Mulching should be on every gardener’s mind. An integral and fundamental part of gardening, mulching keeps plants looking beautiful and productive through the year. For many it’s a passion that I’d wager rivals even the joy of planting. But the debate about the specifics of mulching is endless: from the perfect mulching depth to the right compost mixture for mulch.

• Our guide to everything you need for composting
• How to make foliar sprays
• Composting using the bokashi and worm methods

What is mulching?

In nature mulch comes from fallen leaves, plant debris and passing animals, and when we mulch in the garden we aim to recreate that cycle. However, the term mulch can be used to describe any material a gardener chooses to cover the soil with, such as compost, rotted manure, cardboard or even seaweed. Perhaps surprisingly, it is only recently that we’ve started to fully understand the sustainable and ecological benefits of mulching.

Why should we mulch?

It helps the soil

To understand the benefit of mulching we first must look at the soil. Soil is endlessly fascinating with a complex ecosystem and expanse that’s enough to rival our own universe. Under the microscope, soil is revealed as a place both beguiling and terrifying with an ‘eat or be eaten’ philosophy, and it’s that microbe eco-system that is one of the chief reasons we mulch; providing food and nutrients.

Bugs and beasties such as worms suck the mulch into the depths of the soil where microbes then begin to break it down. These microbes become swollen with nutrients like small bags of fertiliser that attract other hungry microbial predators and the waste from this digestion is then drawn up by the plant to ensure healthy growth. In essence we mulch to feed soil microbes, not the plant directly.

All this activity from worm tunnels, material shredding and microbe hunting develops good soil structure that allows enough water and oxygen to infiltrate the soil and limits the negative impacts from compaction, which can lead to anaerobic conditions, aiding plant diseases and pathogens.

Retaining water

Mulch also allows for beneficial moisture retention helping plants through hot summers, limiting the need for constant irrigation. While reducing soil erosion and wash off from excessive rain will help keep the soil protected from the frost and sun.

Mulching and weeds

Mulch also has an important part to play in weed suppression. Adding mulch will help smother early spring weed germination and allow you to avoid the mad rush of spring growth. It will keep your garden looking neat and tidy by covering messiness that winter can bring.

How to make mulch

The mulch you use really comes down to preference and accessibility. It must be made from good materials and in the correct way so as not to transfer weed seeds or disease. Being cost effective is also a bonus.

The best mulch for garden borders

Compost

A good garden compost is one of the best forms of mulch for plant and soil health and has been proven many times over. One chief benefit is that good compost contains a rich diversity of creatures, microbes and fungi that aid all soil health, comparable to a woodland floor. However, the usual dilemma is not being able to create enough for the size of the garden. Local council composts are a great resource and can be bought in bulk for a relatively cheap price, solving the quantity dilemma. They work even better when mixed with your own garden compost to help build microbe diversity. An added benefit is that you are also helping recycle household waste.

Animal manure

Rotted animal manures are also a good mulching substitute as these can be brought in bulk. But they can lack the microbial and nutrient diversity of compost, depending how long they have been allowed to break down and varies depending on the type of animal. Therefore it is important to research the source of the manure and the type of farming it has comes from.

Mulching with leaves, straw or cardboard

If you don’t have access compost or manure, there are many ways to mulch. Shredding and leaving garden debris can work effectively or simply gather up all your garden leave – but always be wary of slugs when using leaves or straw. Cardboard can also be placed over the soil but works best with annual or vegetable beds. It makes an amazing weed suppressant and works better when compost is applied over the top.

Woodchip mulching

Woodchip should only be used when the source is guaranteed to avoid acid imbalance or toxicity from certain trees, or by importing nasty chemicals used in timber treatment. If you can find a good sustainable wood source it is still required to be mixed with compost and broken down to balance the carbon : nitrogen balance. I find woodchip best used as a carbon source when making compost.

• Discover more about worm composting and bokashi

How to mulch

When to mulch?

Once you have chosen your desired mulch the next step is application. Simply spread it in late autumn/early winter or early spring.

How deep should you mulch?

Spread your mulch at a maximum of 2.5-5cm in depth. However, if weed suppression is the primary role then 7.5cm is more suitable but beware: anything more can end up being wasted or could even cause further damage to certain plants and the soil.

How to spread mulch?

For those of us that have to walk over the soil to mulch, put down wooden boards to walk on to reduce compaction, and never dig it in unless you have a real compaction problem. Digging will only destroy all the structure you are trying to create. Simply allow all the creatures living in your soil to do the work for you while you sit back and wait in anticipation for the gardening year ahead.

If you’re looking for a mulching lawnmower, here’s our round up of the best. 

Plants that flower during the winter should be treasured far more than those that are part of the chorus of high summer. At the start of winter, one of the moments I look forward to is seeing the first few tentative flowers on the Clematis cirrhosa that covers the woodshed. I know that by January the plant will be a clematis blanket of creamy-yellow bells.

Clematis cirrhosa is one of several winter-flowering, evergreen and semi-evergreen clematis that, although they have no formal botanical grouping, all flower during the winter and early spring. With many to choose from, we should never be short of the sparkle and joy of winter flowers.

Here are the best winter-flowering clematis

Don’t miss our focus on Clematis montana, which late-flowering clematis to choose and how to grow herbaceous clematis.

Pruning early clematis

Early flowering clematis flower on growth made the previous year, so wait until they have finished flowering before doing any pruning. They do not need routine pruning but you can tidy them up if necessary.

After three or four years, Clematis armandii and Clematis cirrhosa may develop woody, bird’s nest growth. Cut back about one third of the plant to the base and the repeat the process on the other two thirds in subsequent years.

Clematis ‘Early Sensation’ and the cartmanii hybrids produce so many flowers that they often exhaust themselves and generae little in the way of new growth. To keep the plants vigorous and healthy, prune them in two stages:

• Trim them immediately after flowering, to remove the dying flower heads and prevent any energy being lost in seed production.
• At the end of May, cut the whole back to about 50cm from the ground, to encourage new growth and prevent the plant becoming bare and woody at the base.

Read our expert guide to pruning clematis.

The best winter flowering clematis for the garden

A rare, vigorous plant that in a sheltered site can grow to 4m tall. The sweetly scented flowers are followed by silver seed heads. The main flush of flowers is during the early spring but in mild areas a few brave flowers start to appear still in winter, in January. 4m x 4m.

Buy Clematis paniculata seeds from Chiltern Seeds

First raised in the 1970s, this winter-flowering clematis cultivar has proved to be a robust and undemanding plant that blooms from November to March. The flowers have a green tinge when they first open and fade to a creamy white with age. 4m x 1.5m.

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Wisley Cream’ from Crocus

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Wisley Cream’ from You Garden

Dark pink speckles on the inside of the flower glow through to the outside of the petals, giving the whole flower a pink blush. This winter-flowering clematis cultivar blooms between October and February. 4m x 1.5m.

Buy Clematis cirrhosa var. purpurascens ‘Freckles’ from Crocus

Buy Clematis cirrhosa var. purpurascens ‘Freckles’ from Thompson & Morgan

The most floriferous winter Clematis cirrhosa, which flowers from December to March. The tepals are longer and narrower than the species. The name refers to a part of Morocco where seed of the original plant was collected during the 1980s. 4m x 1.5m.

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Ourika Valley’ from Primrose

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Ourika Valley’ from Thorncroft Clematis

The first Clematis cirrhosa cultivar to start flowering, in the autumn. Creamy yellow buds open to flowers that fade from cream to white with age. Reputedly the hardiest winter flowering Clematis cirrhosa, thriving even in cold parts of the North. 5m x 2m.

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Jingle Bells’ from Crocus

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Jingle Bells’ from Primrose

Buy Clematis cirrhosa ‘Jingle Bells’ from Hayloft

From the island of Menorca, this winter-flowering clematis is covered with speckled, lemon-scented bells from November to March. In very cold weather the ferny foliage turns bronze and purple. Grown in Britain since the 18th century, it received an RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1993. 2.5m x 1.5m.

Buy Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica from Crocus

Late winter-flowering clematis cultivars

This dwarf New Zealand hybrid bears small buds like green berries for weeks. They begin to flower, sparsely, from January, then profusely from March to May. The leaves are fern-like and grow from thin, wiry stems. It’s perfect for a large pot. 1m x 1m.

Buy Clematis ‘Pixie’ from You Garden

Buy Clematis ‘Pixie’ from Crocus

Buy Clematis ‘Pixie’ from Gardening Express

This lives up to its name, with masses of white flowers, up to 6cm across, from February to April. The dark leaves are like parsley and the purple stems are a bonus after flowering. This winter flowering clematis holds an RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2.5m x 1.5m.

Buy Clematis x cartmanii ‘Avalanche’ from Thompson & Morgan

Buy Clematis x cartmanii ‘Avalanche’ from Van Meuwen

Buy Clematis x cartmanii ‘Avalanche’ from Primrose

The flowers are slightly larger than the species, but just as sweetly scented. The new leaves have roughly toothed edges, but this disappears as the plant matures. Flowers from January, and more profusely from early spring. 9m x 2m.

The buds of this plant dangle but turn up as the flowers open, from February to April. The base of the petals is apple green, making a crisp contrast with the dark, waxy non-clinging foliage. 2m x 2m.

Buy Clematis ‘Early Sensation’ from Crocus

Buy Clematis ‘Early Sensation’ from Thompson & Morgan

Buy Clematis ‘Early Sensation’ from Primrose

Fat buds, full of promise, start to appear in January and grow like bunches of grapes for several weeks until opening. The flowers are as close as you can get to a buttercup, a relative in the Ranunculaceae family. 1.8m x 50cm.

Buy Clematis x cartmanii ‘Joe’ from Crocus

Buy Clematis x cartmanii ‘Joe’ from You Garden

Buy Clematis x cartmanii ‘Joe’ from Primrose 

Big, leathery leaves emerge copper-coloured, maturing to a shiny green. Clusters of pink-tinged buds open to white flowers from February to May. The perfume from hundreds of these winter-flowering clematis flowers on mature plants can be powerful. 5m x 3m.

Buy Clematis armandii from Crocus

Buy Clematis armandii from Thompson & Morgan

Buy Clematis armandii from Gardening Express

This tender species is usually in flower in December and is as jolly as any Christmas decoration. The green, bean-shaped buds open to reveal flowers with dangling purple stamens. In most parts of the country this species needs the comfort of a cold greenhouse or conservatory. 3m x 1.5m.

Buy Clematis napaulensis from Suttons

Buy Clematis napaulensis from Thompson & Morgan

Buy Clematis napaulensis from Crocus

Another tender New Zealand hybrid, this winter-flowering clematis needs winter protection, so is best grown in a conservatory or cold glasshouse. It’s a compact, scrambling plant that bears strongly citrus-scented flowers from February to April. 1m x 1m.

How to grow winter flowering clematis

Hardiness

Clematis x cartmanii and associated hybrids were originally thought too tender to grow outdoors in Britain. In fact winter-flowering clematis will thrive in sheltered places that do not drop below -5°C during the winter, as long as they are protected from cold, drying winds. In colder areas, grow in pots in cool greenhouses or conservatories.

Cold winds are also the enemy of Clematis armandii so choose a sheltered spot in sun or part-shade.

Where to plant winter flowering clematis

In general, winter-flowering clematis prefer moist conditions but Clematis cirrhosa must be kept dry, especially during the winter. An ideal place to plant it is on a south or west-facing house wall, where the eaves of the roof protect the soil from heavy downpours.

Clematis need rich, moist soil with a cool root-run, so plant close to the base of perennials or shrubs to shade the soil. Clematis armandii needs to be well fed, so apply a generous mulch of compost every autumn.

Plant supports

Clematis cirrhosa will need a plant support at first – tie the stems in to 1m canes. As it becomes established it will twine itself around wires, posts or trellis. Clematis x cartmanii hybrids are not twining plants so they are unable to support themselves when grown as climbers. They can be left to sprawl along the ground or to flow over the edge of pots.

How and when to prune winter-flowering clematis

How to prune Clematis armandii and Clematis cirrhosa

Clematis armandii and Clematis cirrhosa are vigorous plants that need regular pruning to be kept under control.

• They flower on growth made the previous year, so wait until they have finished flowering before doing any pruning.
• Cut back growth to about 1m below the area you want the plant to cover.
• After three or four years both Clematis armandii and Clematis cirrhosa may develop dense, woody ‘bird’s nest’ growth. Cut back about one third of the plant to the base and repeat the process on the other two thirds in subsequent years.

How to prune Clematis ‘Early Sensation’ and Clematis x cartmanii

Clematis ‘Early Sensation’ and the cartmanii hybrids produce so many flowers that they often exhaust themselves and generate little in the way of new growth. To keep the plants vigorous and healthy, prune them in two stages:

• Trim clematis immediately after the flowers have finished, to remove the dying flower heads and prevent any energy being lost in seed production.
• At the end of May, cut the whole plant back to about 50cm from the soil, to encourage new growth and prevent the plant from becoming bare and woody at the base.

How to prune Clematis paniculata

Clematis paniculata tends to be spindly, but looks better with bushy growth.

• For a few years after planting, cut back to 60cm from the ground.
• Once it has become bushy, allow it to grow into the size you want and then trim it back each year after flowering.

Don’t miss our pruning guide on how to prune climbing plants.

The glow of a fire pit or wood burner is a welcome sight during the winter months. The flickering flames, the cracking and popping of burning bark and the delightful smell of woodsmoke all help to forget the gloomy darkness outside. To help you prepare for the months ahead, we’ve picked the best wood for burning and give tips for stacking your log pile and building the perfect fire. For more, head to our piece on the best tools to chop kindling. and don’t miss our round up of the best log stores.

Here’s our guide to the best wood for wood burners

The best wood for wood burners

Ash

Ash tree wood produces a steady flame in fires with a good heat and burns well even when green. It will burn successfully on its own, so does not need to be burned in a mix of different species. Perfect wood for a wood burning stove or wood burner too. Traditionally said to be the best wood for burning.

Oak

Oak is the slowest wood to season, at approximately 2.5cm a year and ideally should be seasoned for a minimum of two years. Because of its density, it is a wood that’s slow to burn as firewood and is best used in a mix of faster-burning logs. This wood can help to keep the fire burning at night if required.

Birch

Birch makes excellent firewood for burning on a wood burner, stove or in an open fire. This wood produces a good heat, although it burns relatively quickly, so in a fire, it’s best to use it in a mix of slower-burning woods, such as elm or oak. Birch will burn unseasoned although the sap can cause a build up of deposits in the flue. The bark can be peeled off and used as a natural firelighter for wood or log burners.

Beech

Beech is a superb wood for burning, although it has a high water content so needs to be dried well; ideally, it should be seasoned for three years before use. It does not need to be burned in a mix and can be burned in a wood burning stove too.

Cherry

Cherry wood burns slowly with a good heat output in a fire or wood burning stove and gives off a lovely aroma. The logs need to be well seasoned, although strips of the bark can also be used as natural firelighters for your log burner or fire.

Sycamore

Sycamore burns well in a fire when seasoned with a moderate heat output. It seasons very quickly, usually within just one year and is one of the best woods for burning. This tree can be burned on a wood burner, stove or open fire as necessary.

How to stack firewood

• Keep your wood and logs as dry as possible
  The trick here is to do everything you can to keep them from getting wet or damp. Wet or damp logs will either never burn or will produce excess smoke that will line and clog your flue or – worse – escape into your room. Covering your stack of logs outside with a simple hard cover – a panel of wood propped up at both ends – will keep the rain off and still allow air to circulate around them and dry them out.
• Never stack your logs on the ground
  Your firewood needs constant air circulation to stay dry and combustable. An old wooden pallet makes an ideal base – something with plenty of gaps to keep that air moving.
• Make sure your wood burning logs are under cover
  But open on at least one side. This is particularly important if you use polythene to cover your logs as they need to breathe to avoid sweating. If you’re keeping them indoors you may want to invest in a log holder or similar indoor storage.
• When building the wood stack
  Stacking wood is like dry stone walling – there’s a knack to it that you just get better at with practice! Start at the outer edge, with a supporting wall or structure, and work inwards. Work on keeping the logs level – ie of consistent size side by side, or at least filling in the gaps with smaller logs as you go – and avoid any sloping in or out. Corners can be created with one layer being laid at 90 degrees to the next, similar to the brickwork on the corner of a house.

How to make a fire in your wood burning stove, log burner or open fire

Make sure your logs are dry and fully seasoned before you bring them indoors and use a good mix of species, as they will burn at different rates. Having a plentiful supply of components to hand is essential, especially on a cold, wet night. Keep a basket full of kindling wood close to the fire so that it’s ready for use at a moment’s notice.

And we’ve all wanted a real fire but haven’t bothered building one as we’ve not the time or can’t bear the trouble. Why not build your fire when you have a spare moment then it’ll be ready to go in an instant whenever you need it?

Here are our tips for how to light a fire.

• Soft flammable foundations
  Start with a good layer of loosely rolled balls of newspaper. Don’t toss on sheets. Scrumple each individually. That way the air can get in around them. Go for as fibrous a paper as possible – i.e. uncoated non-glossy newspaper. Avoid weekend supplements as many seem to be almost fireproof…
• Add a generous handful of kindling
  It’s easy to skimp here. You need A LOT in order to be able to toss on a leisurely larger log later. Skimp on the kindling – dry small splinters of wood to get the fire going – and you’ll be doing more tending than enjoying. Start with small pieces first and larger pieces last. Don’t lay them horizontally. Try to stack the pieces vertically on end – like a tee-pee – and don’t pack them too tightly.
• Finish with the logs
  If your burner or fireplace is big enough go ahead and add the first of your logs too. The first to go on should be smaller in size, ending with the largest on top. Your goal is to create a bed of embers that’ll hot enough to ignite larger logs as you add them one by one. Time your tending right and you’ll keep a fire going all night without needing to fuss around it.
• Light the paper and enjoy!
  Place a match (or lighter etc) to the paper in as many places as you can for maximum chance that at least one ignition point will take a hold. If you’ve followed the instructions above then your fire roar into life after a minute or two. Don’t get impatient and disturb your pile or you’ll allow the built up heat to escape. Give it your stack a blow or two at the base if you’re seeing burning edges but no flames and it’ll soon burst into life. Good luck!

Hebes are a genus of about 90 species of evergreen, long-flowering shrubs, some with coloured foliage that tend to form dense hummocks. Hebes were originally classified as species of Veronica, and more recent analysis has shown them to indeed be part of the Veronica genus where they may soon be moved back.

Watch how to grow hebe

When does hebe flower?

Most hebes originate in New Zealand with a few species scattered around the southern hemisphere. A hebe’s flowering period is from midsummer to mid autumn, with most flowering between June and September.

A hebe can grow between 40cm to 1.5m, and most hebes prefer poor, well-drained soil. They will withstand high winds and salt spray. Although some hebe plants are hardy, others can suffer from frost damage to new shoots. Most have a hardiness rating of RHS H3 or RHS H4 and are suitable for gardens in USDA zones 8a to 10b.

Jump to

• When to prune hebe
• How to take hebe cuttings
• The best soil for hebe
• Why plant hebe?
• The best hebe plants for your garden

Hebe: how to care for, prune and grow hebe

When to prune hebe

A light, annual pruning will keep the neat, compact shape of hebe plants and ensure that they flower well. Immediately after they have finished flowering simply cut out the dead hebe flowers. After a harsh winter some stems may have been burnt by frost. Inspect your hebe at the end of March and prune away any damaged stems, cutting back to a live bud. I have seen small-leaved hebes tightly clipped into balls as an alternative to box. This looks attractive but does mean that the flowers are sacrificed.

How to take hebe cuttings

It is ironic that a plant named for the Greek goddess of youth should be short-lived. Although some hebes will still be looking good after a decade or so, most will perform at their best for a shorter time and then need to be replaced. A hebe is one of the easiest shrubs to take cuttings from, so rather than buying a replacement plant, have a go at propagating your own hebe. Begin the process as soon as your hebe starts to look sad, and by the time you need to remove it you will have a new plant ready.

Cuttings can be taken from mid July until early September. Using sharp secateurs, cut off stems of the current season’s growth that are about 15-20cm long. Immediately pop these into a plastic bag and keep them in the shade until you are indoors and ready to pot them.

Fill your containers with a proprietary cuttings compost or a mix of 50 per cent compost and 50 per cent horticultural grit, then water the pot and allow it to drain. A 9cm pot will take three or four hebe cuttings. Prepare the cuttings by shortening them to about 10-15cm long, cutting just below the point where a set of leaves is growing. Remove the lower leaves and snip off the tip of the hebe cutting. Push the cutting into the compost, close to the edge of the pot.

If you want belt-and-braces security, you can dip the end of the hebe cutting in hormone rooting powder or rooting gel. If you have a greenhouse or cold frame, store the cuttings there, otherwise cover the pot and cuttings with a plastic bag in a light, warm place away from direct sunlight. Regularly remove the bag to reduce the humidity around the cuttings. By the following spring, the cuttings will have rooted and can be transplanted into individual pots filled with a loam-based potting compost.

You may also like

• The best garden erythroniums
• How to care for and plant garden corydalis
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The best soil for hebe

Hebe plants need poor, well-drained soil in an open, sunny situation. Ignore the usual advice to incorporate compost when you plant shrubs and don’t give them an annual feed. Too rich a soil will encourage weak, lax growth for your hebe that will be susceptible to frost damage. If you have heavy soil, digging lots of horticultural grit into the area before you plant will increase the likelihood of your hebe thriving. Hebes do not like cold wind, so try to plant them in a sheltered area.

Why plant hebe?

On paper, hebe plants have a lot going for them – they are long flowering, easy to grow, and evergreen. Nevertheless, despite their many qualities, they are not in fashion. Why this should be is rather puzzling; surely they deserve more recognition.

Part of the reason might be that some designers have not yet found a place for neat domes of a hebe in the naturalistic froth of perennials and grasses that currently dominates their work. Moreover, they have a reputation for being short-lived. There are signs, however, that the tide is starting to turn in the favour of hebe plants as dynamic breeders are starting to produce new cultivars, often with notable foliage.

Most hebes form hummocks that can, with a little imagination, be used in many garden settings. Some can be clipped into neat domes that are at ease among the clean lines of contemporary gardens. I have seen the solidity of groups of dwarf hebes looking wonderful as a background to clouds of Sporobolus heterolepis. It is a combination that would work well with other grasses and airy perennials. Low hedges of hebe are often used as a windbreak in exposed coastal gardens and the same planting could be used to protect and enclose herbaceous plantings in inland gardens. Some of the newer introductions have been specifically bred for pots and containers and for small, urban gardens. It remains to be seen whether hebes become sought after but a plant that is so versatile and so beautiful should nevertheless be seriously considered in any garden.

The best hebe plants for your garden

Hebe ‘Pascal’

A hebe that is a truly spectacular sight during the winter when the narrow, lance-shaped leaves turn a vibrant burgundy colour. During the summer the foliage is apple-green and the flowers are a delicate pale blue. 50cm. AGM*. RHS H4†.

Buy Hebe Pascal from Crocus

Buy Hebe Pascal from the RHS

Buy Hebe Pascal from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe ‘Northern Lights’

A striking hebe plant launched two years ago that has variegated foliage comprising oval, grey-green leaves with wide, cream margins. The new growth on this hebe has dark stems and pink-edged leaves, which complement the purple flowers. 1m. RHS H3.

Find out more about Hebe Northern Lights at the RHS

Hebe ‘Sparkling Sapphires’

This variegated hebe is a recent introduction. The young leaves have a pale margin that ages to a creamy yellow in May and June. A floriferous plant that has masses of pale-blue blooms. 50cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Sparkling Sapphires from the RHS

Buy Hebe Sparkling Sapphires from Garden Beauty

Hebe buxifolia ‘Nana’

A dense, rounded hebe shrub with small, elliptical, glossy leaves, about 1cm long, that resemble those of boxwood. The pale-lavender flowers appear at the tips of the stems in July. A robust cultivar that requires little maintenance. 30cm.

Buy Hebe Buxifolia Nana from Gardening Express

Buy Hebe Buxifolia Nana from OnBuy

Hebe ‘Heartbreaker’

A hebe grown primarily for its colourful foliage. During the summer the leaves are green with a white border but in autumn they turn pale purple and pink. Lavender-coloured racemes of flowers in summer. 75cm. RHS H3.

Buy Hebe Heartbreaker from the RHS

Buy Hebe Heartbreaker from Crocus

Hebe Garden Beauty Blue (= ‘Cliv’)

60cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Blue from the RHS

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Blue from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe Starlight (= ‘Marklight’)

The combination of green and cream variegated foliage and dazzling, bright-white flowers on this hebe attracted a lot of attention when this cultivar was first introduced in 2018. 1m. RHS H3.

Buy Hebe Starlight from the RHS

Buy Hebe Starlight from Hayloft

Hebe Blue Ice (= ‘Lowapb’)

Raised by Lowaters and introduced in 2013, this hebe was selected for its compact shape and bright-green foliage. Masses of pale-blue flowers on upright spikes appear for about six weeks in midsummer. 50cm.

Buy Hebe Blue Ice from the RHS

Buy Hebe Blue Ice from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe ‘Red Edge’

A popular hybrid hebe that was introduced in the 1960s. The glaucous leaves have a red margin that becomes even more pronounced in winter. The small flowers are pale mauve. 60cm. AGM. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Red Edge from Crocus

Buy Hebe Red Edge from the RHS

Hebe Garden Beauty Purple (= ‘Nold’)

A rounded and compact hebe shrub that has small, deep-green leaves. The purple flowers first appear in early June and become paler as they age. 65cm. RHS H4, USDA 8a-10a.

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Purple from the RHS

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Purple from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe Blush Elegance (= ‘Lowele’)

A large and floriferous hebe shrub with glossy, green foliage that is covered with soft-pink flowers from July through to October. The flowers fade almost to white as they age. 1.2m. RHS H3.

Buy Hebe Blush Elegance from the RHS

Buy Hebe Blush Elegance from Garden Beauty

Hebe Midnight Sky  (= ‘Lowten’)

A startling sight in winter when the glossy, green leaves turn deep purple, sometimes looking almost black. The flowers appear from June to August and are a purplish-pink colour. 75cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Midnight Sky from the RHS

Buy Hebe Midnight Sky from Garden Beauty

Hebe ‘Caledonia’

A compact, rounded hebe plant that is ideal for a container. The striking, dark-green leaves have a red edge and are entirely plum-coloured when they emerge. Violet flowers from late spring to early autumn. 60cm. AGM. RHS H4, USDA 7a-10b.

Buy Hebe Caledonia from the RHS

Buy Hebe Caledonia from J. Parker’s

Hebe ‘Baby Marie’

A low-growing, compact hebe that makes a good flowering plant. The flowers are pink in bud, opening to a pale lilac and fading to white. An early flowering form that blooms in April and May. 40cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Baby Marie from Gardening Express

Buy Hebe Baby Marie from the RHS

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• How to care for and grow Japanese anemones
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More on growing shrubs:

• 26 of the best flowering shrubs
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• Evergreen shrubs for sun and shade

Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’

Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’, the blood-twig dogwood, is widely grown for its fiery winter stems. These are gold-orange at the base, glowing flame-orange towards the tips. In summer, insignificant white flowers are produced; the leaves turn orange-yellow in autumn before falling. A good choice for damp soil. 1.5m. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b.

Cornus alba Baton Rouge (‘Minibat’)

Cornus alba ‘Baton Rouge’ (‘Minibat’) is a striking dogwood with scarlet winter stems. Flattish heads of small, white spring flowers are followed by bluish-white berries. The dark-green leaves turn a rich purple in autumn. 1.5m. RHS H7, USDA 2a-8b.

Salix alba var. vitellina ‘Yelverton’

Salix alba var. vitellina ‘Yelverton’, the golden willow, is a tree that is often grown as a shrub. It produces striking bronze-red stems in winter. Small catkins appear in late spring; the leaves are narrow and mid-green. A good choice for a damp spot. 12m. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b.

Rubus biflorus

Rubus biflorus is a suckering shrub with upright, prickly stems that are covered in an eye-catching white bloom in winter. Small white flowers in summer are sometimes followed by small yellow fruits. Left unpruned this ornamental bramble makes an impenetrable thicket, so annual pruning to ground level in spring is the best practice. 3m. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b.

Rubus thibetanus

Rhubus thibetanus is also known as the ghost bramble, thanks to the chalky white bloom that covers the dark purple winter stems in winter to stunning effect. The stems can be upright or arching. Small, purplish flowers in spring develop into inedible black fruits. The fern-like leaves are green above, silver-white beneath. This ornamental bramble is ideal for growing under the light shade of trees. 90cm. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b. 

When the pioneer hellebore breeders of the 1960s, Eric Smith and Jim Archibald, began the journey to the startling colours and forms that we have today, simple species hellebores played a crucial part. These plantsmen brought wild hellebore species together with each other and with existing selections and cultivars, creating the colours and colour combinations that are now so desirable.

The pale greens of Helleborus odorus subsp. cyclophyllus, the purples, slate-blues and dark veins of Helleborus torquatus, and the speckles of Helleborus orientalis subsp. guttatus all played their part. Even some of the first double-flowered forms came from plants of Helleborus torquatus collected in the wild.

The wild species that went into creating our modern cultivars are also fascinating to grow. These hellebore flowers are not large, and are often green and sometimes have a fragrance. But while these species were used by breeders, hellebore enthusiasts also began to collect wild species for their own refinement and, sometimes, prolific flowering.

These wild hellebore species may not have the obvious impact of today’s garden hellebore hybrids, but those with a sense of history and an eye for detail will appreciate their role in the development of our favourite winter flowers and enjoy their quieter beauty.

• Where to plant species hellebores
• Caring for species hellebores
• Propagating species hellebores
• Where to buy species hellebores

How to grow species hellebores

Where to plant species hellebores

Hellebore species vary in their needs. The stemless species are usually happy in good garden soil in at least some shade; the more open the situation, the more moisture hellebores require.

Helleborus foetidus and its cultivars are best in dappled shade or in a perennial border where taller, later-flowering plants provide summer shade.

Helleborus argutifolius is unexpectedly adaptable, but the tall stems often need a plant support. The much smaller, closely related Helleborus lividus appreciates frost protection, and thrives in terracotta pots in a cold greenhouse or sheltered porch. The hybrid between the two, Helleborus x sternii, is a fine plant for winter containers, and some forms have exceptionally beautiful foliage as well as pretty flowers.

Hot, dry summers, along with protection from summer moisture and from winter frosts, are needed for the dramatic Helleborus vesicarius. A large cloche is usually sufficient for this purpose. Plants can either be grown in the border or in a large pot in an unheated greenhouse.

Caring for species hellebores

Cut off the foliage of both evergreen and deciduous hellebore species in late autumn or early winter to prevent the carry-over of disease.

Deadhead to prevent the proliferation of unwanted hybrid seedlings.

Mulch with weed-free organic matter in autumn helps maintain vigour and deter weeds.

Lift and divide stemless hellebore species in September or October and either replant at once or pot into 12cm pots and grown on for a year in a cold frame or a sheltered site outside before planting.

Provide taller-stemmed varieties with a plant support, especially in exposed locations.

Propagating species hellebores

Many of these hellebore forms can be propagated by seed, which should be sown promptly, as it ripens, in early summer. Seed needs a warm and moist period followed by cooling temperatures. Hellebore seedlings usually emerge in winter or early spring, but germination can be unpredictable. Seed-raised plants may take some years to flower.

None of the tall-stemmed hellebore types are amenable to division and seed rarely comes true unless bees are excluded during flowering time.

Where to buy species hellebores

• Ashwood Nurseries
  Ashwood Lower Lane, Kingswinford, West Midlands DY6 0AE.
  Tel 01384 401996, ashwoodnurseries.com
  The nursery has a beautiful winter garden and runs hellebore tours in February and March, with an opportunity to purchase specially selected plants (check website for dates).
• Hazles Cross Farm Nursery
  Hollins Lane, Kingsley, Staffordshire ST10 2EP.
  Tel 01538 752669, hazlescrossfarmnursery.co.uk
  Holds the National Collection of hellebores. This comprises all known species, with many forms of each on display. Plants for sale, by telephone.

Species hellebores to grow

Helleborus argutifolius 

The Corsican hellebore is a bold evergreen with upright, woody stems topped with clusters of up to 30 flowers, 3-5cm in width, above large, leathery leaves split into three spiny leaflets. An adaptable hellebore but best in full sun; staking is wise. Flowers January to March. 90cm-1m. RHS H5, USDA 6a-10b.

Buy Helleborus argutifolius from Crocus

Helleborus foetidus 

The dark, evergreen, narrow foliage of the stinking hellebore (so called as its foliage gives off an unpleasant scent when crushed) is held on upright woody stems topped with small, prolific, red-edged, tubular flowers. One of two British native hellebore species, try any cultivar, especially the red-tinted Wester Flisk Group. Flowers January to May. 90cm-1.2m. AGM. RHS H7, USDA 5a-9b.

Buy Helleborus foetidus from Crocus

Helleborus atrorubens 

Deciduous leaves have up to 15 divisions. The small, flowers are mainly green inside with reddish-purple backs. Still confused with the Helleborus orientalis cultivar once known as ‘Atrorubens’, now called Early Purple Group. Flowers February to March. 25-35cm. RHS H5, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus atrorubens from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus odorus 

Usually evergreen, with the young foliage covered in silvery hairs, and maturing with up to 11 divisions. The apple-green flowers of this hellebore are large (4-7cm in width) and are fragrant, although opinions differ on the quality of the scent. Flowers December to March. 45-55cm. RHS H5, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus odorus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus multifidus subsp. istriacus

Deciduous, with rather large, 5cm, green flowers, sometimes tinted purple, often scented. Relatively undivided foliage this hellebore is split into up to 12 broad leaflets, sometimes tinted bronze as they unfurl. Flowers February to April. 20-30cm. RHS H6, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus multifidus subsp. istriacus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus torquatus

Bringing rich, dark, even bluish colour to hybrids and often puzzling botanists, the 3-4cm flowers of this hellebore vary in colour and pattern, with some pretty, dark-veined forms. The deciduous leaves may be tinted purple when young. Flowers January to March. 20-35cm. RHS H7, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus torquatus from Rare Plants

Helleborus liguricus 

Deciduous foliage is split into about 11 broad leaflets. This form differs from the similar Helleborus bocconei in holding the whiteish-green flowers well above the foliage and in having a strong, sweet scent. Flowers November to February. 25-30cm. RHS H7, USDA 5a-8b.

Buy Helleborus liguricus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus viridis subsp. occidentalis 

Deciduous foliage is spilt into up to 20 slim, toothed leaflets, sometimes purple-tinted when young, with dark-green flowers 2-4cm in width. One of two British native hellebore species. Flowers February to March. 20-35cm. RHS H7, USDA 6a-9b.

Buy Helleborus viridis from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus orientalis subsp. abchasicus

Evergreen, with bold, dark foliage split into as many as 11 divisions and with red-tinted flowers 5cm in width. This form brings purple nectaries to some cultivars. Helleborus orientalis subsp. abchasicus Early Purple Group is reliably early flowering. Flowers December to March. 40-45cm. RHS H7, USDA 3a-9b.

Buy Helleborus orientalis subsp. abchasicus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus vesicarius 

The bold, buttercup-like foliage lasts from November to June and the whole plant dies back for summer. The tubular, deep-purple-brown flowers are pale-green at the tips and mature into large, fat, inflated pods. Flowers February to April. 45-50cm. RHS H6, USDA 8a-9b.

Buy Helleborus versicarius from Rare Plants

You may also like

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• How to grow and care for cyclamen
• A Devon garden filled with winter colour

February is here. Why not peruse our list of the month’s gardening jobs, check out the best gardens to visit in February and here’s what to plant this month. 

Best February flowers to plant

February doesn’t have to be bare in the garden. If you’re unsure about what to enjoy in the garden in February, here plantsmen Keith Wiley  and Jimi Blake choose flowers for February which are worth planting to ensure colour, structure.

There’s lots to get on top of in the garden too, from pruning, to sowing. Head to our pieces on the best places to buy seeds, to our guides on pruning roses and the general principles of pruning.

Epimedium ‘Black Sea’

One of the first in my large collection of epimediums to flower, with pale, orange-veined yellow, blooms that emerge in February alongside the snowdrops. The wonderful foliage turns nearly black as the temperatures fall in autumn, extending the season of interest in the woodland bed where it’s planted. I’ve experimented growing epimediums in different areas in the garden and find full sun and rich soil that does not dry out is the best for them. I propagate by division at the end of August and cut back all the leaves in early January before they start putting up flower stems. Jimi Blake

Height 30cm.
Origin Garden (species Transcaucasus and Black Sea coast).
Conditions Rich soil that does not dry out; full sun.
Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 5a-8b†.
Season of interest February to March.

Galanthus ‘Veronica Cross’

In recent years there have emerged a lot of new snowdrops that have interesting green markings but for me ‘Veronica Cross’ stands out from the rest. It was a chance cross from the Hertfordshire garden of the wonderful plantswoman and galanthophile Veronica Cross, whom I was lucky enough to visit a few times. If you can’t get your hands on Galanthus ‘Veronica Cross’ you must try its parent Galanthus plicatus ‘Trymlet’, which has similar markings and bulks up really fast for me. JB

Height 20cm.
Origin Garden.
Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; dappled shade with some direct sunshine.
Hardiness RHS H5.
Season of interest January to February.

Here’s our guide on how to grow snowdrops

Cordyline indivisa

Cordyline indivisa can be tricky to grow but they are as happy as Larry here in the valley at Hunting Brook. I have them repeated throughout the valley giving it an exotic look and evergreen structure all year around. This exotic look is created by their sword-shaped foliage and orange defined midrib in the leaf. They are surprisingly hardy, surviving to -15°C with me in 2010. I propagate them from seeds and keep potting them up to get rapid growth before planting out. I unfortunately never got to see these in the wild when I was in New Zealand, but I dream of being able to do so one day. JB

Height 3m.
Origin New Zealand.
Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; dappled shade.
Hardiness RHS H3, USDA 9a-11.
Season of interest Year round for foliage.

Schefflera delavayi

The Araliaceae family is one of my main passions in the plant world and I particularly love the scheffleras, which are among the main plants repeated through the valley here at Hunting Brook. If I had to leave the garden tomorrow and I could take only one plant with me it would be this one. It has a dramatic umbrella-like canopy and has terminal panicles of flowers in autumn. It seems to be totally hardy with me but I did bring it into the glasshouse for the first two winters. I then let it grow and mature before planting out. I adore this plant for its spectacular foliage. JB

Height 3m.
Origin China and Vietnam.
Conditions Well-drained soil and sheltered from cold winds; full sun.
Hardiness RHS H4.
Season of interest Year round.

Cannomois grandis

This restio has survived here at Hunting Brook at temperatures as low as -15°C, so I can see its huge potential as a good garden plant. I have it planted in full sun where it has excellent drainage and that has definitely helped it survive. The older the plant the tougher it becomes. I cut untidy stems at the base in spring to keep the plant looking fresh. Restios prefer a neutral to acid soil but if you can’t provide this, grow them in pots of acidic compost. I have just planted a collection of different restios to see which will be the most hardy and also to use them as cut foliage in my flower arrangements. AGM. JB

Height 2.5m.
Origin South Africa.
Conditions Neutral to acid soil with good drainage but not too dry; full sun.
Hardiness RHS H4.
Season of interest Year round.

Daphne bholua ‘Mary Rose’

I always make a yearly pilgrimage to Pan-Global Plants in Gloucestershire where I found this absolute gem of a daphne. The deep-purple buds form in December to January and then open to deep-pink flowers in February and March. The flowers have a delicious scent, which I adore on my early morning walks at this time of year. This daphne has an upright growth habit that makes it easy to fit into most gardens. When you’re planting any daphne please remember to plant it where it will stay as all daphnes resent transplanting. JB

Height 2-3m.
Origin Garden (species eastern Himalaya).
Conditions Well-drained soil; sun or semi shade.
Hardiness RHS H4.
Season of interest Winter to early spring.

Here’s how to grow daphne

Helonias thibetica

Previously known as Ypsilandra thibetica, this evergreen perennial has fabulously fragrant white flowers with blue anthers growing out of a rosette of foliage. It always flowers around snowdrop time in February and it’s normally when I’m lying on the ground looking at my snowdrops that I really get a good look at this extraordinary flower and take in its beautiful fragrance. It can be propagated by fresh seed surface sown through a layer of grit when seed is ripe in late spring. The early spring plant fairs can be a good place to look for this woodland gem. JB

Height 33cm.
Origin Central and southern China.
Conditions Good woodland soil; dappled shade.
Hardiness RHS H7.
Season of interest Early spring.

Cardamine enneaphyllos

This rather lovely plant with its delicate, nodding yellow flowers is one I originally acquired from the great plantswoman and garden designer Helen Dillon. It now grows in my woodland garden where it has grown extremely slowly but flowers with the snowdrops in the worst of winter weather. When its foliage appears in late January it has a deep reddish-black colour followed by ivory/yellow-coloured pendulous flowers. It’s not a plant that is widely available but I believe any plant that flowers at this time of year is worth sourcing and growing. JB

Height 30cm.
Origin Central Europe.
Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; dappled shade.
Hardiness RHS H7.
Season of interest February to March.

Eranthis hyemalis ‘Noël Ayres’

I would collect anything that flowers this early, but I especially love Eranthis for their vibrant yellow flowers at a time when there is so little colour in the garden. This particular cultivar flowers a little later than most others. It bursts into bloom mid to late February with double flowers and outer petals that are more green than yellow. I propagate these by division when the leaves start to turn yellow (after flowering) or from seed sown once ripe. They look good combined with the less vigorous snowdrops and early flowering crocuses. JB

Height 10cm.
Origin Garden (species western Europe).
Conditions Moisture-retentive soil with good drainage; light shade.
Hardiness RHS H6.
Season of interest Spring.

Chionochloa rubra

This tufted, evergreen grass, known as red tussock grass has to be beyond any doubt my favourite ornamental grass. I was lucky enough to see Chionochloa rubra growing wild in its native New Zealand where it covered hillsides grazed by sheep. It’s a large grass with a tawny-orange colour and a spray of seedheads in the autumn. This Chionochloa rubra is an extremely low-maintenance grass only needing its old flowering stems removed in spring. I have never been successful propagating it from division but seed propagation is possible in spring. AGM. JB

Height 1.5m.
Origin New Zealand.
Conditions Moist but well-drained, fertile soil; full sun.
Hardiness RHS H7.
Season of interest Year round.

Here’s how to grow ornamental grass

Iris unguicularis ‘Peloponnese Snow’

Hardy or near hardy, winter-flowering iris are not thick on the ground, and this one is the standout selection of a species that has filled this gap. The more-often seen cultivars are various shades of lilac-blue, which may or may not have much scent and can be reluctant to produce many flowers. By contrast the beautifully marked white flowers of ‘Peloponnese Snow’ are not only strongly scented but are also produced prolifically for several months. Worth watching out for slugs eating the soft flower stems and flowers. Keith Wiley

Height 30-45cm.
Origin Greece.
Conditions Well-drained soil; sun in preferably a sheltered spot.
Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 7a-9b.
Season of interest Evergreen clump flowering winter through spring.

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Corydalis henrikii

Named after Henrik Zetterlund, of Gothenburg Botanical Garden, who has done so much to bring this genus to the attention of gardeners. This species was found growing on north-facing screes and well-drained limey soils and only named in 1990. Like so many of the genus this one merits close inspection. It will not shout out its presence from its lowly stature, but grow it with the smaller snowdrops, early species crocus and Iris reticulata and a jewel-like tapestry will emerge. A spring ephemeral for a raised bed or rockery retreating below ground soon after flowering. KW

Height 15-20cm in flower.
Origin Turkey.
Conditions Well-drained soil; sun or shade.
Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 5a-8b.
Season of interest Late winter to early spring.

Corydalis: how to care for and plant, plus the best garden corydalis

Daphne ‘Spring Beauty’

Purely in terms of scent the best species of late winter-flowering daphnes are Daphne bholua and Daphne odora. With less fragrance, but greater flower power, this cultivar (bred by Robin White) is a hybrid between Daphne bholua and the supposedly tender Daphne sureil, which ensures it is later flowering and produces masses of pink flowers. Best planted where the morning sun will not reach it while the plant is still frozen after a cold night. Has proved hardy here at Wildside, which is similar to much of southern England. KW

Height 2m.
Origin Garden origin (both parents are Himalayan).
Conditions Fertile, well-drained soil; sun or part shade.
Hardiness RHS H4, USDA 7a-8b.
Season of interest Evergreen shrub flowering late winter to early spring.

The best daphne for year-round colour and scent

Crocus Thirkeanus

Formerly known as Crocus herbertii, this is wonderful growing alongside Corydalis henrikii (see above) and one of my highlights among the winter flowering bulbs. The most intense orange flowers spring from the smallest crocus bulbs I have ever seen. It is a stoloniferous species spreading by underground stems to produce an ever increasing colony of small, grassy leaves when settled, which in my experience can take several years to happen. Seeing these spears of orange emerge so early in the year is a thrill of which I will never tire. Does need small companions, I grow it with low-growing, early grape hyacinths and some of the smaller snowdrops. KW

Height 10cm.
Origin Turkey.
Conditions Well-drained soil; sun.
Hardiness RHS H7, USDA 3a-8b.
Season of interest Late winter.

Crocus: how to plant, grow and care for crocus

Daphne jezoensis

A low-growing daphne that will cover itself in scented yellow flowers for months in late winter. The scent is elusive as I get very little but for others it is glorious. I cannot pretend it is the easiest daphne to grow, needing, as all daphnes do, a well-drained soil but in part shade. I grow mine in a bed under cover but open on all sides. Unusually, it goes dormant after flowering, dropping its leaves through the summer, before making new growth in the autumn. Beware slugs eating the new flowerbuds at this time. KW

Height 60cm.
Origin Northern Japan and eastern Russia.
Conditions Well-drained soil; part shade.
Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 7a-9b.
Season of interest Second half of winter.

Pieris formosa var. forrestii ‘Jermyns’

One of my top ten shrubs for winter effect, although you’ll need a non-limey soil to grow it. Its red flower buds are very good for flower arranging, and the colder the weather the more intense the red colour of these buds becomes. From these, white, heather-like, bell-shaped flowers open in spring, and these are best removed after flowering to improve flowering the following year. If you forget it may flower only every other year. Striking purple-red young foliage will follow if frosts permit. KW

Height Up to 3m.
Origin Garden selection (species native to southwest Asia and Himalayas).
Conditions Ericaceous soil; sun or part shade.
Hardiness RHS H4, USDA 5a-8b.
Season of interest Spring/early summer for new foliage; all winter for flowerbuds.

Erythronium caucasicum

This species always wins the race to be the first erythronium in flower, but as you might expect from a plant that produces flowers so early, it is easily spoilt by bad weather. Strong winds are its main enemy so it is best positioned in a sheltered, semi-shady spot. Given a spell of good weather this species is a joy – a little like a refined Erythronium dens-canis but with superb mottled leaves and yellow, rather than blue, anthers. Very slow to increase with me, seed offering the best option, so grow under cover or protect the plants with a cloche if you want seed. KW

Height 15cm in flower.
Origin Western and central Caucasus.
Conditions Woodsy soil; part shade.
Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 3a-9b.
Season of interest Late winter to very early spring.

Erythroniums: how to care for, plant and the best garden erythroniums

Narcissus ‘Spoirot’

A beautiful hoop-petticoat daffodil that increases by bulb division satisfyingly quickly. I have not noticed it setting seed so it stays where you plant it. This cultivar is rather like a vigorous, larger flowered version of the similar Narcissus bulbocodium var. citrinus, and both have thin, sedge-like leaves. The latter species would definitely make my top ten spring bulbs because it will seed itself around, creating drifts of lemon-yellow flowers that will emerge through anything low-growing enough to allow them to do so, including thin grass.  A wonderful naturalising bulb. KW

Height 20cm in flower.
Origin Garden origin (species from southern Europe).
Conditions Most soils; sun.
Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 6a-9b.
Season of interest Early spring.

Narcissi: how to plant and care for narcissi

Primula ‘Gigha’

In effect a pure-white primrose with a yellow eye that will flower for months giving pools of white in the woodland garden. My experience with primrose cultivars (I have grown very many over the years) is that quite a few of them fade away without you really realising they have disappeared. One of the joys of ‘Gigha’ is its willingness to stay alive without regular division or undue pampering. It can self-seed but it hasn’t done so with me. Like all woodlanders though it will respond favourably if annually mulched and fed. KW

Height 15cm.
Origin Thought to come from the Isle of Gigha off the coast of Scotland.
Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; full sun to part shade.
Hardiness RHS H7, USDA 3a-9b.
Season of interest Late winter to spring.

Cardamine quinquefolia

Known as the five-leaved cuckoo flower, this is a flower that has many obvious similarities to our native Cardamine pratensis, but the colour is stronger in this species and it is easily the first of these perennial types to flower, being a real harbinger of early spring. The five-lobed foliage – hence its name – which comes after the flowers is handsome and makes a nice carpet for several months until it dies down in the summer. It will create quite a dense patch and will spread when happy. Grows in shade of all sorts but you will find that it will flower much better if you give it an annual mulch to feed it. KW

Height 25cm in flower.
Origin From Romania to Iran.
Conditions Most soils; full or half shade.
Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 6a-8b.
Season of interest Early spring for flowers.

Hellebores are indispensable in the garden – they look good for months on end, from midwinter to spring, with attractive, often evergreen foliage. Their flowers come in a range of colours, from pure white to pale lemon yellow and green, myriad shades of pink and even purple-black.

Hellebores look beautiful combined with other late winter and early spring plants, such as cyclamen, snowdrops, narcissi, witch hazel and daphnes. They are often still out when tulips begin to flower in April and May.

Hellebore flowers are also rich in nectar and pollen, at a time of year when these are often scarce, giving much needed sustenance to bees. The nodding flowers protect the pollen from rain, as well as the insect feeding on it.

Most hellebores used to be known as Helleborus orientalis, but so much breeding has taken place and the details of most hellebore’s parentage is so muddied, that they are now known as Helleborus x hybridus.

Here’s our advice on growing hellebores. We also include experts’ recommendations for the best hellebores to grow.

• Where to plant a hellebore
• How to plant a hellebore
• How to care for hellebore
• When to cut back hellebore
• Hellebore leaf spot
• Where to buy hellebores

How to grow hellebores

When to plant hellebores

Hellebores can be planted from autumn to spring. They are often bought in flower.

Where to plant a hellebore

In the wild, most hellebores grow under the canopy provided by deciduous trees and shrubs, and this is the idea place for them in the garden. Although they will tolerate sunny situations they grow best in places that are shaded from midday sun. Avoid deep shade, however, as this will inhibit the plants from flowering. Helleborus x hybridus are amenable plants that will grow both in light, sandy soils and in heavy clay soils, as long as the soil is rich in organic matter.

How to plant a hellebore

Hellebores are deep rooted so dig a hole about one-and-a-half times the height of a spade and incorporate plenty of humus in the form of well-rotted manure, leaf mould, mushroom compost or home-made compost.

Growing hellebores in pots

As they are deep rooted, hellebores do not grow well in pots. However it is fine to grow them in a pot for a season so that you can enjoy their blooms, then plant them out in the garden permanently afterwards.

How to care for a hellebore

During their first year after planting, keep your hellebore plants well-watered and mulch them with compost each autumn.

Hellebores produce masses of seedlings. Weed out any that seed themselves into the crown of the parent plant, otherwise they may smother it. You can leave others to grow on, or dig them up, grow them on in pots and plant back out in the garden when they have reached a decent size.

When to cut back hellebore

Helleborus x hybridus are evergreen but their leaves do die back and should be removed. Remove the previous season’s dying leaves in December, cutting back to the base of the stalk. This allows air and light into the centre of the plant and will encourage healthy flowers.

You can deadhead flowers once they have gone over.

Hellebore leaf spot

Black or dark-brown blotches occasionally appear on the leaves. This is a fungal infection, called hellebore leaf spot, that is encouraged by damp conditions. Remove the leaves as soon as you spot the problem and burn them ‒ don’t put them in the compost bin as this will spread the disease.

When to sow hellebore seeds

You can collect the seeds from ripe pods on your own hellebore plants, and sow outdoors in July and August outdoors. Germination can take several months, and up to a year. They are usually large enough to plant out in the garden around two years after sowing. Bought hellebore seeds can be tricky to germinate.

Dividing a hellebore

Dividing is the easiest way to propagate most types of hellebore. Divide after flowering in spring, or in autumn.

Where to buy hellebores

• Herfordshire Hellebores
  Green Lane Farm, Levens Green, Ware, Hertfordshire SG11 1HD
  Tel 01920 438458
• Ashwood Nurseries
  Ashwood Lower Lane, Ashwood, Kingswinford, West Midlands DY6 0AE
  Tel 01384 401996
• Twelve Nunns
  Mail order only. Suppliers of Harvington Hellebores
• Hazles Cross Farm Nursery
  Hollins Lane, Kingsley, Staffordshire ST10 2EP
  Tel 01538 752669 National Collection Holder, phone for plant availability.

Hellebores recommended by our experts

Helleborus x hybridus

Recommended by: John Hoyland, plantsman and former nursery owner

Hellebores are very fertile plants and they hybridise with ease, as the the crop of seedlings that appears around them testifies. Most of these will have muddy purple flowers, but just occasionally you find a gem of a plant. This was one such, growing among a group of double-flowered and anemone-centred hellebores. A more reliable way to get results like this is to hand-pollinate your plants and sow the hellebore seed yourself. That this one appeared, with its frilly edge petals and soft pink flowers, with no intervention from me, makes it a one-off delight that I cherish.

Helleborus x ericsmithii ‘Bob’s Best’

Recommended by: Derry Watkins of Special Plants Nursery

A cross between Helleborus argutifolius for its hardiness, Helleborus lividus for its leaves and Helleborus niger for its flowers. Unlike orientalis hybrids, this helleborus does not like rich woodland conditions. It revels in sun and drainage. It has fabulous outward-facing flowers held well above the leaves. They age from creamy white to pink to almost red; because each hellebore flower lasts so long all the colours may be visible at once. The evergreen leaves don’t need to be cut to the ground – just remove tatty ones.

Buy Helleborus x ericsmithii ‘Bob’s Best’ from Cotswold Garden Flowers

Helleborus x hybridus ‘Yellow Lady’

© Jason Ingram

Recommended by: Chris Marchant at Orchard Dene Nurseries

There are so many beautiful hellebores that I can’t choose just one as a favourite, but this pale yellow hellebore deserves a mention. Usually unmarked, the flowers are occasionally speckled burgundy at the base of the nectaries. Upright stems hold the hellebore flowers proud of the foliage, giving a perfect opportunity to appreciate their long-lasting display. The colour is especially effective teamed with the purples and blues of a woodland border: I have clumps mixed with Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’ and the glossy spring foliage of giant colchicums.

Buy Helleborus x hybridus ‘Yellow Lady’ from Bluebell Cottage Nursery

Helleborus niger Harvington hybrids

Recommended by: Mat Reese

This selection from Harvington Hellebores has bloomed before Christmas for the past few years and produces little vignettes of sumptuous, white flowers, each blossom centred with a cluster of golden stamens. Although these hellebores have a reputation for requiring a limy soil, mine have been thriving in stony, humus-rich, acidic soil for some years. These hellebores do take time to establish, resent disturbance, and hate sitting wet. They’re also gross feeders, meaning they are hungry plants and so need to be fed annually with compost.

Buy Helleborus niger Harvington hybrids from Twelve Nunns nursery

Helleborus atrorubens

Recommended by: Hans Kramer, owner of De Hessenhof

In Slovenia, where it grows in the wild, this hellebore – seldom seen in cultivation – starts flowering in April but in the mild, unstable winters of northwest Europe it usually starts to flower in February. With so many hybrids now flooding European nurseries, it is refreshing to see the subtle charm of the true species. This is the only species where the petals, which are in fact sepals, hold their colour long after pollination. What’s more, it’s deciduous so you don’t have to worry about cutting leaves in the winter.

Buy Helleborus atrorubens from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus x sternii ‘Silver Shadow’

Recommended by: Fleur van Zonneveld, of De Kleine Plantage

Among the slew of new hellebore hybrids and cultivars, all with fabulous colours, flower shapes and leaf structures, ‘Silver Shadow’ demands a special place. It has extraordinary flower – a mix of pink, green and apricot colours – that rise wonderfully against the silvery leaves with serrated edges. It is lower and more compact than many other hellebores and does very well in pots. Unlike most other hellebores, it likes a sunny, dry and alkaline soil.

Buy the similar Helleborus x sternii from Crocus

Helleborus x hybridus white-flowered

Recommended by: Mat Reese, head gardener at Malverleys

There are many hellebore hybrids to choose from – and I have quite a few of them in the woodland garden at Malverleys – but my default is the white-flowered form with a green eye. Unlike the darker forms, it shows up well, particularly in shady woodland conditions. It has vigour and, if kept isolated from other colours, will self-sow true from seed. In the winter when the ground is too hard or too wet to work, cut out the tatty old leaves and feed with leaf mould so the flowers are displayed at their best.

Helleborus x hybridus Harvington red

Recommended by: Polly Nicholson of Bayntun Flowers

Outward-facing, saucer-shaped, flowers in varying shades from deep pink to clear red with deeply cut foliage. This hellebore makes a good cut flower once the seedheads have formed, especially if the tips of stems are seared.

Buy Helleborus x hybridus Harvington red from Crocus

Helleborus x ericsmithii ‘Winter Sunshine’

Recommended by: John Hoyland, plantsman and former nursery owner

Helleborus x ericsmithii has distinguished origins. Firstly, botanist Frederick Stern crossed Helleborus lividus with Helleborus argutifolius to produce the robust and attractive Helleborus x sternii. Sixty years ago plantsman Eric Smith crossed this with the large, white flowers of Helleborus niger. The result was a jewel of a plant with lightly marbled foliage and pink-tinge, white flowers. Thanks to micro-propagation, attractive forms of this plants can be reproduced easily. This one is vigorous and has dark green leaves with a pewter sheen. The flowers are ivory-white, turning a deep pink as they age.

Buy Helleborus x ericsmithii ‘Winter Sunshine’ from Garden Beauty

Helleborus foetidus

Recommended by: Hans Kramer, owner of De Hessenhof

Although this is the shortest living hellebore – it rarely lives longer than three to four years – I could not do without it. It is a good, all-round plant, starting with attractive, deeply divided leaves, which are a dark green. Some cultivars, such as ‘Sopron’, can have a silvery sheen to the lear, while Helleborus foetidus Wester Flisk Group has striking beetroot-coloured stems that contrast well with the pale-green flowers. These begin as rosettes, which tart to elongate as the weather gets cooler, then form light-green buds that gradually open over winter.

Buy Helleborus foetidus from Crocus

Hellebore breeding

The flowers of Helleborus orientalis used to be a dull pink but in the 1960s nurserywoman Helen Ballard extended the colour range to include dark pinks and white. During the 1970s and 1980s another formidable nurserywoman, Elizabeth Strangman, bred plants that had dark flowers or flowers that had dark-edged, petal-like sepals, which have become known as picotee (from the French picoter, to speckle or to mark with various colours). Strangman also collected seed from plants growing in the wild, and in Montenegro came across plants of Helleborus torquatus that had double flowers, which she introduced into her breeding programme.

Other plant enthusiasts continued to breed evermore beautiful hellebores. Robin White of Blackthorn Nursery focused both on double-flowered forms and on those with spotted sepals; at Ashwood Nurseries, John Massey and Kevin Belcher have produced an astonishing range of hellebores, in particular ones with strong colour on the reverse of the sepals. Hugh Nunn, who formerly ran Harvington Hellebores, has a breeding regime that produces seed strains consistent in their flower colour and vigour.

One of the latest links in this chain of hellebore breeders is Lorna Jones of Hertfordshire Hellebores. Her initial motivation was to provide great plants for her own garden, with an emphasis on tall, early flowering plants that were disease resistant. One of the most sought-after types of hellebore are the so-called anemone forms, plants where the nectaries are enlarged to form a ring of small tubes at its centre. Lorna has been able to produce anemone forms where these nectaries are the same colour as the sepals, others that have picotee sepals and, most dramatically, forms that have nectaries that contrast with the sepals.

Some of the Helleborus torquatus hybrids have double flowers and hark back to the first double that Elizabeth Strangman found growing in the wild. Their sepals tend to be narrow and twisted, so Lorna has christened them ‘spider’ hellebores.

New hellebore hybrids to look out for

Here are some of the beautiful hellebores bred by Lorna Jones at Hertfordshire Hellebores.

Anemone centre

The enlarged nectaries of Helleborus x hybridus Purple Speckle create a dark ruff at the middle of the flower, known as an anemone centre. The purple sepals are slightly pointed and are heavily mottled with dark purple.

Raspberry red

Lorna is still searching for the elusive true red, and is in the process of selecting plants that have a red sheen on the petals. This seedling has lavender-pink sepals, which are packed with a contrasting raspberry colour. In addition to its colouring, Lorna has selected this plant for the rounded, open shape of its flower. This is Helleborus x hybridus Red Apricot.

Spider hellebore

An unusual flower with several rows of narrow, same shaped flowers is one of the aims of twisting sepals to create what Lorna has dubbed ‘spider hellebores’. In this form the creamy-white sepals have a pale pink back. This is Helleborus torquatus hybrid Spider Double.

Double

A double-flowered form with pink sepals that are heavily speckled on the inside and have a dusky-pink back. The sepals are narrower than normal with slightly crimped edges that create a frilly flower. This is Helleborus x hybridus Pink Red Speckle Double.

Picotee

© Rachel Warne

A heavily spotted form that harks back to some of the earlier results of hellebore breeding. Unlike those, this plant has beautifully rounded, symmetrical sepals. This is Helleborus x hybridus Pink Spotted.

Additional photography by Jason Ingram, Maayke de Ridder and Sharon Pearson

While most snowdrops are white, or white with green markings, some are yellow. The yellow markings are most frequently spotted on the flowers, but can also occur on the leaves.

Yellow snowdrops set the hearts of galanthophiles (snowdrop lovers) racing, and they are highly sought after. In 2022, a single bulb of Galanthus plicatus ‘Golden Tears’, bred by Joe Sharman of Monksilver Nursery, sold for £1,850. He previously broke records in 2015, when another of his introductions, ‘Golden Fleece’ (see below), bred over the course of a decade, sold for an eye-watering £1,390.

Snowdrop obsession: Would you pay £1,000 for a single bulb?

Theoretically, yellow aberrations can occur on any snowdrop and so, as stands to reason, they are most commonly found in the most prolific group, Galanthus nivalis. In Northumberland yellow snowdrops, known as ‘halfers’, arise spontaneously and regularly in wild clumps.

Yellow snowdrops: everything you need to know

These popular and covetable, if challenging, cultivars can be hesitant to grow, as their yellow colouring is the result of a lack of chlorophyll, the green pigment present in all plants that is responsible for absorbing light as part of photosynthesis. Therefore to get the best out of a ‘yellow’, the bulbs should be grown outside (rather than in a greenhouse), in a location that enjoys a lot of winter sun.

Read our detailed guide to growing snowdrops.

Here are five yellow snowdrops recommended by specialist nursery, Morlas Plants in Shropshire, run by Jane Rowlinson.

Yellow snowdrops to grow

Galanthus plicatus ‘Golden Fleece’

The first yellow, inverse poculiform (goblet-shaped) snowdrop that broke records in 2015 when a single bulb sold for £1,390. Bred over ten years by Joe Sharman of Monksilver Nursery. Height: 15cm.

Galanthus gracilis ‘Ronald Mackenzie’

A beautiful yellow snowdrop with delicate inner markings. Height: 16cm.

Galanthus x valentinei ‘Dryad Gold Ribbon’

A superb snowdrop with a rounded bloom and a large, yellow, inverted heart on the inner segments. Late flowering. Height: 16cm

Galanthus nivalis (Sandersii Group)

The snowdrop that originally sparked Jane’s enthusiasm. Distinguished by it’s yellow ovary and inner petal markings. Height: 15cm

Galanthus ‘Wendy’s Gold’

Inner segments can be slightly greenish yellow on first opening before changing to pure yellow. AGM. Height: 15cm.

Where to buy yellow snowdrops

Morlas Plants

Woodlands
Nant Lane
Selattyn
Oswestry
SY10 7HA
www.morlasplants.co.uk

All it takes are a few key things such as shelter, food, and water, to make birds feel at home in your garden. Gardening with birds in mind is so important these days when small birds are challenged by problems such as climate change, habitat challenges and bird flu. The rewards are great – the colour and life that birds bring into the garden is something to savour. There is such joy in seeing a flock of Blue Tits flitting from one shrub to another, or a little Wren hopping out from under the hedge, and who hasn’t loved a Robin keeping them company during the autumn leaf raking?

There are lots of brilliant plants to grow in your garden and some of them provide fantastic food and shelter for garden birds as well as looking great. You don’t need to have a wild garden to make birds feel at home, you just need to think about what birds need and plan – and plant – accordingly.

These are my top plants for birds. I’ve tried to make it a good mix so there should be something that will suit every garden, large or small.

Here’s more on how you can support birds, from bird baths and feeders to bird houses and bird tables.

The best plants for birds

Best trees for birds

Amelanchier – Snowy Mespilus

Even if you have a small garden, do make room for one tree. There is nothing as good as a tree for making birds feel sheltered and protected, plus it gives you somewhere to hang your bird feeders. Amelanchier is a great choice. It has a froth of white spring blossom followed by juicy little fruits that the birds love and a great show of autumn colour, which is great for us gardeners. It’s very tolerant of soil and situation, has a lovely twiggy habit that birds – and garden designers – love, and you can easily grow it as a multi stem shrub if you’re very tight on space.

Fruit trees such as Apple, Plum etc

Fruit trees are great for all sorts of wildlife from insects and bees to the birds that will feed on those very insects, not to mention the fruits the trees produce. From the gardener’s point of view, with all that lovely blossom, fruit trees are fantastic for pulling in pollinators far and wide which makes for a healthy, happy garden with plenty of fruit and flowers. Added to that, fruit trees are brilliant for smaller spaces as you can buy them on dwarf or super dwarf rootstocks which are perfect for growing in pots, training against a wall or fence or even over an arch.

Holly – Ilex

I do love a shiny, evergreen holly and so do the birds. They love the shelter those spiny leaves offer at nesting time, not to mention any berries that the plant might produce in the bleak winter months. The great thing for gardeners about a holly is that it can be a tree, a shrub or even a rather good clipped topiary should you take the trouble to train it. Birds will love it in any shape or form, though. I love ‘Golden King’ which contrary to its name is in fact a female form producing plenty of shiny red berries against the gold and green variegated leaves.

Best shrubs for birds

Sambucus – Elder

Lavender

Lavender is one of those must-have garden plants that looks great planted on its own or with other plants. Whether it’s classic path edging of dwarf lavender such as ‘Imperial Gem’ or a gravel garden planting of species lavender, that silver grey foliage and the long lasting flowers make for a Mediterranean feel all summer long. Besides the obvious garden appeal, all that shrubbiness is great for birds like wrens to use as cover while goldfinches will sometimes go for the seeds, while the flowers attract all sorts of insects and the birds that follow them.

Cotoneaster

The humble cotoneaster is so easy to dismiss but there is no doubt that birds love those berries and that characteristically twiggy growth for shelter. For gardeners the great thing about the cotoneaster is that there is one to suit every garden. For larger gardens, choose the tree forms like Cotoneaster lacteus; for training against a wall good old Cotoneaster horizontalis with those sprays of foliage and fruits is an easy choice. When it comes to a tiny garden, I’m rather taken with the diminutive Cotoneaster microphyllus, which, as its name suggests, has small leaves, grows slowly and daintily, but nonetheless produces lots of little dusty red berries.

Barberry – Berberis

Best climbing plants for birds

Wisteria

With its strong, woody growth and large, lush leaves, wisteria makes a wonderful shelter for all sorts of birds, from tiny tits to brash Pigeons and anything in between. Marvellous for nesting, it also is a haven for insects, which those tits will happily pick off. But it’s also one of the most spectacular climbers for your garden, with a profusion of long racemes of flowers, sometimes scented, in shades of white, blue, pink or purple in spring. Personally, I’d go for blue Wisteria sinensis every time: that summer sky blue is a joy and the scent is sublime.

Ivy – Hedera

Ivy is something of a wonder plant when it comes to wildlife in general, but especially birds. The flowers are brilliant for attracting insects and the birds that feed on them; the foliage provides superb cover for nests while those hard, black berries are often the only food left in any quantity in the depths of a hard winter. Ideally you need to let an Ivy plant get tall and mature to produce flowers and fruit, they’re all leaf when they’re small. However, Ivy can be somewhat destructive, taking over trees and walls to their detriment, so think carefully where to let it have its head. An old tree stump is ideal, or go for the variety ‘Arborescens’ , a non-climbing form that produces flowers and fruits at a small size.

Best flowers for birds

Sunflower – Helianthus

This simple to grow annual has so much going for it. Right from the pleasure of sowing those big, stripy seeds into a pot, tying up the slender stems to sticks as they grow, planting out and then finally watching the massive blooms appear on stalks up to 2m(6ft) tall: growing sunflowers is just absolute fun. Once those flowers appear, there are insects galore drawn to those huge banks of pollen, after that the birds will take their turn at the wealth of seeds on offer. Make sure you grow the right varieties though – go for single forms rather than the doubles or multi-petalled types, as these won’t produce seeds.

Love in a Mist – Nigella

The delicate and wiry, not to mention beautifully named, ‘Love-in-a-Mist’ is one of my must-have annuals and also a brilliant plant for birds. This little lovely is as easy to grow as scattering a few seeds and yet won’t run amok through your garden, instead popping up daintily wherever there’s a spot of sunshine. I love the filigree stems with their elegant flowers and spectacular seed heads, all only 30 or 40cm (12-16ins) tall. The birds are more interested in what’s inside those puffy heads: a wealth of rich, dark, seeds full of oils and nutrients.

You may also like

• Eight of the best bird feeders
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• 14 of the best bird baths

Ice Plant – Sedum

A classic addition to the late summer border, the Ice Plant is also a winner when it comes to bird life too. There are lots of varieties to choose from but go for a species rather than a hybrid if possible, such as sedum spectabile forms like ‘Autumn Joy’, as these will produce seeds which some birds like finches are drawn to. But it’s leaving the stems through the autumn that is crucial, providing a habitat for insects and foraging birds late in the season.

Ornamental grasses

Grasses with ornamental flower heads and foliage have changed our gardens hugely in recent years, but they’re also providing a fantastic food source for birds. Think about Pennisetum, Stipa and Miscanthus – that profusion of seeds is wonderful for the lean seasons of autumn and winter, while the stems make for excellent cover. Come the spring those weathered old stems and foliage are perfect for building nests.

Lawn flowers

Forget the chemical treatments and let a bit of your lawn go in spring and early summer. All those lawn flowers – the clover, the daisies and, yes, even the dandelions – are just marvellous for birds. You’ll see blackbirds, sparrows and finches all happily scratching about, picking up insects and seeds from the lawn and then scuttling back to the cover of the shrubs. If you’re lucky you might even get a woodpecker looking for ants. You don’t need to let it go completely, just start mowing every few weeks rather than weekly, and let those flowers bloom a little.

Thistles – Globe thistle, Eryngium etc

To us gardeners some thistles are just downright weeds, to birds those seeds are a boon. That doesn’t mean you need to grow a thistle patch though, instead opt for the ornamental thistles such as the statuesque 1.2m (4ft) Globe Thistle or the elegant teasel, both of which look great towards the back of a border. If you don’t have room for those, try a sea holly or Eryngium with their metallic blue or silver stems. Some are very dwarf at 20cm (8 ins) up to 60cm (2ft) so perfect for smaller spaces.

Buy Jane’s book Planting for Garden Birds here.