where they may rot. A drier situation is preferred when the leaves have died back and they are dormant in summer.

• Hyacinths prefer a sunny position although will be fine in semi-shade where you are happy to only have a one-year display (they won’t have stored enough energy for a good second year’s showing).
• Plant bulbs in late September – October. Plant each bulb, pointed end upwards, 10cm deep. Leave a gap of at least 8cm between each bulb.
• To improve drainage, you can add a small handful of grit to the bottom of the planting hole.
• Autumn-planted bulbs will flower in March to April.

How to grow hyacinth indoors

• Use prepared bulbs for best results – these are widely available at garden centres.
• Choose a container big enough for 3-5 bulbs and deep enough for good root growth.

Here’s more on forcing bulbs indoors

The best hyacinths to grow

Hyacinths come in three types – single hyacinths with single florets, double hyacinths, where each floret has a double ray of petals, and multiflora hyacinths that have a looser arrangement of florets on multiple flower stems. Their looser appearance can make them easier to grow in the garden where a less-formal look is preferred. The singles and doubles make good displays for growing in pots indoors.

Not to be mistaken with:

Grape hyacinths, which although there is a similarity in their form are a completely different species – Muscari.

Recommended hyacinths with an Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from the RHS

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Miss Saigon’ Deep wine-coloured, compact flower spikes. 30cm

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Royal Navy’ Dark-blue, double flowers densely packed on to flower spikes. Highly scented. 25cm

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Gipsy Queen’  Heirloom hyacinth with single, pale salmon-orange flowers, paler towards the edge. Good fragrance. 30cm

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ Mid-blue single flowers, nicely described as porcelain blue. Good scent. 30cm

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘City of Haarlem’ Soft yellow flowers make this a nice change from the more usual blues, pinks and whites. 30cm

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Jan Bos’ Intense magenta coloured and highly scented flowers in a compact shape. 25cm

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Paul Hermann’ Strong lilac-pink colouring and strong scent. 30cm

Recommended by head gardener Matt Reese

Hyacinth orientalis ‘Woodstock’ A rich ruby colour with emerald leaves. Good for growing indoors. 30cm

What are bulb vases and can I grow hyacinths in them?

Bulb vases as a lovely way to grow single bulbs. They are glass vases with a narrow, splayed neck the you place the bulb on to – without it falling through into the vase. Fill with water to just below the base of the sitting bulb. Place in a dark cool spot, such as a cupboard and check periodically to ensure the water is kept topped up and that the roots are beginning to grow down into the vase and the shoot is emerging. Once the shoot is 3-4cm in height, bring the vase into a sunny warm room and the bulb will soon flower.
If the water gets cloudy, carefully lift the bulb off and refresh the water. You can also add charcoal to water to help keep it fresh.

Find out more about forcing bulbs

What to do with hyacinths after flowering?

• Deadhead spent flowers.
• Feed the remaining leaves regularly with a high-potassium liquid plant food until the leaves start to yellow.
• The leaves will eventually die back completely and your bulb will be left to re-grow the following spring.
• Hyacinths can re-flower for a few years, but displays may diminish each time.
• Once your pot-grown, indoor flowers have finished, you are best to plant the bulbs out into the garden. You should get some re-flowering the following year but it’s unlikely to be as fulsome as using fresh bulbs.

Where to buy hyacinth bulbs

Jacques Amand International
Farmer Gracy
Kevock Garden Plants
De Jager
Bloms Bulbs
Sarah Raven
Avon Bulbs
Riverside Bulbs
Crocus.co.uk

I love using wildflowers in naturalistic floral arrangements and grow as many as possible in my own garden so that I am free to pick as desired. This arrangement was inspired by a walk down my local country lanes in May where the hedgerows are lined with billowing clouds of cow parsley, Anthriscus sylvestris, exuding a light and airy feel. I’ve combined this iconic umbellifer with several Adiantum ferns and a trio of blues from the borage family to add some sparkle to the mix.

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Pot et fleur how to achieve the look

This handsome wooden crate houses ten chunky soda bottles, but for this display I replaced seven of them with maidenhair ferns in 1L pots and three with cut flowers in glass vases, anchoring the arrangement with a row of Victorian clay ink pots.

A selection of tall, cow parsley stems adds height, and I picked those with the darkest purple stems to match the rose-flushed buds of the Clematis montana. These provide a link to the almost-black stems of the maidenhair fern, whose fresh virescent tones add a sense of depth to the display.

Green alkanet, Pentaglottis sempervirens, and Siberian bugloss, Brunnera macrophylla, provide a drift of bright blue that is subtly enhanced by the chalkier blue of forget-me-not, Myosotis sylvatica. This arrangement will last nearly two weeks in a cool conservatory out of direct sunlight with regular misting and changes of water in the vases. The ferns appreciate high humidity and should be kept well watered during the growing season.

All the flowers used in this display are prolific self-seeders so need careful management to stop them taking over your garden. The hairy leaved alkanet can be found flowering along woodland edges so is happy in part shade while the bugloss makes a great groundcover plant. I cut both hard back in June and July, after their initial flowering to refresh and keep them in check. Myosotis sylvatica also copes well with shade, readily seeding about but is easy to pull out where not required.

Plants in the display

1 Pentaglottis sempervirens A perennial herb. Flowers April to July. 70cm. RHS H6.

2 Anthriscus sylvestris Cow parsley.Flowers April to May. 1.7m. RHS H6.

3 Myosotis sylvatica A short-lived perennial or biennial. April to June. 3cm. RHS H6, USDA 3a-8b.

4 Clematis montana A vigorous deciduous climber. March to June. 12m. RHS H5, USDA 4a-9b.

5 Brunnera macrophylla Siberian bugloss, a hardy perennial. April to July. 40cm. RHS H6, USDA 3a-7b.

6 Adiantum raddianum ‘Fragrantissimum’ Tender evergreen fern with black stems and lime-green leaves. 50cm. USDA 8a-11.

Equipment you need

• Traditionally, ornate punch bowls or soup tureens were used to hold elaborate, pot-et-fleur designs but any container could be adapted for a more contemporary approach including terracotta and ceramic bowls, willow baskets, glass aquariums or metal boxes, but if it’s not water tight, you’ll need to take care to protect the surface it sits on.
• Within the main container you can use any sealed vessel to hold the cut flowers but if it will be partially visible, opt for more attractive containers, such as old ink pots or vintage glass bottles that have a wide base and thin neck. Glass test tubes are a good option but take care when burying them in case they break, and always secure safely.
• A pin holder is an excellent way of accurately securing heavy stems. These discs of metal spikes are much relied on in the practice of ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arranging, lending a more naturalistic feel to an arrangement. I also use several heavy, semi-spherical glass frogs to hold flowers and branch stems. Be sure to attach both of these securely to the base of the vase with floral putty or tape before arranging. A length of wide-gauge chicken wire scrunched into a loose ball will do a similar job. Sharp scissors or secateurs are also essential bits of kit; thorn and leaf strippers are useful too.
• Before you start arranging your cut flowers, snip off the ends of picked stems and remove any foliage that will be below the water level and leave in deep water for up to 24 hours. Regularly topping up water levels or changing the water entirely every couple of days will help the arrangement last longer as air locks and bacteria will quickly cause a stem to wilt.
• Houseplants are easily killed through overwatering, so using hydroleca clay expanded pellets will not only add an attractive finish to the container, they will also absorb extra water, slowly releasing it as the compost dries out. They help maintain a humid microclimate around the plants when wet and even out fluctuations
  in the surrounding temperature. Activated charcoal is another useful addition to the growing medium as it reduces the build up of impurities minimising odours.
• Propriety brands of houseplant potting compost with an open, free-draining mix should be sufficient for most growing needs but you can improve drainage by adding perlite, vermiculite, horticultural sand or grit. A top dressing of decorative gravel, clay pellets or moss will also reduce water loss.
• A slim watering can with a long narrow spout for small spaces is ideal for these displays, but misting is an excellent way to maintain the humidity around plant leaves.

Read more about the art of pot et fleur

Plant subscriptions take the stress out of buying plants. When you buy them as a gift, they provide beautiful plants through the post on a regular basis, and you can even choose for them to come with the perfect pot too.

Why choose a plant subscription?

What better way to reach out to a loved one who lives far away and say “I’m thinking of you” than a beautiful plant subscription? There are plenty of options on the market, whether you’re looking for a short term gift of a few months or something that will last the whole year.

Plant subscriptions have flourished in recent years, and there are currently many options for different types of plants and kits available. From houseplants and cool cacti to seed boxes and an entire ‘garden-in-a-box’, they’ve got your needs covered from budding beginner to horticultural pro.

Some of the providers cater for pet owners by doing pet-friendly houseplant bundles, and others will offer up a low-maintenance option if you’re looking for a subscription for someone who is short on time.

With free delivery, flexible subscription offers and added extras, a plant subscription is among this year’s hottest gifts to be enjoyed throughout the year. Don’t forget to take a look at our favourite flower subscription boxes too if you want to decorate your home with beautiful blooms or treat a loved one.

The best plant subscriptions in 2023

Bloom & Wild

Price: £90 | Rate: Monthly | Subscription Length: 3 months

Bloom & Wild is known for its beautiful letterbox flower subscriptions, conveniently packaged in a slimline box – but the online retailer also sells plants. With this three-month plan, you’ll get a different low-maintenance plant in a colourful pot every 28 days. Also included in the package are useful tips to help you care for the greenery. 

This option would also work well as a present for a green-fingered loved one, as you can download a gift certificate and leave your own special message. Plus, there’s the option to select delivery times for extra convenience. This would be the best option for someone that you know has a busy schedule, as you can nominate delivery days to be at their convenience. 

Buy a plant subscription from bloomandwild.com

Bloombox Club

Price: from £115 | Rate: Monthly | Subscription Length: 3, 6 or 12 months

Buy a plant subscription from bloomboxclub.com

Beards & Daisies

Price: from £30 | Rate: Monthly, Quarterly | Subscription Length: 1, 3, 6 or 12 months

Top on the list for flexibility and variety of subscription options, you can choose from a 1/3/6/12 monthly houseplant subscription service. Plus, they even offer a choice of pet-friendly plants. If you choose to gift this subscription you also have the option of adding on a free handwritten card. Beards & Daises have a brilliant eco-friendly ethos at the heart of the company and their packaging is sustainable and 95% is biodegradable.

Buy a plant subscription from beardsanddaisies.co.uk

Leaf Envy

Price: from £29.69 | Rate: Monthly | Subscription Length: 3, 6 or 12 months

Leaf Envy provide a special plant and fitted pot with every order. From classic plants to more exotic and bold varieties – they have you covered. Offering great flexibility with their subscription options, you can even pause deliveries for a month if you need to (after the first 3). They also have a resident online Plant Doctor to answer all your plant queries! This sustainable brand even plant a tree for every order they receive. Plus, they have a brilliant option for gifting; you can print off a Leaf Envy Gift Certificate to pop in with your order.

Buy a plant subscription from leafenvy.co.uk.

The Urban Botanist – at Not On The High Street

Price: £150 | Rate: Monthly | Subscription Length: 6 months

Offering a 6 month subscription service, you can choose from 3 options; cacti, succulent or ‘surprise me’. Perfect for avid cacti and succulent fans, this colourful range of quirky house plants would make a great gift. Plus, it comes with a planter or terranium each month and a mini succulent as a gift, so you’re all ready to go! This will provide an instant boost of colour and fun to a living room or study.

Buy a plant subscription from notonthehighstreet.com/theurbanbotanist

Barry’s Cactus Club

Price: from £15 | Rate: Monthly | Subscription Length: Rolling, 3 or 12 months

Barry’s Cactus Club is perfect for that quirky someone with a penchant for bold cacti. It’s simple to sign up; you choose your length of subscription, and they add a mini cactus or succulent, a stunning pot and a collector card with care instructions and some fun facts to every order. Gift a one-off box for just £15, or sign up to 3 months or a year. You can also collect reward points when you join the club. Look out for a few surprise extras in each box!

This is a great one for the forgetful among us, as if you choose a gift subscription with Barry’s Cactus Club it won’t auto-renew, so you won’t be caught out and accidentally give a double gift!

Buy a plant subscription from barryscactusclub.com.

Seed Pantry

Price: from £42 | Rate: Monthly | Subscription Length: 3, 6 or 12 months

Give the gift of a Seed Pantry box subscription! It makes a perfect addition to a budding gardener’s green collection for the upcoming season. As each box comes with a selection of seeds, bulbs and plants based upon the current season you can plan ahead what to plant and sow in the coming weeks and months. Each thoughtful collection also comes complete with handy ‘grow how’ guides.

Buy a plant subscription from seedpantry.co.uk.

Plants by Post

Price: from £25 | Rate: Every 1,2,3,4,5,6 months | Subscription Length: Rolling

This gift subscription from Plants by Post is the ultimate choice for someone who loves to spend time outdoors in their garden. In each box there will be 6 hand-selected seasonal plants with care instructions. There is also an option to add compost with each delivery, perfect for someone who gardens in containers. It is also an excellent option when it comes to flexibility as you can pause or cancel anytime, within 72 hours of dispatch. They also offer a houseplant subscription.

Buy a plant subscription from Plants by Post

For more ideas for gifts for plant lovers, take a look at our gift guide.

When planning house plant arrangements, keep plants with similar light requirements together. These exotics, which we cultivate in the conservatory and bring into the house when they reach their prime, have been positioned to take advantage of the intermediate morning light next to a sitting room window.

How to arrange this house plant display

This position avoids the intense midday sunshine that may scorch the foliage. It’s a temporary display, and when the plants begin to look jaded they are returned to the conservatory and replacements found. The orchids take this upheaval in their stride, as do the ferns, and require little more than a light daily misting.

It is vital to avoid crowding them too closely together, otherwise, the display can look congested. Position the larger plants first, work from the back to the front, and try to consider the appearance of both flowers and foliage.

The house plants in this display

Sudamerlycaste ‘Archirondel’

A hybrid orchid that is a cross between Sudamerlycaste costata and Sudamerlycaste ariasii and has waxy, hooded, white flowers and long, plicate, arching leaves. Needs heat, shade and humidity. 50cm.

Davallia solida var. fejeensis

Known as the rabbit’s foot fern for the soft, scale-covered rhizomes from which finely divided fronds are produced. It forms a much larger plant in tropical countries. 1m. RHS H1C, USDA 10a-12.

Find Davallia solida var. fejeensis through the RHS

Brassia hybrid

Brassias originally hail from the tropical Americas, and are epiphytic. This punchy, purple-flowered hybrid is an easy-to-cultivate orchid for a bathroom or kitchen windowsill. 50cm.

Pteris parkeri

An easy and attractive little fern that has busy, variegated attractive foliage. It is a half-hardy perennial and the small pinnate fronds are evergreen.30cm. AGM. RHS H1C.

Find Pteris parkeri through the RHS

Begonia ‘Erythrophylla’

A very smart tender perennial that makes large, round, lustrous, copper-green foliage. The leaves are loosely arranged and held on long, slender, light-green petioles. 40cm. AGM. RHS H1B, USDA 9b-11

Buy Begonia ‘Erythrophylla’ from Etsy

Brugmansia suaveolens

The snowy angel’s trumpet is a fast-growing tender shrub that produces large leaves and masses of trumpet-shaped, pendent, white flowers. The blooms are night-scented. 4m. AGM. RHS H1C, USDA 8a-10b.

Brassia Edvah Loo gx ‘Vera Cruz’

This wonderful primary hybrid orchid has very showy spidery blooms in yellow and chartreuse with dark maroon spots on long, arching stems. 50cm.

Find Brassia Edvah Loo gx ‘Vera Cruz’ through the RHS

Paphiopedilum Leeanum gx

An easy-to-cultivate, hybrid lady slipper orchid that has large flowers. Its slipper, or labellum, is dark burgundy and contrasts beautifully with the overhanging white hood. 30cm. AGM.

Find Paphiopedilum Leeanum gx through the RHS

Begonia x albopicta

Known as the guinea-wing begonia, this cane type begonia grows into an upright plant that is decked with wonderful spotted, shield-shaped leaves. It forms trusses of small, white flowers. 60cm.

Buy Begonia x albopicta from Dibleys

Where to buy

• Burnham Orchids Forches Cross, Newton Abbot, Devon TQ12 6PZ, Orchid specialist that offers mail order and is open Monday to Friday, 10am-3pm.
• Cross Common Nursery The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7PD, Offers wide range of exotic plants. Mostly mail order, but visitors are welcome if they telephone first.
• Dibleys Nurseries Llanelidan, Ruthin, Denbighshire LL15 2LG, Specialist in indoor plants, with a good range of exotics, mail order only.
• Wisley Plant Centre RHS Garden Wisley, Woking, Surrey GU23 6QB, Offers good range of indoor plants. Open Monday-Saturday, 9.30am-5.30pm; Sunday, 11am-5pm.

Plants can bring life and purer air into our homes – but they probably won’t look their best without a nice pot to sit in. From rustic terracotta containers to hanging rattan planters and self-watering glass bowls, there’s a huge variety of different styles available. 

Keep reading to find some of the best indoor pots on the market right now. We’ve rounded up 12 of our favourites, and the selection includes options to suit a range of different home styles, from modern, eye-catching pots to traditional ceramic planters.

You may also like

• How to grow the house plant Peperomia
• Succulent pot houseplant display for winter
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Best indoor pots to buy

Bergs Potter Plant Pot

For a traditional look, try one of these smart pots. They come in Emerald Green or Yellow Amber, with a glossy hand-applied glaze. You can choose the dimensions to suit your space, as these pots come in two sizes: 14cm(H)x16cm(W) or 16cm(H)x18cm(W).

LSA Canopy Recycled Self-Watering Planter

A low-maintenance and visually striking choice, the LSA Canopy self-watering planter has a cotton wick leading up from a water chamber at the bottom to keep the soil above moist. The developers created it in partnership with the Eden Project, and it’s made from 100% recycled glass and boxed in recycled and recyclable packaging.

Marquis & Dawe Round Rattan Zinc Lined Planter

An attractive rattan planter is a great choice for any space with rustic or country style. This one is handmade by Marquis & Dawe, and comes complete with a zinc insert to keep moisture inside. It has a diameter of 43cm, but it’s relatively shallow, at 16.5cm, so it would make a fantastic centrepiece on a coffee or dining table.

Oliver Bonas Gold Metal & Mango Wood Plant Pot Large

Adding warmth to a room is easy with this golden plant pot from Oliver Bonas. With a clean and minimal design, it has a hammered aluminium planter and sits on lightly-stained mango wood legs.

This pot is 27cm tall and 26cm across, so it should be able to accommodate large plants and small trees.

XLBoom O-collection Planter, Black, Large

With its hoop-shaped design, this planter from XLBoom would make a simple yet eye-catching addition to any home. The top of the hoop reaches 60cm in height, and the whole planter has a depth of 30cm.

If black isn’t your ideal choice, why not opt for the white version?

Withington Pot

• Buy now from Garden Trading (£12.00)

If you love homeware with a rustic, antique-y look, you might like the Withington range of pots. Reminiscent of vintage marmalade jars, they have a simple yet sturdy construction. They’re also handmade, and finished with a crackle glaze with elements of white, grey, brown and blue.

You’ll get a choice of three sizes: 10cm, 12.5cm or 15.5cm in height.

Large Terracotta Plant Pot

• Buy now from H&M (£12.99)

Suitable for use both indoors and outdoors, this large plant pot is a versatile planter to keep at home. It’s made in Portugal entirely from terracotta, and it’s finished with neutral colouring, so it should fit nicely into most décor schemes.

This pot is 21.8cm tall, but there’s also a smaller option, which has a height of just 16cm.

Layered Cement Planter

• Buy now from Cox & Cox (£20.00)

Characterised by its neutral colour tone and intricately layered cement finish, this pot will add subtle texture to a room. It has a height of 12cm and a diameter of 16cm, so it’s a good size for most house plants, but its bowl-like shape should look particularly good with leafy and trailing varieties.

Set of Three Terracotta Pots in Basket

• Buy now from Graham & Green (£19.95)

Another great option for homes with a vintage aesthetic is this set of three rustic terracotta pots. They’re held together neatly with an attractive wire structure, reaching a total length of 37cm. Meanwhile, each individual pot can hold up to 0.3L of soil.

Woven Hanging Plant Pot

• Buy now from Garden Trading (£8.00)

You can draw the eye up in any room with beautiful hanging planters like this one from Garden Trading. It’s constructed with seagrass, but there are two other similar styles made from jute available – and all have an internal PVC lining to contain any water drips.

Ferns and trailing plants look especially great in hanging pots, creating a rural, breezy look in your home.

Two Textured Standing Planters

• Buy now from Cox & Cox (£175.00)

If you’re after something special, this pair of burnished gold planters might be the ideal choice. They’re constructed from aluminium and have little tripod legs underneath to keep them off the ground.

The set comes with a small pot, reaching 25cm in height, and a larger planter, which is 29.5cm tall.

H&M Large Mango Wood Plant Pot

• Buy now from H&M (£29.99)

H&M’s 100% wood plant pot brings warm tones, and it would look just as good in modern, minimalistic décor schemes as it would with traditional and neutral styles. It reaches 18cm in height, so it’s a good size to add to most table tops and furniture items.

Peperomias are not wildly thrilling, but they do have a certain flair,’ writes Tovah Martin in her book The Unexpected Houseplant. Talk about damning with faint praise. She does have a point. Peperomias lack the imposing physicality of a 3m Monstera deliciosa embracing a moss pole, or the peacock patterning of a colourful Calathea, but I adore them for the sheer variety of leaf textures and for their diminutive size. For those without floor space for expansive specimens, peperomias are compact enough to house a sizeable collection on a modest shelving unit or windowsill.

You may also like

• The rise and rise of the house plant
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How to care for peperomia

The different types of peperomia

Sally Williams, who holds the National Collection of Peperomia, has a plant room packed with 500 peperomias to tend while her Peak District garden is hidden under a freezing, white blanket of snow. There are familiars, such as the radiator plant (Peperomia caperata), which has crinkled leaves like toes after a long bath, and the watermelon peperomia (Peperomia argyreia) with heart-shaped glossy leaves draped in silver stripes, but I’m drawn to some rarities, too. One with foliage the colour and texture of toad skin is labelled Peperomia hutchisonii, while lifting a misty bell jar reveals a mass of minute leaves strung on the thread-like stems of Peperomia bangroana.

Where are peperomia from?

Sally’s collection demonstrates the diversity and scale of the Peperomia clan. Attempt to discover something seemingly simple, such as how many species are in the genus, and the answer varies from 1,300 to 1,600. Matt Candeias, a botanist and fellow Peperomia lover, tells me that Peperomia is an ancient group of plants that has evolved to thrive in a wide range of environments around the world, with concentrations in Central and South America and in Africa. Why does all this matter to you and me, tending a cluster of watermelon leaves or untangling the stems of a string of turtles (Peperomia prostrata)? Finding out about where your Peperomia hails from helps inform how you care for it.

Best conditions for Peperomia

The vast majority of peperomias you’ll find unhelpfully labelled merely as ‘foliage plant’ in your local supermarket or DIY store grow as epiphytes in rainforests, clinging to clefts in a tree where they enjoy humid air and dappled light. These – including rosette types, such as the watermelon peperomia, and trailers, such as the cupid peperomia (Peperomia nitida) – have modest rootballs and store water in their fleshy stems and leaves. Root rot is the peperomia’s number one enemy: know this, and you’ll find them among the most easy-going and undemanding houseplants you can grow.

How to care for Peperomia

Best soil for Peperomia

Sally raises her plants in terracotta pots, planted in an airy mix of two parts peat-free, general-purpose potting mix, one part orchid bark and one part perlite.

How often to water Peperomia

Sally also keeps the air moist by misting – watering just once a month. Succulent species, such as Peperomia columella, Peperomia ferreyrae and the toadlike Peperomia hutchisonii, generally hail from high altitudes in South America, particularly Peru, adapting to arid conditions and dry air by folding their leaves in half like a taco when water is in short supply: these prefer an even more free-draining, gritty mix and will thrive in a sunny, south-facing window. Rare trailing species, such as Peperomia bangroana, require really high humidity and do best creeping around in a shady, sealed terrarium.

How to propagate Peperomia

The key to successful Peperomia propagation is to know whether your specimen will root from a section of stem, a leaf petiole cutting or even, miraculously – from a section of leaf. The general rule is that rosette-forming types will propagate from a leaf petiole cutting, while trailing peperomias will grow roots from a length of stem.

1. Take a clear plastic pot with a tight fitting lid – a recycled hummus pot is ideal.
2. Place a trickle of water so the bottom is just covered and then add the leaf or section of stem, curling it around the edges of the pot if necessary.
3. Place the lid on and leave on a bright windowsill out of direct sun.
4. Check every week until roots and shoots have appeared, then pot up into gritty compost.

This method works for most peperomias except succulent types such as Peperomia columella, which can be rooted straight into gritty compost instead.