Rudbeckias, also known as black-eyed Susan, are much loved for their exuberant flowers that bring a bold splash of colour to the garden from August to October.

The most common rudbeckias, variants of Rudbeckia fulgida, are perennial, with mostly bright yellow petals and a distinctive dark central cone. They range in height from around 60cm to 2m tall, depending on the variety. Rudbeckias derived from Rudbeckia hirta often have have russet, dark-red or brown flowers and are shorter. They are usually grown as half-hardy annuals from seed, but will survive mild winters, flowering in their second and even third year.

Rudbeckias are particularly well suited to prairie-style and naturalistic plantings, alongside other plants that peak in late summer and autumn, such as echinacea, persicaria, asters and ornamental grasses. They also make excellent cut flowers.

Jump to

• Where to grow rudbeckia
• When to sow rudbeckia
• When to cut back rudbeckia
• The best rudbeckia to grow

How to grow rudbeckia

Where to grow rudbeckia

Rudbeckias do best in full sun or dappled shade, but will not do well in poor or very dry soils. Grow them with other tall, upright perennials so that they are naturally supported by them.

When to sow rudbeckia

Rudbeckia hirta cultivars can be raised as half-hardy annuals, sown under glass in late March or early April and planted out in their final positions in late May/early June. They can also be sown direct in their flowering positions in spring. Perennial rudbeckias can be sown in spring, although germination may be erratic.

When to cut back rudbeckia

Rudbeckia fulgida cultivars have attractive seedheads, so can be left standing in the garden over winter, then cut back in February. Otherwise, cut down after flowering in autumn.

Rudbeckia problems

The main problem with rudbeckias is slugs grazing on the young growth in spring, so be vigilant and protect plants if necessary.

More on growing late summer perennials:

The best small-flowered asters to grow

10 recommended plants for late summer colour

Plants for full sun

The best rudbeckia to grow

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’

Widely available, reliable and floriferous. It has dark green foliage and rich yellow flowers. Later in the season it has attractive black pincushion heads and a good winter silhouette. Height: 60cm.

Rudbeckia fulgida var. deamii

More open branched than ‘Goldsturm’, with rough hairy stems, greyish-green hairy leaves and clear yellow petals. A tough plant that puts up with drier conditions than other Rudbeckia fulgida forms, and possibly more slug resistant. Height: 60cm

Rudbeckia nitida ‘Herbstonne’

Rudbeckia triloba

Has the smallest blooms of all the rudbeckias, around 5cm diameter. It is very floriferous, with very dark cones. It suits a position on the edge of woodland. It is a relatively shortlived perennial. Height: 1m.

Rudbeckia triloba ‘Prairie Glow’

Masses of small, russet-coloured flowers, with yellow tips, on tall, airy stems. A shortlived perennial. Height: 1.2m.

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Cappuccino’

An attractive annual that has burnished orange petals with dark brown markings. Makes a great cut flower. Height: 60cm.

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’

Masses of cheerful yellow flowers with a pale green centre. The petals are two toned, darker yellow near the centre. Looks great in the border or in a vase. Height: 80cm.

Rudbeckia hirta Cherokee Sunset

A beautiful rudbeckia in stunning sunset shades and a dark centre. Makes an excellent cut flower. Height: 60cm.

Here’s more summer flowers to grow

Mulching should be on every gardener’s mind. An integral and fundamental part of gardening, mulching keeps plants looking beautiful and productive through the year. For many it’s a passion that I’d wager rivals even the joy of planting. But the debate about the specifics of mulching is endless: from the perfect mulching depth to the right compost mixture for mulch.

• Our guide to everything you need for composting
• How to make foliar sprays
• Composting using the bokashi and worm methods

What is mulching?

In nature mulch comes from fallen leaves, plant debris and passing animals, and when we mulch in the garden we aim to recreate that cycle. However, the term mulch can be used to describe any material a gardener chooses to cover the soil with, such as compost, rotted manure, cardboard or even seaweed. Perhaps surprisingly, it is only recently that we’ve started to fully understand the sustainable and ecological benefits of mulching.

Why should we mulch?

It helps the soil

To understand the benefit of mulching we first must look at the soil. Soil is endlessly fascinating with a complex ecosystem and expanse that’s enough to rival our own universe. Under the microscope, soil is revealed as a place both beguiling and terrifying with an ‘eat or be eaten’ philosophy, and it’s that microbe eco-system that is one of the chief reasons we mulch; providing food and nutrients.

Bugs and beasties such as worms suck the mulch into the depths of the soil where microbes then begin to break it down. These microbes become swollen with nutrients like small bags of fertiliser that attract other hungry microbial predators and the waste from this digestion is then drawn up by the plant to ensure healthy growth. In essence we mulch to feed soil microbes, not the plant directly.

All this activity from worm tunnels, material shredding and microbe hunting develops good soil structure that allows enough water and oxygen to infiltrate the soil and limits the negative impacts from compaction, which can lead to anaerobic conditions, aiding plant diseases and pathogens.

Retaining water

Mulch also allows for beneficial moisture retention helping plants through hot summers, limiting the need for constant irrigation. While reducing soil erosion and wash off from excessive rain will help keep the soil protected from the frost and sun.

Mulching and weeds

Mulch also has an important part to play in weed suppression. Adding mulch will help smother early spring weed germination and allow you to avoid the mad rush of spring growth. It will keep your garden looking neat and tidy by covering messiness that winter can bring.

How to make mulch

The mulch you use really comes down to preference and accessibility. It must be made from good materials and in the correct way so as not to transfer weed seeds or disease. Being cost effective is also a bonus.

The best mulch for garden borders

Compost

A good garden compost is one of the best forms of mulch for plant and soil health and has been proven many times over. One chief benefit is that good compost contains a rich diversity of creatures, microbes and fungi that aid all soil health, comparable to a woodland floor. However, the usual dilemma is not being able to create enough for the size of the garden. Local council composts are a great resource and can be bought in bulk for a relatively cheap price, solving the quantity dilemma. They work even better when mixed with your own garden compost to help build microbe diversity. An added benefit is that you are also helping recycle household waste.

Animal manure

Rotted animal manures are also a good mulching substitute as these can be brought in bulk. But they can lack the microbial and nutrient diversity of compost, depending how long they have been allowed to break down and varies depending on the type of animal. Therefore it is important to research the source of the manure and the type of farming it has comes from.

Mulching with leaves, straw or cardboard

If you don’t have access compost or manure, there are many ways to mulch. Shredding and leaving garden debris can work effectively or simply gather up all your garden leave – but always be wary of slugs when using leaves or straw. Cardboard can also be placed over the soil but works best with annual or vegetable beds. It makes an amazing weed suppressant and works better when compost is applied over the top.

Woodchip mulching

Woodchip should only be used when the source is guaranteed to avoid acid imbalance or toxicity from certain trees, or by importing nasty chemicals used in timber treatment. If you can find a good sustainable wood source it is still required to be mixed with compost and broken down to balance the carbon : nitrogen balance. I find woodchip best used as a carbon source when making compost.

• Discover more about worm composting and bokashi

How to mulch

When to mulch?

Once you have chosen your desired mulch the next step is application. Simply spread it in late autumn/early winter or early spring.

How deep should you mulch?

Spread your mulch at a maximum of 2.5-5cm in depth. However, if weed suppression is the primary role then 7.5cm is more suitable but beware: anything more can end up being wasted or could even cause further damage to certain plants and the soil.

How to spread mulch?

For those of us that have to walk over the soil to mulch, put down wooden boards to walk on to reduce compaction, and never dig it in unless you have a real compaction problem. Digging will only destroy all the structure you are trying to create. Simply allow all the creatures living in your soil to do the work for you while you sit back and wait in anticipation for the gardening year ahead.

If you’re looking for a mulching lawnmower, here’s our round up of the best. 

Choosing and buying seeds for the year ahead is an exciting task for a gardener and during the dark days of winter when being stuck indoors is the only option, flicking through seed catalogues is a welcome reminder that spring will return.  There are many seed suppliers to choose from, many of which are specialists in their field.

Here are the best places to buy seeds

With careful planning you’ll have the perfect selection of seeds for the next growing season. We’d recommend always checking the seed suppliers’ organic credentials and trying to pick seeds which will grow into plants that are perfect for wildlife.

For more inspiration on what to plant in your garden, don’t miss our advice on the best perennials and how to plant a wildlife garden.

For detailed advice on sowing seeds, head to our guide to planting seeds.

We’ve put together a list of our favourite seed suppliers, divided into flowers, vegetables and wild flowers, to give you a head start on your gardening year.

Jump to

• The best places to buy flower seeds
• The best places to buy vegetable seeds
• Where to buy wildflower seeds

The best seed suppliers in 2023

The best places to buy flower seeds

Chiltern Seeds

The Chiltern Seeds catalogue is always tempting with a selection of inspiring images. Cultivar choice is excellent and descriptions always helpful.

Crocus

Since starting out in the year 2000, Crocus has become the largest gardening website in the UK with around 4,000 plants and seeds available to buy.

Dobies

As international suppliers of flower and vegetable seeds, Dobies has sold products direct to gardeners since 1894.

Mr Fothergill’s
An extensive range of flower and vegetable seeds, including potato, onion and garlic sets. Plantsman Graham Rice writes a regular blog for the website, which provides useful discussion on some aspect of Mr Fothergill’s offerings.

Gardening Express

Online retailer Gardening Express now sells thousands of plants and seeds every week throughout the UK and Europe. If they don’t have a plant that you’re looking for then they’ll endeavour to get hold of it for you.

Great Dixter

If you’ve visited this iconic garden, you’ll have been delighted by its sheer exuberance, colour and range of plants through the season. The nursery offers flower seeds from its own stock chosen by the staff and students as notable. Seed is then harvested fresh by hand and supplied in glassine bags.

Higgledy Garden

Grower and owner Benjamin Ranyard trials a selection of flowers at his field in Suffolk. He then sells a range of seed specifically for the flower cutting patch – sometimes working with florists to ensure the best range. The Higgledy website also has plenty of growing tips and a monthly planting guide.

Plant World Seeds

Extensive range of seeds for flowers and vegetables but also trees and shrubs and grasses – many of them rare and unusual. It ships around the world.

Plants of Distinction

A small, family-run business based in Suffolk that has built up a good range of both flower and vegetables that rivals some of the larger, more commercial seed companies.

Primrose

Online retailer Primrose of Reading, Berkshire, has a large range of flower and vegetable seeds along with almost everything garden related.

Sarah Raven

Sarah is renowned for her carefully curated collections of traditional flowers for her cutting garden. Her seed selection is relatively small but you can be assured that those she has included are good ones.

Special Plants

Plantswoman Derry Watkins runs a fantastic nursery in a hidden valley near Bath. Her plant selection is impeccable and you’ll always find something of interest there. Added to which, she sells a range of flower seed too. Of particular note is her fresh seed.

Thompson & Morgan

Established in 1855, Thompson & Morgan has a wide range of seed for flowers and vegetables, regularly winning awards for its offerings. You’ll find plenty of choice on cultivars and good descriptions.

Unwins

Another of the big all-rounders with a wide range of seed – many offered as part of special deals – so worth keeping an eye out for seasonal promotions. Unwins is best known for its range of sweet peas, and has an ongoing breeding programme and extensive sweet pea trials each year.

The best places to buy vegetable seeds

Heritage Seed Library

Run by Garden Organic, the Heritage Seed Library is a members-only resource that offers a selection of rare, hard-to-get-hold-of, heritage vegetable seed – many of which have been lost to standard seed catalogues.

Jekka’s Herb Farm

If you are growing for flavour then herbs are an essential, and probably your best guide as to which to grow is award-winner Jekka McVicar. The nursery stocks 140 varieties of herb, with notables including winter purslane as an excellent winter salad crop; summer savoury, excellent with all forms of beans and pulses; and blue hyssop for its savoury minty/thyme flavour – and pollinator popular blue flowers.

Kings Seeds

Much of Kings Seeds stock comes from its own 300-acre farm. Good selection of vegetables and flower cultivars, including an organic range of vegetable seed. It also stocks the range from Suffolk Herbs.

Marshalls

A good all-rounder, with plenty of choice covering a range of different vegetables. The duo packs, with two complementary cultivars, are a great way to discover more of the variety available within one vegetable type and benefit from an extended harvesting season or variations in flavour.

Moles Seeds

An independent seed merchant with good selection sourced from some of the best seed producers. Anyone looking to current food trends should check the sections on crops best suited to baby leaf and microgreens harvesting. Although wholesale, Moles Seeds will supply anyone looking for larger quantities, so great for smallholding owners and gardening groups.

Seed Co-Operative

An initiative was set up on the belief that the future of food needs to be rooted in a diversity of genetics and wildlife. All seed are from open pollinated varieties, adapted to organic growing systems. Finalists in the 2017 BBC Food and Farming Awards.

Pennard Plants

A 2019 RHS Master Grower, Pennard Plants sells one of the largest selections of edible plants, heritage and heirloom seeds, fruits and herbs. All the stock is UK grown, many of it by themselves in their Victorian walled garden in Somerset. For those keen to grow their own plant protein, Pennard stocks amaranthus and quinoa seeds.

Real Seeds

Everything in Real Seeds’ offering has been chosen only after trialling to check its success both in the vegetable garden and in the kitchen. All seed are open pollinated (non-hybrid) so you can collect and resow your own seed from one year to the next.

Sea Spring Seeds

Every vegetable cultivar has been tested before it’s included in the catalogue. For 2019 it is encouraging us to try ‘mange tout’ chilli peppers. Cultivars such as ‘Hungarian Hot Wax’ and ‘Frigitello’ can be harvested small and either fried or grilled to be eaten whole in the same way as Padrón peppers.

Seeds of Italy

Paolo Arrigo who is a passionate seedsmen has declared a climate emergency on seed biodiversity. “In just 100 years, 94 per cent of the world’s heritage veg has gone,” says Paolo. Franchi focuses on the remaining six per cent, promoting them for their taste and regional diversity and including cultivars from the Slow Food Ark of Taste, the register of foods at risk of being lost.

Suttons

Nice, clear website that makes it easy to find what you want from Suttons’ all-round range of seeds. It also works with ethnobotanist James Wong to offer a range of vegetables and edible flower seeds that James has chosen for their focus on flavour and high nutritional value.

Tamar Organics

A good range of vegetables for the organic gardener along with helpful, clear, growing advice. Tamar Organics supports charity Joliba Trust working in central Mali to help fund horticultural projects.

Thomas Etty

Among the range of vegetables offered by Thomas Etty are 52 perennial vegetables – an option for grow your own often overlooked. Examples such as sea orach, tuberous pea, perennial broccoli and skirret are worth having a look at,  alongside more unusual veg choices, such as the pink ‘Roscoff’ onion from Brittany with its unique flavour good for eating raw or cooked and ‘Tall Telephone’  pea yielding eight to ten peas per large pod.

Chiltern seeds

There is always something to look forward to in Chiltern’s herb and vegetable selections. This year it has included British basil – selected specifically for growing in the UK and climbing bean ‘Cobra’, encouragingly resistant to a variable British summer. Look out for beetroot ‘Crapaudine’, new to Chiltern Seeds. This is one of the oldest beetroot cultivars, carrot shaped and with an oddly rough skin (resembling its namesake derived from the French for toad). Underneath is a richly coloured flesh with superior flavour.

Where to buy wildflower seeds

Emorsgate seeds

Run by committed botanists and ecologists to promote the importance not just of growing more wildflowers but of working with nature. Its wildflower and grass mixes are grouped by habitat, such as meadow, and then by soil type so you get the right mix of species for your area. Excellent whether you’re creating a large meadow area or simply want to increase the biodiversity in your garden.

Pictorial meadows

Seed mixes for annual and perennial meadow-style planting. These were originally developed by Nigel Dunnett from his work at the University of Sheffield and are aimed to provide impact of colour and lots of nectar-rich flower

Other resources

Seed swaps
If you are looking for recommended, locally suited, unusual cultivars of flowers and vegetables, try researching community seed swapping events. These are a great opportunity to meet other growers, hear first-hand of growing experiences and discover new favourites.

Wakehurst Seed Bank
And finally, a word for the wonder of seeds and the biodiversity they represent. The Millennium Seed Bank, at Wakehurst Place in Sussex, is Kew’s project to conserve 25 per cent of the world’s seeds to ensure against future extinction. See the website to find out more and discover the amazing science behind seeds.
kew.org/wakehurst

The glow of a fire pit or wood burner is a welcome sight during the winter months. The flickering flames, the cracking and popping of burning bark and the delightful smell of woodsmoke all help to forget the gloomy darkness outside. To help you prepare for the months ahead, we’ve picked the best wood for burning and give tips for stacking your log pile and building the perfect fire. For more, head to our piece on the best tools to chop kindling. and don’t miss our round up of the best log stores.

Here’s our guide to the best wood for wood burners

The best wood for wood burners

Ash

Ash tree wood produces a steady flame in fires with a good heat and burns well even when green. It will burn successfully on its own, so does not need to be burned in a mix of different species. Perfect wood for a wood burning stove or wood burner too. Traditionally said to be the best wood for burning.

Oak

Oak is the slowest wood to season, at approximately 2.5cm a year and ideally should be seasoned for a minimum of two years. Because of its density, it is a wood that’s slow to burn as firewood and is best used in a mix of faster-burning logs. This wood can help to keep the fire burning at night if required.

Birch

Birch makes excellent firewood for burning on a wood burner, stove or in an open fire. This wood produces a good heat, although it burns relatively quickly, so in a fire, it’s best to use it in a mix of slower-burning woods, such as elm or oak. Birch will burn unseasoned although the sap can cause a build up of deposits in the flue. The bark can be peeled off and used as a natural firelighter for wood or log burners.

Beech

Beech is a superb wood for burning, although it has a high water content so needs to be dried well; ideally, it should be seasoned for three years before use. It does not need to be burned in a mix and can be burned in a wood burning stove too.

Cherry

Cherry wood burns slowly with a good heat output in a fire or wood burning stove and gives off a lovely aroma. The logs need to be well seasoned, although strips of the bark can also be used as natural firelighters for your log burner or fire.

Sycamore

Sycamore burns well in a fire when seasoned with a moderate heat output. It seasons very quickly, usually within just one year and is one of the best woods for burning. This tree can be burned on a wood burner, stove or open fire as necessary.

How to stack firewood

• Keep your wood and logs as dry as possible
  The trick here is to do everything you can to keep them from getting wet or damp. Wet or damp logs will either never burn or will produce excess smoke that will line and clog your flue or – worse – escape into your room. Covering your stack of logs outside with a simple hard cover – a panel of wood propped up at both ends – will keep the rain off and still allow air to circulate around them and dry them out.
• Never stack your logs on the ground
  Your firewood needs constant air circulation to stay dry and combustable. An old wooden pallet makes an ideal base – something with plenty of gaps to keep that air moving.
• Make sure your wood burning logs are under cover
  But open on at least one side. This is particularly important if you use polythene to cover your logs as they need to breathe to avoid sweating. If you’re keeping them indoors you may want to invest in a log holder or similar indoor storage.
• When building the wood stack
  Stacking wood is like dry stone walling – there’s a knack to it that you just get better at with practice! Start at the outer edge, with a supporting wall or structure, and work inwards. Work on keeping the logs level – ie of consistent size side by side, or at least filling in the gaps with smaller logs as you go – and avoid any sloping in or out. Corners can be created with one layer being laid at 90 degrees to the next, similar to the brickwork on the corner of a house.

How to make a fire in your wood burning stove, log burner or open fire

Make sure your logs are dry and fully seasoned before you bring them indoors and use a good mix of species, as they will burn at different rates. Having a plentiful supply of components to hand is essential, especially on a cold, wet night. Keep a basket full of kindling wood close to the fire so that it’s ready for use at a moment’s notice.

And we’ve all wanted a real fire but haven’t bothered building one as we’ve not the time or can’t bear the trouble. Why not build your fire when you have a spare moment then it’ll be ready to go in an instant whenever you need it?

Here are our tips for how to light a fire.

• Soft flammable foundations
  Start with a good layer of loosely rolled balls of newspaper. Don’t toss on sheets. Scrumple each individually. That way the air can get in around them. Go for as fibrous a paper as possible – i.e. uncoated non-glossy newspaper. Avoid weekend supplements as many seem to be almost fireproof…
• Add a generous handful of kindling
  It’s easy to skimp here. You need A LOT in order to be able to toss on a leisurely larger log later. Skimp on the kindling – dry small splinters of wood to get the fire going – and you’ll be doing more tending than enjoying. Start with small pieces first and larger pieces last. Don’t lay them horizontally. Try to stack the pieces vertically on end – like a tee-pee – and don’t pack them too tightly.
• Finish with the logs
  If your burner or fireplace is big enough go ahead and add the first of your logs too. The first to go on should be smaller in size, ending with the largest on top. Your goal is to create a bed of embers that’ll hot enough to ignite larger logs as you add them one by one. Time your tending right and you’ll keep a fire going all night without needing to fuss around it.
• Light the paper and enjoy!
  Place a match (or lighter etc) to the paper in as many places as you can for maximum chance that at least one ignition point will take a hold. If you’ve followed the instructions above then your fire roar into life after a minute or two. Don’t get impatient and disturb your pile or you’ll allow the built up heat to escape. Give it your stack a blow or two at the base if you’re seeing burning edges but no flames and it’ll soon burst into life. Good luck!

Hebes are a genus of about 90 species of evergreen, long-flowering shrubs, some with coloured foliage that tend to form dense hummocks. Hebes were originally classified as species of Veronica, and more recent analysis has shown them to indeed be part of the Veronica genus where they may soon be moved back.

Watch how to grow hebe

When does hebe flower?

Most hebes originate in New Zealand with a few species scattered around the southern hemisphere. A hebe’s flowering period is from midsummer to mid autumn, with most flowering between June and September.

A hebe can grow between 40cm to 1.5m, and most hebes prefer poor, well-drained soil. They will withstand high winds and salt spray. Although some hebe plants are hardy, others can suffer from frost damage to new shoots. Most have a hardiness rating of RHS H3 or RHS H4 and are suitable for gardens in USDA zones 8a to 10b.

Jump to

• When to prune hebe
• How to take hebe cuttings
• The best soil for hebe
• Why plant hebe?
• The best hebe plants for your garden

Hebe: how to care for, prune and grow hebe

When to prune hebe

A light, annual pruning will keep the neat, compact shape of hebe plants and ensure that they flower well. Immediately after they have finished flowering simply cut out the dead hebe flowers. After a harsh winter some stems may have been burnt by frost. Inspect your hebe at the end of March and prune away any damaged stems, cutting back to a live bud. I have seen small-leaved hebes tightly clipped into balls as an alternative to box. This looks attractive but does mean that the flowers are sacrificed.

How to take hebe cuttings

It is ironic that a plant named for the Greek goddess of youth should be short-lived. Although some hebes will still be looking good after a decade or so, most will perform at their best for a shorter time and then need to be replaced. A hebe is one of the easiest shrubs to take cuttings from, so rather than buying a replacement plant, have a go at propagating your own hebe. Begin the process as soon as your hebe starts to look sad, and by the time you need to remove it you will have a new plant ready.

Cuttings can be taken from mid July until early September. Using sharp secateurs, cut off stems of the current season’s growth that are about 15-20cm long. Immediately pop these into a plastic bag and keep them in the shade until you are indoors and ready to pot them.

Fill your containers with a proprietary cuttings compost or a mix of 50 per cent compost and 50 per cent horticultural grit, then water the pot and allow it to drain. A 9cm pot will take three or four hebe cuttings. Prepare the cuttings by shortening them to about 10-15cm long, cutting just below the point where a set of leaves is growing. Remove the lower leaves and snip off the tip of the hebe cutting. Push the cutting into the compost, close to the edge of the pot.

If you want belt-and-braces security, you can dip the end of the hebe cutting in hormone rooting powder or rooting gel. If you have a greenhouse or cold frame, store the cuttings there, otherwise cover the pot and cuttings with a plastic bag in a light, warm place away from direct sunlight. Regularly remove the bag to reduce the humidity around the cuttings. By the following spring, the cuttings will have rooted and can be transplanted into individual pots filled with a loam-based potting compost.

You may also like

• The best garden erythroniums
• How to care for and plant garden corydalis
• The best garden scilla

The best soil for hebe

Hebe plants need poor, well-drained soil in an open, sunny situation. Ignore the usual advice to incorporate compost when you plant shrubs and don’t give them an annual feed. Too rich a soil will encourage weak, lax growth for your hebe that will be susceptible to frost damage. If you have heavy soil, digging lots of horticultural grit into the area before you plant will increase the likelihood of your hebe thriving. Hebes do not like cold wind, so try to plant them in a sheltered area.

Why plant hebe?

On paper, hebe plants have a lot going for them – they are long flowering, easy to grow, and evergreen. Nevertheless, despite their many qualities, they are not in fashion. Why this should be is rather puzzling; surely they deserve more recognition.

Part of the reason might be that some designers have not yet found a place for neat domes of a hebe in the naturalistic froth of perennials and grasses that currently dominates their work. Moreover, they have a reputation for being short-lived. There are signs, however, that the tide is starting to turn in the favour of hebe plants as dynamic breeders are starting to produce new cultivars, often with notable foliage.

Most hebes form hummocks that can, with a little imagination, be used in many garden settings. Some can be clipped into neat domes that are at ease among the clean lines of contemporary gardens. I have seen the solidity of groups of dwarf hebes looking wonderful as a background to clouds of Sporobolus heterolepis. It is a combination that would work well with other grasses and airy perennials. Low hedges of hebe are often used as a windbreak in exposed coastal gardens and the same planting could be used to protect and enclose herbaceous plantings in inland gardens. Some of the newer introductions have been specifically bred for pots and containers and for small, urban gardens. It remains to be seen whether hebes become sought after but a plant that is so versatile and so beautiful should nevertheless be seriously considered in any garden.

The best hebe plants for your garden

Hebe ‘Pascal’

A hebe that is a truly spectacular sight during the winter when the narrow, lance-shaped leaves turn a vibrant burgundy colour. During the summer the foliage is apple-green and the flowers are a delicate pale blue. 50cm. AGM*. RHS H4†.

Buy Hebe Pascal from Crocus

Buy Hebe Pascal from the RHS

Buy Hebe Pascal from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe ‘Northern Lights’

A striking hebe plant launched two years ago that has variegated foliage comprising oval, grey-green leaves with wide, cream margins. The new growth on this hebe has dark stems and pink-edged leaves, which complement the purple flowers. 1m. RHS H3.

Find out more about Hebe Northern Lights at the RHS

Hebe ‘Sparkling Sapphires’

This variegated hebe is a recent introduction. The young leaves have a pale margin that ages to a creamy yellow in May and June. A floriferous plant that has masses of pale-blue blooms. 50cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Sparkling Sapphires from the RHS

Buy Hebe Sparkling Sapphires from Garden Beauty

Hebe buxifolia ‘Nana’

A dense, rounded hebe shrub with small, elliptical, glossy leaves, about 1cm long, that resemble those of boxwood. The pale-lavender flowers appear at the tips of the stems in July. A robust cultivar that requires little maintenance. 30cm.

Buy Hebe Buxifolia Nana from Gardening Express

Buy Hebe Buxifolia Nana from OnBuy

Hebe ‘Heartbreaker’

A hebe grown primarily for its colourful foliage. During the summer the leaves are green with a white border but in autumn they turn pale purple and pink. Lavender-coloured racemes of flowers in summer. 75cm. RHS H3.

Buy Hebe Heartbreaker from the RHS

Buy Hebe Heartbreaker from Crocus

Hebe Garden Beauty Blue (= ‘Cliv’)

60cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Blue from the RHS

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Blue from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe Starlight (= ‘Marklight’)

The combination of green and cream variegated foliage and dazzling, bright-white flowers on this hebe attracted a lot of attention when this cultivar was first introduced in 2018. 1m. RHS H3.

Buy Hebe Starlight from the RHS

Buy Hebe Starlight from Hayloft

Hebe Blue Ice (= ‘Lowapb’)

Raised by Lowaters and introduced in 2013, this hebe was selected for its compact shape and bright-green foliage. Masses of pale-blue flowers on upright spikes appear for about six weeks in midsummer. 50cm.

Buy Hebe Blue Ice from the RHS

Buy Hebe Blue Ice from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe ‘Red Edge’

A popular hybrid hebe that was introduced in the 1960s. The glaucous leaves have a red margin that becomes even more pronounced in winter. The small flowers are pale mauve. 60cm. AGM. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Red Edge from Crocus

Buy Hebe Red Edge from the RHS

Hebe Garden Beauty Purple (= ‘Nold’)

A rounded and compact hebe shrub that has small, deep-green leaves. The purple flowers first appear in early June and become paler as they age. 65cm. RHS H4, USDA 8a-10a.

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Purple from the RHS

Buy Hebe Garden Beauty Purple from Thompson & Morgan

Hebe Blush Elegance (= ‘Lowele’)

A large and floriferous hebe shrub with glossy, green foliage that is covered with soft-pink flowers from July through to October. The flowers fade almost to white as they age. 1.2m. RHS H3.

Buy Hebe Blush Elegance from the RHS

Buy Hebe Blush Elegance from Garden Beauty

Hebe Midnight Sky  (= ‘Lowten’)

A startling sight in winter when the glossy, green leaves turn deep purple, sometimes looking almost black. The flowers appear from June to August and are a purplish-pink colour. 75cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Midnight Sky from the RHS

Buy Hebe Midnight Sky from Garden Beauty

Hebe ‘Caledonia’

A compact, rounded hebe plant that is ideal for a container. The striking, dark-green leaves have a red edge and are entirely plum-coloured when they emerge. Violet flowers from late spring to early autumn. 60cm. AGM. RHS H4, USDA 7a-10b.

Buy Hebe Caledonia from the RHS

Buy Hebe Caledonia from J. Parker’s

Hebe ‘Baby Marie’

A low-growing, compact hebe that makes a good flowering plant. The flowers are pink in bud, opening to a pale lilac and fading to white. An early flowering form that blooms in April and May. 40cm. RHS H4.

Buy Hebe Baby Marie from Gardening Express

Buy Hebe Baby Marie from the RHS

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When the pioneer hellebore breeders of the 1960s, Eric Smith and Jim Archibald, began the journey to the startling colours and forms that we have today, simple species hellebores played a crucial part. These plantsmen brought wild hellebore species together with each other and with existing selections and cultivars, creating the colours and colour combinations that are now so desirable.

The pale greens of Helleborus odorus subsp. cyclophyllus, the purples, slate-blues and dark veins of Helleborus torquatus, and the speckles of Helleborus orientalis subsp. guttatus all played their part. Even some of the first double-flowered forms came from plants of Helleborus torquatus collected in the wild.

The wild species that went into creating our modern cultivars are also fascinating to grow. These hellebore flowers are not large, and are often green and sometimes have a fragrance. But while these species were used by breeders, hellebore enthusiasts also began to collect wild species for their own refinement and, sometimes, prolific flowering.

These wild hellebore species may not have the obvious impact of today’s garden hellebore hybrids, but those with a sense of history and an eye for detail will appreciate their role in the development of our favourite winter flowers and enjoy their quieter beauty.

• Where to plant species hellebores
• Caring for species hellebores
• Propagating species hellebores
• Where to buy species hellebores

How to grow species hellebores

Where to plant species hellebores

Hellebore species vary in their needs. The stemless species are usually happy in good garden soil in at least some shade; the more open the situation, the more moisture hellebores require.

Helleborus foetidus and its cultivars are best in dappled shade or in a perennial border where taller, later-flowering plants provide summer shade.

Helleborus argutifolius is unexpectedly adaptable, but the tall stems often need a plant support. The much smaller, closely related Helleborus lividus appreciates frost protection, and thrives in terracotta pots in a cold greenhouse or sheltered porch. The hybrid between the two, Helleborus x sternii, is a fine plant for winter containers, and some forms have exceptionally beautiful foliage as well as pretty flowers.

Hot, dry summers, along with protection from summer moisture and from winter frosts, are needed for the dramatic Helleborus vesicarius. A large cloche is usually sufficient for this purpose. Plants can either be grown in the border or in a large pot in an unheated greenhouse.

Caring for species hellebores

Cut off the foliage of both evergreen and deciduous hellebore species in late autumn or early winter to prevent the carry-over of disease.

Deadhead to prevent the proliferation of unwanted hybrid seedlings.

Mulch with weed-free organic matter in autumn helps maintain vigour and deter weeds.

Lift and divide stemless hellebore species in September or October and either replant at once or pot into 12cm pots and grown on for a year in a cold frame or a sheltered site outside before planting.

Provide taller-stemmed varieties with a plant support, especially in exposed locations.

Propagating species hellebores

Many of these hellebore forms can be propagated by seed, which should be sown promptly, as it ripens, in early summer. Seed needs a warm and moist period followed by cooling temperatures. Hellebore seedlings usually emerge in winter or early spring, but germination can be unpredictable. Seed-raised plants may take some years to flower.

None of the tall-stemmed hellebore types are amenable to division and seed rarely comes true unless bees are excluded during flowering time.

Where to buy species hellebores

• Ashwood Nurseries
  Ashwood Lower Lane, Kingswinford, West Midlands DY6 0AE.
  Tel 01384 401996, ashwoodnurseries.com
  The nursery has a beautiful winter garden and runs hellebore tours in February and March, with an opportunity to purchase specially selected plants (check website for dates).
• Hazles Cross Farm Nursery
  Hollins Lane, Kingsley, Staffordshire ST10 2EP.
  Tel 01538 752669, hazlescrossfarmnursery.co.uk
  Holds the National Collection of hellebores. This comprises all known species, with many forms of each on display. Plants for sale, by telephone.

Species hellebores to grow

Helleborus argutifolius 

The Corsican hellebore is a bold evergreen with upright, woody stems topped with clusters of up to 30 flowers, 3-5cm in width, above large, leathery leaves split into three spiny leaflets. An adaptable hellebore but best in full sun; staking is wise. Flowers January to March. 90cm-1m. RHS H5, USDA 6a-10b.

Buy Helleborus argutifolius from Crocus

Helleborus foetidus 

The dark, evergreen, narrow foliage of the stinking hellebore (so called as its foliage gives off an unpleasant scent when crushed) is held on upright woody stems topped with small, prolific, red-edged, tubular flowers. One of two British native hellebore species, try any cultivar, especially the red-tinted Wester Flisk Group. Flowers January to May. 90cm-1.2m. AGM. RHS H7, USDA 5a-9b.

Buy Helleborus foetidus from Crocus

Helleborus atrorubens 

Deciduous leaves have up to 15 divisions. The small, flowers are mainly green inside with reddish-purple backs. Still confused with the Helleborus orientalis cultivar once known as ‘Atrorubens’, now called Early Purple Group. Flowers February to March. 25-35cm. RHS H5, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus atrorubens from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus odorus 

Usually evergreen, with the young foliage covered in silvery hairs, and maturing with up to 11 divisions. The apple-green flowers of this hellebore are large (4-7cm in width) and are fragrant, although opinions differ on the quality of the scent. Flowers December to March. 45-55cm. RHS H5, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus odorus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus multifidus subsp. istriacus

Deciduous, with rather large, 5cm, green flowers, sometimes tinted purple, often scented. Relatively undivided foliage this hellebore is split into up to 12 broad leaflets, sometimes tinted bronze as they unfurl. Flowers February to April. 20-30cm. RHS H6, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus multifidus subsp. istriacus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus torquatus

Bringing rich, dark, even bluish colour to hybrids and often puzzling botanists, the 3-4cm flowers of this hellebore vary in colour and pattern, with some pretty, dark-veined forms. The deciduous leaves may be tinted purple when young. Flowers January to March. 20-35cm. RHS H7, USDA 6a-8b.

Buy Helleborus torquatus from Rare Plants

Helleborus liguricus 

Deciduous foliage is split into about 11 broad leaflets. This form differs from the similar Helleborus bocconei in holding the whiteish-green flowers well above the foliage and in having a strong, sweet scent. Flowers November to February. 25-30cm. RHS H7, USDA 5a-8b.

Buy Helleborus liguricus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus viridis subsp. occidentalis 

Deciduous foliage is spilt into up to 20 slim, toothed leaflets, sometimes purple-tinted when young, with dark-green flowers 2-4cm in width. One of two British native hellebore species. Flowers February to March. 20-35cm. RHS H7, USDA 6a-9b.

Buy Helleborus viridis from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus orientalis subsp. abchasicus

Evergreen, with bold, dark foliage split into as many as 11 divisions and with red-tinted flowers 5cm in width. This form brings purple nectaries to some cultivars. Helleborus orientalis subsp. abchasicus Early Purple Group is reliably early flowering. Flowers December to March. 40-45cm. RHS H7, USDA 3a-9b.

Buy Helleborus orientalis subsp. abchasicus from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus vesicarius 

The bold, buttercup-like foliage lasts from November to June and the whole plant dies back for summer. The tubular, deep-purple-brown flowers are pale-green at the tips and mature into large, fat, inflated pods. Flowers February to April. 45-50cm. RHS H6, USDA 8a-9b.

Buy Helleborus versicarius from Rare Plants

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Crab apple trees have a lot to offer. The perfect trees for small gardens, crab apples are compact and inject colour and interest into the garden all year round. In spring, the trees produce clouds of blossom that can’t fail to lift the spirits, while the fruits and foliage provide rich autumnal colour.

Crab apple trees flower even when young, often blooming when two or three years old, so they’re a great choice if you want a tree that performs quickly. The blossom is also invaluable to pollinators. There are many cultivars that are suited to cooking – especially to make crab apple jelly – so in all, they are versatile little trees.

Jump to

• What is a crab apple?
• When to prune crab apple trees
• The best crab apple trees to buy for blossom, foliage and fruit
• Where to see crab apple trees

Here are the reasons to grow crab apple trees

Everything you need to know about crab apple tree

What is a crab apple?

Few of the crab apples we grow in gardens are descended from our native crab apple tree (Malus sylvestris); most are derived from one or more of the 40 other wild species that grow in the temperate regions of Europe, Asia and North America. They make large shrubs or small trees, flowering prolifically, colourfully and often fragrantly in white, pink or purple in spring or early summer. Those with red flower buds opening to white flowers are the most dramatic in flower.

The autumn crop of colourful crab apple fruits often lasts well into the winter, as birds seem to leave them until last. Crab apple fruits can be small, some little more than 10mm across, but a few are as large as 5cm and weigh down the branches impressively. They can be yellow, golden, orange, scarlet, crimson red or dark purple; the yellow and orange fruits may be overlaid with pink or red.

Don’t miss our crab apple jelly recipe

Crab apples are self fertile, which means they don’t need another tree nearby to pollinate them. In fact, one crab apple tree can serve as pollinator for a wide range of culinary apple varieties nearby. They have a longer flowering season than culinary apples – and produce up to ten times as much pollen – so if you have at least one crab apple tree, neither you nor your neighbours need worry about the pollination of culinary apples.

When to prune crab apple trees

Crab apple trees need little or no pruning but dead, diseased or crossing branches can be removed in winter.

The best crab apple trees to buy for blossom, foliage and fruit

Malus ‘John Downie’

Discovered in Staffordshire in 1875, Malus ‘John Downie’ is considered one of the finest of crab apples. In spring, pale pink buds open to white flowers, which are much loved by pollinators. These are followed by striking oval orange-red fruits. In autumn, the leaves turn fiery shades of yellow and orange before falling. Its upright narrow habit, which becomes more conical with age, makes it a useful tree for a small or urban garden.

Grow Malus ‘John Downie’ in a sunny, sheltered spot for the best results. Height 10m.

Malus Sugar Tyme (=‘Sutyzam’)

The pale-pink buds of Malus Sugar Tyme (=’Sutyzam’) open to white flowers. The glossy red crab apple fruits are small but make an impressive display among autumn leaves. Noted for its excellent resistance to scab, this crab apple tree copes well with other diseases too. Height 6m.

Buy Malus Sugar Tyme now from Ornamental Trees

Malus ‘Sun Rival’

Malus ‘Sun Rival’ is by far the best weeping crab apple – the branches sometimes sweep the ground. It has deep red buds that fade to pink then open to white, pink-tinted blossoms. It bears bright red fruits in autumn. Height 4m. AGM.

Malus x atrosanguinea ‘Gorgeous’

Malus x atrosanguinea ‘Gorgeous’ has lightly blushed white flowers, given a starry look by narrow petals. These are followed by deep-red, sometimes orange-tinted crab apple fruits that persist for months on the tree. They make unusually good crab apple jelly. Height 5m. AGM.

Buy Malus x atrosanguinea ‘Gorgeous’ crab apple tree from Primrose

Malus ‘Evereste’

Malus ‘Evereste’ is a great choice for any garden as it looks good almost all year round. In spring, the scarlet flower buds fade to pink before opening into a flurry of unusually large, white flowers. Once pollinated, these then turn into to yellowish-orange fruits with a red flush that last on the tree well into winter. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow and bronze before falling, giving an additional season of interest. Originally marketed as a patio crab apple thanks its upright, conical shape, Malus ‘Evereste’ is an excellent tree for a small garden. Height 7m. AGM.

Malus ‘Butterball’

Malus ‘Butterball’ is a spreading crab apple tree with an appealing, slightly pendulous habit, especially when in fruit. Pink buds open to blushed-white flowers. The golden-yellow fruits that follow develop reddish tints on the tops or sides wherever they are not shaded. Height 4m. AGM.

Malus ‘Comtesse de Paris’

The white flowers of Malus ‘Comtesse de Paris’ are followed by slightly pointed, golden-yellow fruits that last well into winter. This crab apple is more balanced in shape than the similar ‘Golden Hornet’ and more resistant to scab. Height 4m. AGM.

Buy Malus ‘Comtesse de Paris’ now from Crocus

Malus ‘Adirondack’

Often sold as ‘Admiration’, Malus ‘Arindonack’ is valuable in small spaces, thanks to its upright habit. Deep, carmine-pink buds open to clusters of pure white flowers followed by pinkish-red fruits. An excellent crab apple pollinator. Height 5.5m. AGM.

Buy Malus ‘Arindonack’ now from Crocus

Malus x zumi ‘Professor Sprenger’

The pink flower buds of Malus x zumi ‘Professor Sprenger’ fade to blush before opening white. The scented flowers on this crab apple are followed by amber fruits that deepen to orange. This crab apple also benefits from yellow autumn foliage and exceptional disease resistance. Height 6m.

Buy Malus x zumi ‘Professor Sprenger’ now from Pippin Trees

Malus ‘Wisley Crab’

The rich, purplish-pink flowers of Malus ‘Wisley Crab’, dark towards the centre of each petal, open against the purple-tinted green foliage. These are followed by purplish-red fruit, which are red inside and the size of a small eating apple. Height 3m.

Buy Malus ‘Wisley Crab’ now from Keepers Nursery

Malus ‘Indian Magic’

Malus ‘Indian Magic’ is a broadly spreading but upright crab apple tree with deep-pink flowers that open from even darker buds. Later small, rather elongated orange fruits become red and last well into winter. Disease resistance is good. Height 5m. AGM.

Buy Malus ‘Indian Magic’ now from Crocus

Malus x robusta ‘Red Sentinel’

Malus x robusta ‘Red Sentinel’ has fragrant white spring flowers that open from pale pink buds. Large, glossy, deep-red fruits follow and last almost until spring. It also has yellow autumn leaf colour and impressive disease resistance. Height 8m. AGM.

Buy Malus x robusta from Primrose

Malus ‘Harry Baker’

The huge purplish-pink flowers of Malus ‘Harry Baker’ open against purple foliage that fades to green, followed by ruby-red fruits. The tree was named for a fruit foreman at RHS Garden Wisley. It has good disease resistance and makes a superb crab apple jelly. Height 5m. AGM.

Buy Malus ‘Harry Baker’ now from Pippin Trees

Malus toringo ‘Scarlett’

As well as offering pink spring flowers and long-lasting purple fruits, Malus toringo ‘Scarlett’ also provides leaves that are purple as they unfurl then mature to fiery orange and yellow in autumn. This crab apple’s slightly weeping growth only adds to the appeal. Height 4m. AGM.

Buy Malus toringo ‘Scarlett’ now from Crocus

Where to see crab apple trees

National Collection holders:

Brogdale Collections
Brogdale Farm, Brogdale Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 8XZ.
Tel 01795 536250, brogdalecollections.co.uk

Christabella Charitable Trust
Barnards Farm, Brentwood Road, West Horndon, Essex CM13 3LX.
Tel 01277 811262, barnardsfarm.eu

Jodrell Bank Discovery Centre
The University of Manchester, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK11 9DL.
Tel 01477 571766, jodrellbank.net

The trees growing in British hedgerows are often the most common. If you grew up in the countryside, you will no doubt be familiar with the old wives tales associated to the hawthorn bush and the joy of moulding hazel twigs into trusty, but harmless, weapons. Here, Lia Leendertz explains how you can identify the much-loved rowan, hawthorn and crab apple trees throughout the seasons and lists key features of each.

Sorbus aucuparia – Rowan

The rowan tree lives a double life. Due to its extreme hardiness and its tolerance of tough conditions, rowan is found higher up mountainsides than any other tree except the silver birch, and is often called the mountain ash because of this. But it is also one of the most domesticated of trees, often planted well away from its wilder habitat. It frequents gardens in towns and in the countryside, where it never gets too big for its bounds and its neat habit, pretty spring blossom and autumn display of lipstick-red berries can be appreciated up close. This association of homes and rowans is not purely ornamental, however, and harks back to a belief that the rowan has protective qualities. It has long been widely planted near doorways as protection against witches and other bad spirits.

1. Bark

   The bark is smooth, shiny and grey. Winter twigs are grey and young trees have hairy buds.
   

   © Jason Ingram

2. Leaves

   The leaves comprise between six and eight pairs of leaflets, and bear a similarity to ash leaves. Each individual leaflet has a serrated edge.
   

   © Jason Ingram

3. Flowers

   Creamy-white heads of five-petalled flowers appear in April and May. They have an unpleasant smell, but are attractive to insects.
   

4. Berries

   Heavy bunches of beautiful, bright-red, shiny berries are produced in September and October. Each individual berry bears a tiny star. Birds, especially waxwings, love to feast on the berries.
   

   © Jason Ingram

5. Silhouette

   A graceful and open-canopied tree, neat, round-headed and open in stature. It grows to a maximum of around 15m and can live for as long as 200 years.
   

Malus sylvestris – Crab apple

One of the prettiest small trees there is, the crab apple is more often seen in gardens than it is in the wild. Its compact size and two distinct seasons of interest make it suitable for small gardens: in spring it is covered in big white and pink blossom, and in autumn it bears beautiful miniature apples that can hang on the tree for months. However, it can still be found in relics of old oak woodlands and in sheltered spots on the edges of forests, as well as in hedgerows. It is an ancestor of the cultivated apple and can live for up to 100 years, becoming ever more gnarled and twisted as it ages. Lichens cover the branches of older trees and the crab apple is one of the few plants that plays host to mistletoe, so you may see evergreen bunches of this Christmas favourite in the branches once the leaves have fallen.

1. Bark

   The rough, flecked, grey-brown bark cracks as it ages, the trunk grows gnarled and twisted, and the twigs can develop spines.
   

2. Leaves

   Mid-green leaves are round to oval, with serrated edges and a pointed tip that leans to one side. They are borne alternately along the branch.
   

3. Flowers

   The beautiful, simple, open blossom appears around April. The pink buds open to pure-white, five-petalled flowers with pink backs to the petals. It has a sweet scent that is attractive to insects.
   

4. Crab apples

   Round, green, cherry-sized apples are produced in September and slowly ripen to yellow by around October. They are a good source of winter food for birds.
   

5. Silhouette

   The crab apple grows to around 10m in height and has a wide, rounded, spreading canopy that is often open and irregular. It grows craggy, twisted and characterful with age.
   

Crataegus monogyna – Hawthorn

Hawthorn is one of the most common plants in the English countryside, and is most often seen as a hedge around permanent pasture. This is because it has been the principal plant of field enclosure since Tudor times, its dense, spiny growth making a perfect stock-proof hedge. It has several common names – hawthorn, quickthorn, whitethorn and May – the latter after the month in which it produces frothy white flowers, one of the spectacles of the natural year. It is also seen as a gnarled and characterful small tree, particularly in more remote areas. Leaves and flowers are sometimes added to salads, and the berries are used in jam making and to create syrup rich in vitamin C. There are many superstitions around hawthorn, and bringing branches into the house is associated with illness and death.

1. Bark

   Very young stems have a reddish colour turning red-brown, with thorns protruding below the leaf joints and sometimes at the tips of the shoots. Older bark is brown, fissured and cracked.
   

2. Leaves

   The small, bright-green leaves are as broad as they are long and deeply lobed, cut at least halfway to the central leaf rib. They turn buttery yellow in autumn.
   

3. Flowers 

   Small, white, five-petalled flowers appear after the leaves in May (an easy way to distinguish hawthorn from blackthorn). They have a strong and not particularly pleasant scent.
   

4. Berries

   Around October, the dark-red haws mature in clusters. They are loved by birds, particularly in the later part of winter.
   

5. Silhouette

   Most often grown as a thick hedge, but in remote spots it can be seen as a gnarled and twisted small tree with a spreading, uneven canopy.
   

Don’t miss The best wood for burning

Bonfire Night is a much anticipated event in the UK, with many households hosting their own parties with bonfires, fire pits and fireworks. It is held on the 5 November and is a fun night of the year that is often used as an excuse to get together with family and friends.

Meanwhile the shift in temperature in autumn brings with it changes in the habits of our garden visitors. Birds are often on the hunt for food which becomes more scarce, hedgehogs will hibernate and many animals will go into a state of reduced activity to survive the winter months. Our gardens can become safe havens for wildlife at this time.

Although we don’t want to dampen the fun, Bonfire Night can be a stressful and harmful time for animals if not enjoyed responsibly. Here, we’ve rounded up some of the best ways to keep wildlife and pets safe on Guy Fawkes night.

Here’s the best wood for wood burners

Protecting animals on Bonfire Night

Build your bonfire on the day

A great way to ensure that there aren’t any hibernating hedgehogs or amphibians in your bonfire is to build the pile of wood on the day of lighting it.

Check your bonfire before lighting it 

Even if you’ve just built it, but especially if it’s been standing for a few days or weeks, check your bonfire pile thoroughly before lighting it to ensure no animals have crept in.

Create alternative shelter 

To deter animals from making themselves comfortable in your bonfire pile, ensure that there are other piles of logs, twigs and leaves around the garden that can provide shelter. You can also build hedgehog houses in the garden and insect hotels to keep beasties out of the bonfire.

Create your bonfire in a cleared area

Be sure that your bonfire is situated in a clear area in order to cause as little disturbance as possible to surrounding habitats and trees.

Put the bonfire out properly

Make sure that you extinguish your fire fully at the end of the night. Fires left unattended can spread and destroy large areas of habitat.

Clean up decorations

After the festivities, be sure to get all of the sparklers and other decorative debris picked up from the garden as soon as possible.

Be smart with fireworks

Fireworks can cause severe distress to wildlife and pets. In 2021, the RSPCA received 11,785 reports of animals in distress between October and January. The best way to avoid disturbing animals would be to visit an organised fireworks event. These tend to be held in large open spaces and with specific timings that allow pet owners to prepare. 68% of the animals reportedly affected in RSCPA data were by private displays and 94% of these did not have prior notice that fireworks were going to be set off. If you are going to set off fireworks at home, be sure to inform all of your neighbours about timings, as unpredictability of days and times of displays can make this time of year really stressful for pets and their owners. Also try to set them off away from trees and hedgerows for the benefit of birds.

Keep Catherine wheels away from trees

Pin up Catherine wheels on specially placed posts rather than nailing them to trees.

Put some music on

For pets, the sound of fireworks can be really frightening. Playing music in the house to try and mask the unpredictable sounds can help.

For inspiration of what else to do in autumn, take a look at our favourite autumn gardens to visit. 

Creating a late summer border is an exciting challenge. It needs vivid colours and textures, a wide range of plants, and a little luck with the weather. On top of all of that there is the hidden desire to make those colours last until the first frost arrives, maybe even longer. Gardener Andrea Brusendorf, who has created this bold design always uses plants that she has worked with before or has seen growing in other gardens. Those with flowers whose colour, height, spread and texture last well past the changing of the clocks.

Many of the plants that she has chosen for this border are ones that she grew in the Inner Temple Garden borders. She has spent many long summer days with them, learning their habits, revelling in their form. Here she explains in more detail how she came up with the plan and offers advice and time on when to plant and where to buy your garden plants from.

Andrea’s top tips for designing a bold planting plan

• Late flowering annuals and perennials are in general sun lovers with strong colours and they need a full solar blast to prolong their flowering period.
• It may be difficult to imagine that yellow, orange, red and blue can harmonise, but they do because the greens and greys in their foliage and stems soften those strong contrasts. Also, the light during the late summer mellows the most vivid colours.
• Beware of using white (for instance Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Purity’) which I have found impossible to integrate successfully into yellows, oranges, reds and blues, because it is too dominant.
• Besides colour and structure, combination is another ruling I keep in mind when I decide how many plants to use and where to position them. A single clump, like three Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’, should be in proportion to the overall area, otherwise the border will seem bitty and too busy.
• Repeating colours, shapes and textures create rhythm and cohesion; for instance I will repeat the feathery texture of Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’ with Salvia uliginosa and other grasses.
• There is value in transition or ‘see-through’ plants, like Verbena bonariensis and Persicaria orientalis, which will break up the solidity of clumps such as Helenium ‘Sahin’s Early Flowerer’, and add an ethereal note to a border that would otherwise look too chunky.

Best time to plant

September is a good time for planning and laying out a new border as the soil will still be warm. This is an excellent opportunity to spread masses of well-rotted compost or manure to improve the organic matter content of your soil. Double-digging is excellent, but just forking it in is better than not adding anything at all. To help you to visualise the eventual sizes of plant clumps, mark out a square with bamboo canes and then use smaller canes to estimate the spread of the individual plants.

Wait until spring before planting out the asters, heleniums and salvias – they hate cold, wet feet when trying to establish themselves. Sow Verbena bonariensis in September and over-winter in a frost-free environment with plenty of light. Cosmos and Tithonia rotundifolia ‘Torch’ are grown easily from seeds, even on a window sill, from early April onwards. Persicaria orientalis is best grown by scattering seeds in March/April in situ. Keep an eye on this one because it has the tendency to self-seed freely, but the large seedlings are easily spotted and they can be weeded out.

The tubers of Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ are easily grown on in pots from March onwards in a warm setting. Other dahlias are less available, but cuttings can be grown on in a frost-free, light environment for planting out in June. Dahlia imperialis, a tree dahlia, is grown for its foliage, but with the luck of a hot summer and no early frosts it may flower for you in mid-December – and to protect it during the winter cover the root plate with a 20cm layer of dry wood chips. Don’t cut the grasses until late winter – or even early spring if the winter winds haven’t wreaked havoc.

Plant list and quantities used

Amicia zygomeris

Tender perennial grown for foliage. Yellow flowers. Height 2.5m. Plants used x3

Tithonia rotundifolia ‘Torch’

Annual with bright orange-red flowers. Height 2m. Plants used x10

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’

Grass with silver plumes. Height 2.5m. Plants used x3

Buy Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’ from Thompson & Morgan

Dahlia imperialis

Tender perennial grown for foliage and bamboo-like stems. Height 4m. Plants used x2

Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’

Tender perennial with dark foliage and vivid red blooms. Height 1.5m. Plants used x3

Here’s how to grow dahlias

Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’

Grass with stiff, bronze feathery flowerheads. Height 1.8m. Plants used x3

Helenium ‘Wesergold’

Perennial with clear lemon yellow flowers. Height 1.5m. Plants used x5

Salvia ‘Indigo Spires’

Tender perennial, long blue flower spikes. Height 1.7m. Plants used x5

Don’t miss our guide to salvias

Rosa ‘Florence Mary Morse’

Vigorous Floribunda with red flowers. Height 2m plus. Plants used x1

Salvia uliginosa

Tender perennial with sky-blue flowers. Height 1.5m. Plants used x5

Don’t miss our piece on salvias to grow

Helenium ‘Sahin’s Early Flowerer’

Perennial with reddish-orange flowers. Height 1.5m. Plants used x3

Geranium Rozanne (=’Gerwat’)

Perennial, violet-blue. Height 0.6m. Plants used x6

Here’s our guide to hardy geranium

Clematis ‘Alionushka’

Climber, bell-shaped mauve pink flowers. Height 2m. Plants used x2

Read more about clematis here 

Dahlia ‘Hillcrest Royal’

Tender perennial with glowing red-purple flowers. Height 1.5m. Plants used x5

Miscanthus nepalensis

Tender grass, gold-tinted feathers. Height 1.5m. Plants used x3

Persicaria orientalis

Annual with rose-red flower spikes. Height 1.2m. Plants used x7

Buy Persicaria Orientalis from Sarah Raven

Read our guide to persicaria

Three golden rules

There are three vital tasks to do to keep your border looking good for as long as possible.

1. The first is regular dead-heading to encourage the production of new buds, thus extending the flowering season right into the autumn.
2. Secondly, apply a monthly feed during the active growing season.
3. And thirdly, though possibly the most important, is to stake those plants liable to flop about after heavy summer rains when they are still in bud.

A bit more about staking…
Stake asters, dahlias and heleniums when they have reached 45cm. It is worthwhile tying-in each stem individually with a loop in a long circle from a cane at the rear. It is time-consuming but it keeps the plant within its circular support of strings. In our large borders I can spend three or four weeks staking all my perennials (and even some of my annuals) in the early summer and every year those wet and windy summer days confirm it was time well spent.

However, I have not found the need to stake Tithonia, salvias or the tree dahlias, which seem to have sturdy legs. The Clematis ‘Alionushka’ should have some form of support, such as an obelisk. In the garden here we use strong pea-sticks, the tips randomly woven together to create a tall dome for the clematis to delicately rise above its neighbours (and hide a manhole cover in the middle of my border).

Creating a colourful late-summer border is thoroughly satisfying, but if you have limited space it means this portion of your garden will be a little bare until June or July. If this is the case, consider succession planting – lift the dahlias in autumn and plant tulips together with forget-me-nots for colour in spring and early summer, and in the pockets reserved for the annuals under-plant with more of the same or with alliums and aquilegias.

Download a PDF of the border plan

 Andrea Brunsendorf is director of outdoor landscapes at Longwood Gardens in Pennsylvania.