Here we’ve rounded up a selection of the best climbing plants, perfect for your garden. We’ve divided the list into climbers for walls, borders and vigorous examples.

Climbing plants, including favourites such as honeysuckle and jasmine, all share the successful strategy of relying on the support of other plants or objects to reach the sunlight. This obviates the need to invest much in producing supportive tissue, such as the wood in trees, and means climbing plants aren’t subject to the usual restraints on growth.

Here are the best climbing plants

How to choose a climbing plant

A climbing plant can be a wonderful addition to your garden planting, and there are plenty more out there to choose from than just the regular honeysuckle or clematis or passion flower. The way to choose your climbing plant depends a lot on the space you have and what you want your plant to be used for. Here are some tips on how to choose the best climbing plant:

• What do you want it to grow up? If you’re using your climbing plant as a screen, then you will want a vigorous climber that provides good, evergreen coverage, with hopefully flowering bonuses at some point too. If it’s something you’ll be looking out onto, make sure you pick a climber you love. They tend to dominate wherever they are.

• Do you have the right supports? A climber needs the right support, so make sure you invest in the correct plant support, or your wall, trellis or even tree is suitable for the particular climber.
• Do you have time to look after it? Lots of climbers are fussy and lots of climbers need work to prune it at the right point in the year. If you’re looking for something that you can chop once a year and then leave to do it’s own thing, consider a Clematis ‘francis rivis’ or Hedera algeriensis ‘Gloire de Marengo’.

Luxuriant growth brings its own problems – vigour must be matched carefully to the appropriate space, and abundance restrained where necessary. If you need some climbing supports, we have rounded up our favourites,  and don’t miss our guide to pruning climbing plants like wisteria.

The best climbing plants for your garden in 2023

Climbing plants with flowers

Rhodochiton atrosanguineus

This ‘purple bell flower’ produces beautiful flowers along the length of its twining stems, and looks effective growing along horizontal twigs or branches. This climbing plant can be sown late April, or August and overwintered frost free. 2.5m AGM. RHS H2.

Jasminum nudiflorum

© Jason Ingram

This jasmine can be persuaded to adopt the semblance of a climber by training and cutting back immediately after flowering. If allowed some freedom, this winter jasmine will flower abundantly in winter and early spring. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 6a-9b.

Ipomoea tricolor ‘Heavenly Blue’

A climbing plant that’s Perennial in a Mediterranean climate, it can achieve sufficient bulk here to make its presence felt from a late April sowing, without causing too much of a nuisance. Will flower until frost cuts it down. 3m. AGM. RHS H1c.

Ipomoea lobata

An intriguing member of the bindweed family, with flowers that are simultaneously an intense orange and yellow in the early bud stage, maturing to cream. Sow Spanish flag in late April and plant after all danger of frost. 3m.

Bomarea multiflora

Twining herbaceous climber, a relative of Alstroemeria, that arises from a tuber. The trailing lily may come through the winter protected by a thick mulch. Something this gorgeous deserves some effort. 6m. AGM. USDA 10a-11.

Lonicera x tellmanniana

A climbing honeysuckle lacking scent, but abundant, vivid-orange flowers offer excitement enough. Tolerates shade and may be pruned by removing flowered growth annually. 4.7m. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 7b-10b. Don’t miss our plant profile for more honeysuckle suggestions.

Solanum laxum ‘Album’

A twining climber with abundant clusters of flowers that look fragile and fresh right up to the first frosts. Trim lateral branches to around 15cm in winter. On the tender side, so site carefully. 6m. AGM.

Evergreen climbing plants

Pileostegia viburnoides

Self-clinging, evergreen climbing plant thats shade tolerant with frothy white flowers in late summer. This climbing hydrangea has a slow rate of growth, but this makes it less work to restrain once established. 6m. USDA 8a-10b.

Climbing plants for shade

Clematis ‘Frances Rivis’

A good early flowering clematis with nodding flowers of great charm in spring. Works well in partial, deciduous shade as part of a woodland scheme. Prune lightly after flowering, if at all. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4b-9a.

Lapageria rosea

Achingly beautiful climber, but requires shade, shelter, good drainage (yet plentiful summer moisture), is slow to establish and an apparently ambrosial beacon for slugs. 7m. AGM. RHS H3, USDA 9b-11.

Parthenocissus henryana

Native to China, this Virginia climbing plant has tastefully variegated leaves that turn vibrant shades of red in the autumn. It self-clings and will tolerate the shade of a north-facing wall. 4.7m. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 6a-9b.

Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris

A climbing plant that’s deciduous, but in season it completely clothes its space with large, green leaves and white, lace-cap inflorescences. Another climbing hydrangea that will cover a shady wall fast. 12m. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 4a-7b.

Schizophragma integrifolium

• Buy now from Thompson & Morgan (£35.99)

Similar to Hydrangea anomala, although you will need more patience. This climbing hyrdrangea is distinguished  by the shape and size of the sterile florets that encircle the inflorescence. 6m. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 7a-10b.

Low maintenance climbing plants

Hedera algeriensis ‘Gloire de Marengo’

Good for lighting up dark walls without any fuss. A vigorous, self-clinging, adaptable variegated ivy climbing plant, with smart, glossy leaves tinged with white. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 7a-10b.

Ipomoea coccinea

Delicate in growth with striking scarlet flowers, this true annual is rarely seen and deserves to be grown more frequently. A climbing plant that’s straightforward from seed sown in late April and then planted out after all risk of frost is over. 6m.

Clematis ‘Prince Charles’

A prolific blue-flowered clematis, similar to Sissinghurst’s ‘Perle d’Azur’ but with slightly smaller flowers and improved resistance to powdery mildew. Cut back hard in spring and watch it go. 2.4m. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b. Here’s our profile on clematis montana. 

Cobaea scandens

The most vigorous of all annual climbers, and perennial in a frost-free climate. In one year, from seed, the ‘cup and saucer vine’ can cover an astonishing area with bell-shaped flowers from late summer to first frosts. 1.8m. AGM. RHS H2, USDA 9a-10b.

Fragrant climbing plants

Trachelospermum jasminoides

The scent of ‘false jasmine’ is not that similar to true jasmine, but equally powerful. The star jasmine is quite hardy, although the similar Trachelospermum asiaticum is said to be hardier. A climbing plant that’s best on a sunny wall. 12m. AGM. RHS H4, USDA 8a-11.

Rosa ‘Paul’s Himalayan Musk’

Vigorous rambling rose, with delicate flowers. Perfect for hoisting up a large tree. Will take time to establish itself, but once it does you will be rewarded with grace, scent and a profusion of flowers. 9m. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4a-9b.

Fast growing climbing plants

Clematis ‘Alba Luxurians’

One of the most vigorous of the viticella cultivars. Cut back hard every spring, you’ll be amazed at the coverage you get over the course of one season. This climber flowers profusely July to September. 3.6m. USDA 3a-9b.

Read our expert guide to pruning clematis.

Rosa ‘Wedding Day’

The scrambling rose flowers have the agreeable quality of changing colour as they mature, from pale primrose to almost white. The different stages appear side by side in each many-headed inflorescence. 9m. USDA 7a-9b.

Clematis ‘Bill MacKenzie’

A tough, vigorous, climbing clematis, offering both striking flowers and seedheads over a long period. It’s tolerant of drought and extreme cold, but does best in full sun. 6m. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 5b-9b.

Lonicera periclymenum ‘Serotina’

Honeysuckle, with vivid colouring and a long flowering season. A vigorous and at times untidy grower; it can be kept within bounds by carefully removing flowered shoots in winter. 6m. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 5a-9b.

Rosa ‘Chevy Chase’

A climbing rose with a touch of opulence. The flowers are small double and crimson, with tightly clustered petals. Great in combination with the dark, glossy leaves of a mature holly, which makes a suitable host. 7m. USDA 5a-9b.

Rosa ‘The Garland’

Trained to cover an archway, this climbing rose has always been the most arresting sight in the garden where I’ve been working for the past four years. Now it’s happily rambling on to a neighbouring yew tree. 7m.

Wisteria floribunda ‘Alba’

Often grown in spur-pruned tiers on a wall, although if you allow it the freedom to romp into trees, this climbing plant will seek out the sunshine to flower well, and assume something of its natural character. 12m. USDA 5a-10b.

Vitis coignetiae

A vine in the more precise sense of the word: a close relative of the grape. This climber is grown for its large leaves, which turn spectacular colours in autumn. A wonderful way to enliven evergreen trees. 12m. AGM. RHS H5, USDA 5a-9b.

Clematis montana var. grandiflora

Well known for its extraordinary vigour, which makes it difficult to contain. This climbing plant’s stemmy growth can look rather untidy, especially in the winter. All will be forgiven when it flowers. 12m. AGM. RHS H4, USDA 6a-9b.

Climbing plants are a great addition to any garden as they not only provide aesthetic appeal but also offer practical benefits such as shade and privacy. With a wide range of varieties to choose from, gardeners have the opportunity to experiment with different climbers to suit their taste and requirements. Whether you have a small balcony or a large garden, there is a climbing plant that can transform your outdoor space. By selecting the right type of climbing plant and providing the right conditions for it to grow, you can create a beautiful and functional garden that is a joy to be in. So why not take the leap and add a climbing plant to your garden today!

If you’re in need of climbing supports for your climbing plants, we have rounded up the best climbing supports for 2023. Or here’s our piece on how to make your own plant supports. 

Lavender is a wonderful plant to grow in the garden. Not only does it have a stunning fragrance, reminiscent of warm summer evenings, but its flower spikes in varying shades of purple are so versatile and will lift any border or container display. Lavenders are low maintenance plants and needing little watering, unless planted in containers. They cope well with both drought and frosts are will reliably come back, year after year. A great choice if you’re time poor but still desire a spectacular display.

Bastin Nursery in the Netherlands has a renowned collection of Mediterranean plants, which includes well over a hundred different lavenders. if you’re thinking of buying a lavender but need some inspiration for which lavender plant to buy, take a look at nursery owner, Roger Bastin’s favourite types.

How to care for lavender

 Pruning lavender

Pruning is essential. At the nursery, we regularly pinch out the new growth on cuttings and young plants to stimulate lateral branching. Keep this up when you’ve just planted young lavenders.

When to prune lavender

Prune in spring to stimulate growth and prune in autumn to retain shape. Make sure you’ve finished pruning by the beginning of October, preferably earlier. Once the flowering season is over, there is no need to wait. One big advantage is the plant will continue to grow and you’ll spend your winter looking at beautiful silvery grey balls rather than bare branches. Be a bit more careful with Lavandula x intermedia, though, as it is much less hardy.

Fertilising lavender

There is hardly ever a need to fertilise lavender. And don’t water them, unless they are in pots.

When to plant lavender

Lavenders can be planted year-round, unless it’s freezing. The best time is October. Before planting, work lots of lime into the soil, about four times as much as the packaging says. Every two to three years add a maintenance dose, as prescribed. Note, however, that Lavandula stoechas cultivars and hybrids don’t want lime and are best pruned in summer.

The best lavender to grow

The Nursery’s own selection, with very pale violet, almost white flowers emerging from the deepest dark violet, almost black calyx.

The palest violet there is. Any paler and it would be white. Looks great when set off against darker colours. Hardiness rating USDA 6b-11.

The best white I’ve ever seen. Well-shaped, compact, but no dwarf. Hardiness rating USDA 6b-11.

Longest bloomer, as classically lavender-coloured as can be. Archetypal lavender at its best.

Fluffy flowers in a very special lilac. This plant is remarkable and in a colour category of its own. Hardiness rating USDA 6b-11.

The best pink flowers. Period. Hardiness rating RHS H4, USDA 6b-11.

The best dwarf cultivar – compact with dark flowers. Hardiness rating USDA 6b-11.

A new and very promising dark cultivar that keeps flowering.

A very full growing, vigorous and healthy plant with dark flowers. Hardiness rating USDA 6a-10b.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Downderry, Pillar Box Ln, Hadlock,
Tonbridge, YN119SW
Tel 01732 810081, www.downderry-nursery.co.uk
Open Thursday to Sunday, 10am-5pm.

Kwekerij Bastin, Nieuwenhuysstraat 29,
6336 XV  Aalbeek, Limburg, The Netherlands.
Tel +31 (0)45 5231475, www.bastin.nl
Open Wednesday to Saturday, 10am-5pm.

At Hermannshof botanical garden, we use the German system of garden habitats to select plants according to their habitat requirements, sociability and aesthetic qualities. This is essential to achieve long-term, ecologically balanced and low-maintenance horticultural plant communities in gardens and urban green spaces. Below is my choice of plants that will be perfect for dry and sunny parts of the garden.

More

• Plants for shade
• Drought tolerant plants
• Plants for pollinators

Key: H = height; S = spread; C = conditions; SI = season of interest; HR = hardiness rating.

Plants for full sun

Allium atropurpureum

Multi-flowering, semi-globose clusters of deep burgundy-red florets. Perfect for steppe plantings with salvias and ornamental grasses. Self-seeds if conditions are right. H 80cm. S 10cm. C Rich, medium-dry, well-drained soil; full sun. SI Early summer. HR RHS H5, USDA 4a-7b.

Allium ‘Forelock’

One of my favourite alliums for open Mediterranean and steppe plantings. Elegant, deep-purple drumsticks with contrasting white stamens on tall stems, moving slightly in the wind. Good self-seeder. H 1.6m. S 8cm. C Rich, medium-dry, well-drained soil; full sun. SI Early summer. HR RHS H5, USDA 4a-8b.

Allium ‘Summer Drummer’

A spectacular Mediterranean species. Sends out tall, purple- mauve drumsticks in midsummer. Plants send out their new fans of chive-like leaves in September, overwintering fully green. Small groups look dramatic in open steppe plantings. H 1.8m. S 20cm. C Rich, medium-dry, well-drained loam; full sun. SI July – August. HR RHS H5, USDA 7a-10a.

Asclepias tuberosa

A drought-tolerant prairie plant, thriving even in poor, sandy or gravelly soils. Bright-orange flowers in June, followed by interesting seedheads in August to September. Attracts butterflies. H 80cm. S 60cm. C Light, well-drained soil; full sun. SI June – July. HR RHS H4, USDA 3a-9b.

x Chitalpa tashkentensis

A small, deciduous tree with a beautiful open shape, willow-like leaves, covered with clusters of large, deep-pink flowers from June to August. Adapted to low humidity and summer drought. H 3.5-4.5m. S 3.5m. C Moist to dry loam, well-drained soil; full sun. SI June – July. HR RHS H4, USDA 7a-11.

Watch Cassian Schmidt deliver the winter lecture at the New York Botanical Garden

Echinacea pallida ‘Hula Dancer’

An elegant seed strain of this familiar prairie plant with almost pure-white, drooping rays, arranged around an eye-catching greenish cone. Attractive seedheads from August to January. H 80-90cm. S 20cm. C Light, well-drained soil; full sun. SI June – July. HR RHS H5, USDA 3a-8b.

Echinacea paradoxa

A coneflower with unusual, golden-yellow, drooping ray flowers. If planted in dry conditions on well-drained soils, can be very long-lived. Sensitive to competition, so best planted together with low, clump-forming prairie grasses in low density. H 70-80cm. S 20cm. C Light, well-drained soil; full sun. SI June – July. HR RHS H5, USDA 5a-8b.

Euphorbia nicaeensis

A low-growing, Mediterranean sub-shrub with attractive, evergreen, bluish-green leaves and large, acid-yellow flowers over a long period. When planted on lean, gravelly soils, the bracts have an intense red colouration in August and September. Perfect for gravel gardens. H 30-40cm. S 25cm. C Light, well-drained, dry soil; full sun. SI June – August. HR RHS H5, USDA 6a-10a.

Genista aetnensis

An elegant large shrub or small tree with broom-like slender branches, which are covered with small, yellow, pea-like flowers in early June. Well adapted to summer drought and surprisingly hardy. AGM. H 2.5-3.5m. S 1.5m. C Well-drained, gravelly soil; full sun. SI June – October. HR RHS H5, USDA 6a-9b.

Geranium sanguineum ‘Album’

One of the best European hardy geraniums for dry conditions in full sun or the sunny woodland margin. Works well when dotted through naturalistic mixed perennial plantings, but also in groups at the front of a border. A sterile selection that doesn’t seed around like the magenta wild form. AGM. H 40cm. S 50cm. C Well-drained loam, chalk; full sun to light shade. SI May – June. HR RHS H7, USDA 4a-8b.

Linum narbonense

Small, evergreen sub-shrub, native to the southern Mediterranean. Its large, clear-blue flowers stay open all day, unlike Linum perenne, which drops its petals before midday. Best used among other drought-tolerant, delicate perennials and airy grasses. H 60cm. S 15cm. C Light, well-drained soil, prefers chalk; full sun. SI May – June. HR RHS H4, USDA 6a-10a.

Monarda bradburyana ‘Ozark’

A selection I introduced in 2004. Native to dry woodlands and glades in the Ozarks, it prefers sun, but can tolerate light shade. Shiny foliage emerges dark-purple in spring. Flowers early, and looks good in a prairie setting with grasses. H 60cm. S 50cm. C Well-drained soil; full sun or part shade. SI May – June. HR RHS H5, USDA 5a-8b.

Phlomis bourgaei

I first fell in love with this evergreen, yellowish-grey-leaved sub-shrub on a hike in southwestern Turkey, when I saw it covered with large golden-yellow flowers. A perfect addition to any garrigue-like planting or gravel garden. Best planted in a sheltered, summer-dry spot. H 80cm-1.2m. S 70cm. C Dry, gravelly soil; full sun. SI October – November. HR RHS H5, USDA 7a-11.

Ruella humilis

A useful, low-growing companion perennial for dry, prairie plantings, best scattered into a matrix of low-growing, warm-season grasses, such as Bouteloua. Large petunia-like blue flowers from June to August. H 25-35cm. S 30cm. C Dry, well-drained soil; full sun to light shade. SI June – August. HR USDA 4a-8b.

Sesleria argentea

Seslerias are the best semi-evergreen grasses for matrix plantings or intermingled in mixed plantings. This little-known species grows in rocky areas or in the dappled shade of open oak forest. Silvery flower spikes in summer. H 35cm. S 35cm. C Mesic to dry, well-drained loam; full sun to part shade. SI May – October. HR RHS H7, USDA 5b-8b.

Sesleria ‘Greenlee’

A low-growing hybrid of Sesleria autumnalis. Well-behaved semi-evergreen cool-season grass, is useful as a ground cover matrix or understorey, and for planting through. Mid-green spring foliage is joined in summer by airy flower spikes. H 35cm. S 35cm. C Mesic to dry, well-drained soil; full sun to part shade.

Sporobolus heterolephis ‘Odorous Cloud’

Fine, arching foliage and diffuse clouds of airy flowers shimmer on this grass that looks great with echinacea seedheads. Orange-yellow autumn colour. H 70cm. S 50cm. C Medium-dry, well-drained chalk, loam, sand; full sun. SI Flowers August – September. HR RHS H7, USDA 3a-9b.

Symphyotrichon oblongifolium ‘October Skies’

A robust, mildew-free aster from the midwestern prairies. The large blue flowers cover the plants for several weeks from late September until mid November. H 55-70cm. S 60cm. C Mesic to dry, well-drained soil; full sun. SI October – November. HR RHS H7, USDA 3a-8a.

Tulipa ‘Honky Tonk’

A lovely tulip with slightly pointed, sulphur-yellow flowers. Best in small groups of 10-15 bulbs. Looks good with Euphorbia cyparissias in low steppe plantings. H 25cm. S 5cm. C Medium-dry, well-drained soil; full sun. SI Spring. HR RHS H6, USDA 5a-8b.

Tulipa ‘Ice Stick’

One of the earliest and most persistent tulips for rock gardens or for planting around the base of deciduous shrubs and small trees, where it appreciates the summer drought. H 20cm. S 5cm. C Rich, medium-dry, well-drained soil; full sun to light shade. SI Spring. HR RHS H6, USDA 5a-8b.

Tulipa orphanidea Whittallii Group

A wonderful, warm orange-red species tulip. As in woodland grass, with elegant arching leaves that many species-like tulips, the elegant flowers need sunlight to open fully and to glow from backlight. AGM. H 20cm. S 5cm. C Medium-dry, well-drained a lighter green in summer. Beautiful on the soils (needs summer drought); full sun. SI Spring. HR RHS H6, USDA 5a-8b.

Tulipa ‘Peppermintstick’

Tulipa praestans ‘Van Tubergens Variety’

A wonderful, multi-flowered, warm-red species-like tulip. Quite adaptable to different soil conditions. Looks stunning together with blue or white Anemone blanda. H 30cm. S 8cm. C Rich, medium-dry, well-drained soil; full sun to light shade. SI Spring. HR RHS H6, USDA 5a-8b.

Gardens by the coast come with a unique set of challenges. Often battered by heavy winds filled with salt spray and located on poor soils, they can seem inhospitable places at first glance. However, with a unique set of conditions there also comes the opportunity to use a planting style that is unlike any other. There are plenty of plants that grow happily in these sea-soaked, blustery locations, and some that thrive in them.

When setting out a coastal garden, planning is important. Plant the wrong thing and it could end up dead pretty quickly, wasting your money and your time. Here, we’ve rounded up some of the best coastal plants that will flourish in your seaside garden.

Here’s a beautiful garden right on the coast. 

The best coastal plants

Coastal trees

Trees growing by the coast need to be wind tolerant and able to put down deep roots that will anchor them into the soil and allow them to reach water in times of drought. Fortunately, there are plenty that fit the bill.

Here’s more on how to plant a tree.

Scots Pine 

Pinus sylvestris, or Scots Pine, is one of the most common trees seen growing near the coast. Pines are well suited to dry and windy locations as their needle shaped leaves are well adapted to prevent water loss and withstand strong gusts. To add to this, Scots Pine will grow in infertile soils and send its roots deep into the ground for anchorage and to obtain enough water. 

Hawthorn 

Hawthorn is a great coastal plant as it is salt tolerant and can be used as part of a windbreak hedge. Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn) is also really attractive to wildlife, offering nesting sites, flowers for pollinators and fruit for birds. 

Hornbeam

Carpinus betulus, or hornbeam is an incredibly hardy plant, making it great for coastal gardens. Although deciduous, hornbeam often keep their leaves through the winter making them a great haven for wildlife. This also makes them useful in protecting the garden against coastal winds, and Carpinus betulus can be allowed to grow into a tree or used as hedging in coastal areas. 

Juniper  

Juniperus scopulorum, or Rocky Mountain juniper, is a great choice for a coastal garden. These pyramid-shaped conifers are evergreen with greeny-blue foliage. They are drought tolerant, happy in exposed locations and bare attractive fruits in autumn and winter.

Other trees that are suitable for coastal gardens include other pine species, some acers and holly.

Coastal shrubs

Shrubs growing by the coast are often compact and have small leaves to minimise water loss. They need to be able to withstand extreme weather conditions, so always look out for hardy plants.

Barberry 

Berberis, also known as Barberry, are versatile and hardy shrubs that make an excellent addition to a coastal garden. Varieties range from evergreen to deciduous and provide a great mix of foliage colours, autumn interest and wildlife support. 

Blackthorn 

We may know blackthorn best for the fruits they produce in autumn – sloes, often used for making sloe gin. Prunus spinosa are hardy plants capable of growing in a range of soils and locations. They are deciduous and have large thorns and produce masses of white blossom in early spring. They’re great as an addition to a coastal garden as they provide a long season of interest, are great for wildlife and add value to the edible garden. 

Sea buckthorn

Hippophae rhamnoides, or sea buckthorn, is native to sand dunes, making it perfect for coastal gardens. They form dense thickets and are most decorative in autumn when they’re covered in orange berries. The berries are great food for birds, like thrushes, and can also be made into jellies and syrups. 

Elder

Many of us will know Sambucus nigra because of the beautifully scented umbels of white flowers that we use to make elderflower cordial in early summer. They are hardy shrubs and a great addition to a coastal garden as they are happy in a range of soil conditions and can cope with exposure. 

Other shrubs that are suitable for a coastal garden include Euonymus, Olearia, Pyracantha and lavender.

Perennials for a coastal garden

There are a lot of perennial plants that grow wild in coastal locations. Many of these are available for garden planting, as well as plants that have been bred to maintain these hardy characteristics.

Sea holly  

Eryngium, also known as sea holly, grow well in coastal areas, as their name suggests. Their thistle-like appearance is the result of tiny flowers clustered close together. There are over 250 species with plenty that are suitable for seaside gardens. 

Don’t miss our plant profile on eryngium.

Agapanthus

Agapanthus form large clumps and their tall stems of large drumstick shaped flowers add impact and colour. They are tolerant of coastal conditions and are perfect for planting in pots. They are also well suited to planting with grasses. 

Here’s the best agapanthus to grow.

Crocosmia 

Crocosmia are another clump forming plant that are perfect for coastal gardens. They will spread far, so are perhaps better suited to larger spaces and not for areas that adjoin open countryside as they can become invasive. The fiery flowers appear in late summer and early autumn. 

Red hot pokers 

Kniphofia, or red hot pokers, produce long-lived flowers on tall stems, The plants prefer a sunny spot and well-drained soil, making them great plants for a coastal garden.

Other perennials that are suitable for a coastal garden include Achillea, Erigeron, hollyhocks and Dianthus.

Other elements of a coastal garden

There are plenty of ways to bring interest to a coastal garden. One of these is by creating rockeries. The low-lying alpine plants and rock garden plants are well suited to the poorer soils, so work well in seaside locations. Another key element of a coastal garden is windbreaks. By using windbreak plants, you can expand the range of plants you grow within your garden as they will be more protected from some of the heavier weather. Finally, it is important to mulch beds in a coastal garden. The wind and sea salt in the air will dry plants out quickly, by mulching you can ensure that the soil retains a bit more moisture.

Australian landscape designer Kathleen Murphy understands how both the surrounding landscape and a client’s individual interior style play a vital role in shaping her garden designs. Clients are drawn to her personal touch and ability to transform a space into something special, as if it has always belonged.

“For me it is important to integrate the prevailing landscape into the look and feel of any outdoor space I create. I take time to get to know my clients – how they use their homes and what is important to them. Gardens should be lived in and enjoyed; it is never just about the aesthetic.”

Having moved to their family home 14 years ago, Kathleen and her husband had been busy juggling work and raising their three children, while Kathleen organically established her business. The property, a 1980s country ranch-style house, is set in just under two acres, and at the front Kathleen inherited an established, English-inspired garden. At the rear, the backyard was a blank canvas, and in 2017 Kathleen gave herself the space to rethink it – creating a studio for her business and an inspirational family garden.

Kathleen’s approach followed the same principles she applies with clients. Her husband and three children, aged from 13 to 16, were encouraged to share their individual needs and wants: space to kick a ball around and ride bikes, and defined zones for a billabong, grotto and fire pit. “It’s a place for me to experiment with new ideas, and a space for us as a family to unwind, relax, explore, and feel connected to nature. This has been life-changing in terms of its effect on my creativity.”

The design frames the amazing view of the surrounding Macedon Ranges, and mirrors the contours of the landscape, with raised earth mounds facilitating drainage in the nutritious, but heavy, clay soil. “I always consider the view from every window in the house, and like to draw the eye out to something special in the garden.”

Throughout the garden, planting is intentionally hardy as extremes of weather range from 40-degree heat to harsh frosts. “I like to layer structural Australian natives, such as long, grass-like Lomandra, with succulents and Westringia, along with more exotic Mediterranean and textural Californian foliage. Pathways are lined with olive and gum trees and medicinal herbs, and tall masses of sticky boobialla (Myoporum viscosum) screen boundaries,” says Kathleen.

“Seasonal colour is important, and I use the garden as a test bed for client projects – if plants don’t survive, they are not replanted. I love pops of seasonal colour – sedum for burnt-orange autumn accents, and Verbena bonariensis, Salvia nemorosa for their purple tones, which work well with our year-round palette of soft muted greys, greens and blues.” Beschorneria yuccoides (below) is one of Kathleen’s favourites, with arching racemes of yellow-green tubular flowers with showy, pinkish-red bracts above fleshy, grey-green leaves.

Kathleen has created a billabong that runs through the garden, a favourite spot for the family to relax. Billabong is an Aboriginal term for a pool of water left behind from a river after it has altered its course. This one has been artificially created and is lined with clay. Large basalt boulders have been sawn to create stepping stones. These were sourced nearby, left over from farmers clearing paddocks to grow crops. Aquatic plants include Australian natives, such as milfoil (Myriophyllum cripatum) nardoo (Marsilea drummondii), which oxygenate the water for the three eastern long-necked tortoises and native fish.

Australia is experiencing a change in its weather and enduring longer, drier periods throughout the year. Rather than simply gathering water in bulky water butts, Kathleen makes use of new techniques for collecting, using and saving water in a more aesthetically pleasing way. She installed an underground wastewater-treatment system that links to the house and studio. In Australia, all new residential housing developments with more than an acre of land are required to have a water-treatment system that involves taking the wastewater from toilets and household use into an at-home, mini-treatment plant where the water is recycled for garden purposes.

The garden also benefits from an irrigation system that feeds the garden in part from the billabong. Water is also collected from rooftops, which is standard practice in Australia, with the government even giving homeowners a rebate on the cost of installing a water tank. A similar system could be used in the UK, where, instead of using a water butt, collected water could be fed discreetly into a more attractive, open, ornamental pond or small water feature using a pump system connected to a tap. All plants are drought tolerant as it would be impossible to irrigate the full garden area.

Find out more about Kathleen Murphy at kmldesign.com.au

As high temperatures continue in the UK, we asked three RHS horticulture advisors, Nikky Barker, Julie Henderson and Adrian Thorne, their views on what the drought means for gardens in the UK and how gardeners need to be adapting to the changes in climate in the short and long term.

The answers may surprise you: whilst being careful with what you water is an important element of their message, it’s just the beginning of what we can be doing to adapt in the long-term to the extremes of temperature that we are seeing at the moment.

If you have a garden in the UK you should be thinking about several things, including how to build a resilient garden, with plants that can withstand heat and drought, how to save water and how to care for your soil.

Don’t miss our piece on dry garden planting combinations and read more on water saving in garden design.

How bad is this year’s drought?

There is a severe drought in the south east. At RHS Bridgewater further north, there’s been extensive hot weather and much less rainfall than normal. We are seeing greater extremes because of climate change. Hot events were predicted to be very infrequent, but they are happening much more often than expected and for longer and longer.

Ten to 20 years ago a garden would have had more recovery time, but because the hot weather is longer and more frequent, gardens have to work harder. An exceptionally dry spring meant our rainfall became more concentrated. That’s a problem too, because if rain comes all at once it doesn’t soak into the ground and you get runoff.

What are the long and short term effects of this sort of weather on the garden and wildlife?

A lot of plants will have shorter flowering time. The changes in the temperature earlier in the year could mean there’s not the right plants for when the pollinators need them. Insects adapt much slower to climate change, so where flowers are coming out earlier, insects may be missing out on their food source. And that also has an effect on fruit and veg too – less fruit and vegetables for domestic growers.

Some plants, like hydrangeas, are very susceptible to drought. They need consistently moist soil and are going suffer with the lack of water. Acers too, like a sheltered garden spot, but this weather is scorching the leaves. Cherries need a period of cold in the winter, but if they aren’t getting that then you will see reduced amounts of fruit.

We rely on microorganisms in the soil to keep it healthy, but when it’s very dry, things like worms go very deep, a metre down, to where it is moist. So they won’t be having the same beneficial effect on the soil.

As the climate changes, there will be a change in disease and fungus. They will be able to survive where they hadn’t in the past. There may be some coming from the continent. If you are changing plants, look for something that will be resilient to possible diseases.

Adapting to drought in the garden: what gardeners should be doing

Lawns

• Lawns are a terrible waste of water and the typical urban grass that we consider to be a lawn is poor for pollinators.
• Pick the right grass mix: in general, the basic seed mixes you find have fine lawns and utility lawns. The fine lawn mixes are usually not good at coping with drought, the grass seed in utility lawns is much better at adapting. Choose your seed mix carefully.
• Don’t cut your lawns too short: lawns are much more drought resistant the longer they are.
• A brown lawn will grow back once the rains come again. If you’re watering in your garden now, don’t water your lawn.

Watering

• Be very selective in what you’re choosing to water. If you think something will survive, leave that and focus on newly planted things.
• Water right to the roots. Never have a hosepipe spraying on the whole border. It will sit on the leaves and evaporate.
• Water with a watering can – it will make your watering more targeted.
• Install a water meter. You’ll be more likely to use water wisely.
• Install rain water butts from your house drainpipes.
• Use grey water – recycled water from washing machines and baths – only on established plants and not on fruit and veg.
• Water in the morning or evening when it’s cool, otherwise you will loose lots to evaporation. Here’s more on when to water in hot weather. 

Mulch

Mulching really helps in the long term. It is done mainly in the autumn. Cover the soil with anything from compost to bark. It will keep the moisture in the soil, stopping it evaporating. Bare soil is the enemy of plants. Having it mulched will also help protection from the much stronger winds that we’re seeing through the spring and summer. It will reduce erosion and water loss. Here’s our guide on how to mulch. 

Heavy rainfall

With the drought also comes increasingly heavy, focused rainfalls. Plan for these by creating rain storage from the run off.

Change your planting

Gardeners have to adapt, but we have been doing this for centuries. Start considering more drought tolerant plants and look to Mediterranean planting. There are lots of exciting plants that couldn’t be overwintered here a few years ago, but now they can – like lemon trees.

If a plant hasn’t survived drought, don’t replace it with the same thing. Choose something that is more resilient. Annuals are usually very tolerant – such as nasturtiums and love-in-a-mist. Choose things that will self seed as they will choose when the time is right to germinate.

Where winter wet is also an issue (more likely to be west and north of UK), adapting the garden to shed and store water is a better option than looking for plants that are both dry and wet tolerant. Raised beds/mound planting and water butts/rainwater harvesting systems are what you need.

Here’s our list of the best drought tolerant plants. 

Don’t mollycoddle your plants

If you have two genetically identical plants and put one on poor soil and the other on rich soil and only water the one on poor soil when it is first planted, the one that adapts to climate change best will be the one in poor soil. Choose the right plants and toughen them up. Studies have chosen that if you give a plant less water then it adapts to needing less water.

Anti-intervention is the name of the game

We have to be less manipulative and we have to work with the soil and plants that we have. Improve the soil as much as you can without using artificial fertilisers and irrigation. Be more pragmatic: if you have clover on your lawn, you can still walk on it.

Great examples of dry gardens in the UK

This year’s Hampton Court had several gardens which were worth looking at. The Planet Friendly Garden and the Turfed Out garden. There’s no turf in it, it’s all made from recycled materials.

Beth Chatto’s Garden was planted in a car park and she watered the plants when she first planted them, but hasn’t watered them since. It looks stunning. The dry garden at Hyde Hall works on the same principal. Look to the east. The east of the country is dryer than the west so they are ahead of the game in terms of what we have to think about.

Read more about what a drought means for gardeners in the UK

Salvias are a wide and varied genus of plants, and a must for summer borders and containers. Their lipped flowers come in a myriad range of colours, including vibrant blues and purples, bright scarlets, pale pink, bright magenta, and even peach and yellow. All salvias have nectar-rich flowers that are loved by bees, butterflies and other pollinating insects and most have attractive aromatic foliage.

You may also like

• Rosemary is reclassified as salvia
• Drought tolerant plants
• 10 of the best gardens to visit for planting inspiration
• A container display using Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’

William Dyson’s nursery at Great Comp in Kent has revolutionised the way we see salvias. Twenty-five years ago, when William took on the job of head gardener and nursery manager at the garden, salvias were either a bright-red bedding plant or a culinary herb. Now, thanks in great part to William, the genus is widely grown and admired.

William took over ownership of Great Comp’s plant nursery in 1995. Around the same time, plant collectors James Compton, John d’Arcy and Martyn Rix had returned from Mexico with a hybrid sage, Salvia x jamensis. “This was a pivotal point,” says William. “I managed to get hold of a few plants and here, where the soil is free draining and we get plenty of sunshine, they were fantastic – masses of colour for months on end. I then went about getting whatever salvias I could get my hands on.”

Seedling salvias began popping up in the garden and William decided to start a controlled breeding programme. In 1997 he launched Salvia ‘Silas Dyson’, a hardy, floriferous shrubby salvia with rich-crimson flowers that blooms from May to November. The plant was instantly popular and was followed by Salvia ‘Dyson’s Crimson’, an open-pollinated seedling taken from ‘Silas Dyson’, which has a darker flower and a compact habit.

Many more introductions of hardy shrubby salvias followed and were met with enthusiasm by gardeners who were seduced by their easy cultivation and extraordinarily long flowering period.

A major turning point for salvias came in 2004 with the distribution of a plant originally found growing in a pot on a Mexican patio. Salvia ‘Hot Lips’ is a flamboyant shrubby form, which is bicoloured during the summer but can have either single red or single white flowers in the cooler months. It has become extremely popular and encouraged gardeners to look at others salvias.

As well as the shrubby forms of salvia, the nursery also produces hardy perennial salvias and more tender forms. William continues to breed them. “I do ask myself if we really need more salvias but we are still getting things that are different. I am still as excited by salvias as I was 25 years ago.”

What is salvia?

Salvia is a huge and varied genus of perennials and small shrubs with origins from around the world. They include hardy herbaceous perennials, with thin flower spikes in late spring and early summer. The tender herbaceous types flower from midsummer to the first frosts, as do the many hardy and half hardy shrubby types.

How to grow salvias

Where to plant salvia

Grow salvias in a sunny spot. They need well drained soil and cope well with poor, dry or stony soils. (An exception is the bog sage, Salvia uliginosa, which needs moist soil.) If you garden on clay, be sure to incorporate plenty of grit when planting, or grow salvias in pots. Hardy salvias may die over winter if the soil is very cold and wet, so take cuttings in late summer so that you can replace any losses.

There is a salvia for almost every style of planting scheme. They look great in a herbaceous border and also look great in a tropical or exotic planting scheme, pairing well with dahlias. Salvias cope well with wind, so are ideal for a coastal garden, and as many are drought tolerant, they are good plants for a dry garden. They also grow very well in pots.

When to plant salvia

Plant out your salvia in early summer. This will give the plant plenty of time to put roots down before winter. If you buy a salvia plant later in the season, consider waiting to plant it out until the following spring, so that the plant does not to succumb to winter wet.

When to prune salvia

Shrubby salvias should be cut back in late spring, when the risk of frosts has passed. Cut any dead stems back to where new growth is appearing. You can deadhead them to prolong flowering in summer, but this is not essential.

Hardy perennial salvias can be cut back to just above ground level immediately flowering, so that they may reflower later in the season. Then cut back again in autumn or early spring.

How to take salvia cuttings

Take a few cuttings in late summer to increase your stock of plants and insure against any losses over winter.

Select some non flowering shoots, around 8cm long and place immediately in a plastic bag to retain moisture

1. Remove the lower leaves
2. Place around the edge of a pot filled with gritty compost
3. Water and cover with a plastic bag or put in a propagator
4. Keep over winter in a frost free place

Salvia problems

Salvias are generally pest and disease free, but in climates with hot and humid summers, they may suffer from fungal diseases. They are prone to snail and slug damage.

16 of the best salvias to grow in the garden

From William Dyson’s Dyson Salvias at Great Comp Garden

Salvia oxyphora

A perennial species from Bolivia with striking velvety flowers that have a sweet scent. It will grow in sun or part shade but keep it out of windy places as the stems are brittle. 1m. RHS H3.

Salvia bullulata ‘Blue Jade’

A pale-blue almost turquoise form of a rare and variable species from Peru. William has likened its colour to the jade vine Strongylodon macrobotrys and suggests growing it in partial shade. 60cm. RHS H2.

Salvia ‘Crazy Dolls’

A compact, shrubby salvia bred in Belgium with a two-tone flower. The bottom lip is pale pink and the upper part of the flower magenta. 60cm. RHS H4.

Salvia ‘Flower Child’

One of the smallest forms of Salvia microphylla. The candy-floss pink flowers appear from July to October. 40cm. RHS H5.

Salvia ‘Jeremy’

Shrubby salvia similar to the popular Salvia ‘Hot Lips’ with flowers that are bicoloured in the height of summer and are either all pink or all white early and late in the season. 90cm. RHS H5.

Salvia discolor

A straggly plant with aromatic silvery foliage, slightly stick-like stems and almost-black flowers. A tender perennial that needs mollycoddling over winter. The crushed foliage smells of blackcurrant. 50cm. RHS H2.

Salvia ‘Amethyst Lips’ (=‘Dyspurp’)

The bicoloured flowers are sometimes completely purple, other times entirely white, creating a striking effect reminiscent of S. ‘Hot Lips’. Raised by amateur
plant breeder David Dyson. 1m. RHS H4.

Salvia ‘Nachtvlinder’

A shrubby, suckering plant found at the De Hessenhof nursery in the Netherlands. A floriferous plant, the flowers are a dark maroon-purple with a smoky sheen. 75cm. AGM. RHS H5.

Salvia ‘Amante’

Recently developed in Argentina, the silky purple-red flowers and dark calyces were a breakthrough in Salvia guaranitica hybrids, which are usually a shade of blue. 90cm. RHS H3, USDA 8a-11.

Salvia corrugata ‘Bright Lights’

A fast-growing shrub with aromatic foliage and whorls of violet-blue flowers at the end of the summer. Unlike most salvias, it prefers moist soil. Best grown in a pot and overwintered inside. 90cm. RHS H3.

Salvia ‘Indigo Spires’

A popular hybrid with long spikes of dark-blue flowers and grey-green foliage. Often needs to be staked to prevent flopping over. Flowers all summer but at its best in autumn. 1.2m. RHS H3.

Salvia ‘Amistad’

A spectacular tender perennial with aromatic foliage and masses of royal-purple flowers that have almost-black calyces. It starts flowering at the end of June and will continue up until October. 1.2m. AGM. RHS H3, USDA 8a-11.

Salvia ‘Phyllis’ Fancy’

Its white flowers, the texture of velvet, become suffused with purple as they age and are held in dark-violet calyces. It was discovered in UC Santa Cruz Arboretum & Botanic Garden. 2m. RHS H3.

Salvia reptans ‘Texan Blue’

A midsummer-flowering herbaceous perennial that it is distinctly upright unlike the decumbent species. The flowers are a deep blue, as opposed to the pale blue of the species, with long, narrow leaves. 1m. RHS H4.

Salvia ‘Ping Pong’

A new introduction from William that he selected for its densely packed flower spikes and long flowering period. The flowers are deep pink and appear from early June to October. 1m. RHS H5.

Salvia concolor

A massive plant with deep royal-blue flowers on flower spikes that can be 50cm long. 2.5m. RHS H4, USDA 8a-10b.

More great salvias for the garden

Salvia microphylla ‘Cerro Potosi’

This tough salvia can hold its own in the garden, even in quite heavy soil. Come spring it looks a little sad, but with a light prune to tidy it up and encourage new growth, it quietly recovers and goes on to produce a wonderful show through the summer well into autumn. The vivid, magenta flowers are small but numerous and carried on stiff twigs well above the scented foliage.

Height 1.3m. Origin Mexico. Conditions Any rich soil that is not saturated; full sun. Hardiness RHS H4. Season Summer – autumn.

Salvia pratensis ‘Indigo’

The meadow clary is one of two salvia species native to the British Isles, with blue flowers. In recent years, seed companies have offered a range of colour forms from white and pink to blue and purple. Salvia pratensis ‘Indigo’ was raised by Thomas Carlile at Loddon Nurseries in Twyford, Berkshire. It has a rosette of foliage and rather lax flower stems with a form resembling an upside-down pyramid so its top is wider than its base. The violet-blue, flower spikes are large for this species and very attractive to bees. This cultivar is raised by cuttings.

Height 90cm. Origin Europe. Growing conditions Well-drained soil; sun. Hardiness RHS H7, USDA 7a-11. Season of interest Summer.

Salvia leucantha ‘Purple Velvet’

Salvia leucantha is a vigorous, tender salvia, rather late-blooming. It makes a mound of long, felted, grey leaves, usually nearly a metre high and wide by September when the flowers begin to emerge. In October it is a fountain of purple. The flowers are actually white, but the calyxes and the whole flowering stem are covered in furry purple velvet, making the long arching flower stem look like scrunched up purple and white chenille, totally surreal. ‘Purple Velvet’ is all purple, less shocking but easier to use in the garden.

Height 1m. Growing conditions Full sun, frost free. Hardiness USDA 8a-10b. Origin Mexico and Central America. Season of interest September – October.

Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’

To achieve a full display of these late-flowering salvia (flowers in November) requires a fine summer and a mild, frost-free autumn. Inky purple flowers present in classic hooded structure, contrasted by generous felted foliage. However, perched aloft stems of nearly 3m tall they are sadly beyond easy appreciation. By planting out on rich, moist ground alongside a pool, and training up bamboo supports to reach a cantilevered balcony, we have found a way of admiring the magnificent blooms face to face.

Height Depending on treatment and conditions, but potentially up to 280cm. Origin South America. Soil Deep, well-nourished soil. Season August – November

Salvia greggii ‘Stormy Pink’

Around 20 years ago nurserywoman Derry Watkins, owner of Special Plants, found an accidental seedling in her nursery. She grew it on, took cuttings and then, assuming it was tender, left it in the garden to die. Surprisingly, it is still there, not fazed in the slightest by hard winters. Derry cuts it hard, back to thick stems like bonsaied tree trunks every spring and it grows to around four feet every summer, blooming from June right through until October. Derry named it ‘Stormy Pink’ because of the grey calyx that appears behind each one of the creamy pink flowers.

Height 1m. Growing conditions Sun and drainage. Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 7. Origin Seedling from Special Plants. Season of interest June – October.

Salvia confertiflora

Giant pots of this, threaded informally between specimen Agapanthus praecox  creates an exuberant floral display which lasts into October. It may not be winter hardy, but the rate and quality of growth in a single season merits better recognition for summer display. Stems are covered in a rash of scarlet hairs that define the elegant profile and each carry a succession of coral-red flowers in ascending whorls. Even when flower petals drop, the dark red calyces will command admiring glances. Cuttings taken at the end of summer can be over-wintered for next year.

Height 150cm. Origin Native to South America/Brazil. Soil Free-draining loam, or perfect for pots. Season July to September.

Salvia ‘Phyllis’ Fancy’

Although many salvias come into flower earlier than ‘Phyllis’ Fancy’, none have a nicer colour in late autumn. The colour seems to deepen as temperatures fall. The lavender-blue flowers, which have a whitish lip, are set off by inky-blue brachts. If you plant your overwintered pot in the open ground in spring, you will have a gorgeous clump come autumn laden with flowers. This can mean that it’s difficult to find a shoot without flowers for taking autumn cuttings, but with some luck the original plant will survive if the winter is not too cold.

Height 1.2m. Origin Mexico. Growing conditions Best grown in a pot in a warm, sunny spot. Over winter indoors. Hardiness RHS H4, USDA 9b-11. Season of interest Autumn.

Salvia greggii ‘Icing Sugar’

All the Salvia gregii cultivars flower over a long period. Although there is never a mass of flowers they continue throughout summer. Dozens of new forms are being introduced at the moment. I like this one for the complementary colours of its dark pink and pale pink flowers. Lots of claims are made about the hardiness of this plant but given they have not survived the past two winters, take cuttings at the end of the summer, or treat them as an annual and buy new plants each year.

Height 50cm. Origin Garden hybrid. Conditions Sun or part shade in well-drained soil. Season Flowers from June until the end of September.

Further reading on Salvia

The Gardener’s Guide to Growing Salvias by John Sutton (David & Charles, 1999). Definitive guide but now out of print. Try second-hand book shops for a copy.

Where to buy

Dyson’s Nursery
The most extensive stock of ready-to-buy salvia plants in the country.
Great Comp Garden, Sevenoaks, Kent TN15 8QS.
Tel 07887 997663, dysonsalvias.com

Ashwood Nurseries
Ashwood Lower Lane, Ashwood, West Midlands DY6 0AE.
Tel 01384 401996, ashwoodnurseries.com

John and Lynsey’s Plants
An outstanding garden and the UK’s widest selection of salvias, usually available to order through propagation. Open by appointment – and for the National Gardens Scheme.
2 Hillside Cottage, Trampers Lane, North Boarhunt, Hampshire PO17 6DA.
Tel 01329 832786, no website

Other good sources for salvia

The Beth Chatto Gardens
Elmstead Market, Colchester, Essex CO7 7DB
Tel 01206 822007, bethchatto.co.uk

Cotswold Garden Flowers
Browns’ Nurseries, Gibbs Lane, Offenham, Evesham, Worcestershire WR11 8RR
Tel 01386 833849, cgf.net

Dove Cottage
Shibden Hall Road, Halifax, West Yorkshire HX3 9XA
Tel 01422 203553, dovecottagenursery.co.uk

Larch Cottage Nurseries
Melkinthorpe, Penrith, Cumbria CA10 2DR
Tel 01931 712404, larchcottage.co.uk

You’ve probably noticed your garden lawn and local green spaces looking extremely parched the last few weeks. This has been a common sight across the UK, particularly in south east England, which saw only 7 per cent of its normal rainfall in July.

Last month England experienced its driest July since 1935, with a record-breaking heatwave that saw temperatures reach over 40°C, and lower than average rainfall across much of the country. This has resulted in low river flows across much of England, and reservoir levels falling across Yorkshire, central and south-west England.

Are we facing a drought in the UK?

At an emergency meeting held last Tuesday 26 July, the National Drought Group moved England into “Prolonged Dry Weather” status, which is the stage before a drought.

While a drought hasn’t yet been declared, the Met Office forecasts potentially several more dry weeks ahead – particularly in the south and southeast England – so the Environment Agency and water companies are now enacting their early stages drought plans and are calling on everyone to do their bit in managing water use.

Is there a hosepipe ban in the UK?

So far hosepipe bans have been announced by Southern Water for customers in Hampshire and the Isle of Wight (starting 5 August), by South East Water for customers in Kent and Sussex (starting 12 August), and by South West Water for customers in Devon and Cornwall (starting 23 August).

While other water companies haven’t yet imposed hose pipe bans, customers in the south of England and the Midlands have been encouraged to use less water.

Here’s everything you need to know about hosepipe bans. 

How to look after your garden during dry weather

Save water During this period of prolonged dry weather, gardeners are being encouraged to use water wisely to protect water supplies and the environment. This involves avoiding use of hosepipes and sprinklers, opting instead for watering cans filled with water from a water butt, or reusing grey water. Read more water-saving ideas.

Water your plants at the right time of day During hot weather it’s important to water your plants at the right time of day – first thing in the morning or in the evening – avoiding full sun when the water will evaporate quickly from the soil.

Don’t water your lawn A yellow, parched lawn might not look very attractive but grasses are hardy plants that can endure dry spells and will bounce back once cooler, wetter weather reappears.

Plant drought-tolerant plants Drought-tolerant plants such as salvias, phlomis and euphorbias are resilient, reliable plants that require very little water and can give your garden a beautifully Mediterranean aesthetic.

Start making long-term changes now With the effects of Climate Change it’s believed the UK could experience more extremes of dry hot weather in summer and wet weather in winter. Read our feature about what you can do in your garden to help adapt to these changes.

Don’t miss our piece on the best drought tolerant plants. 

Central Spain is not the most hospitable of gardening environments. Winters are cold, while summers can be be intensely hot for long periods and with little rain. Traditionally, Spanish gardens have followed French or Italian models, but now a new generation of garden designers is emerging, inspired by a love of the Spanish landscape and by the plant communities that naturally thrive there. Here, Spanish garden designer Fernando Martos gives advice for planning a dry garden and shares some of the combinations of plants he uses in his design.

Here’s more on how gardeners need to adapt to drought. 

Planning a dry garden

1. Choose plants from regions with a long, hot, dry season that have a ‘low water requirement’ rather than tolerance to drought.
2. Encourage plants to root deeply by breaking up the soil in the planting hole as deeply as possible at the base. Water infrequently and heavily; ‘little and often’ only encourages surface rooting.
3. Plant when small. Older or larger container-grown plants will have shallow root systems, which make them vulnerable to heat and drought.
4. Grow plants ‘lean’ and don’t feed them. Plants are more resilient if grown slowly. Feeding plants from stressful environments may result in several years of strong growth followed by a sudden demise.
5. Mulching keeps moisture in the soil and, crucially, roots cool. Chipped bark is good, but gravel or other mineral mulches are better, but only if the soil in the planting is not going to be disturbed.
6. Irrigation is essential for plants to look good, rather than just survive. But as some plants, such as lavenders, suffer an increased risk of fungal disease, plants should be grouped according to their irrigation needs.
7. Ugly irrigation pipes can be disguised with mulch. Drip irrigation systems where pipes lead water to individual plants are the most economical.

More on dry gardening

Everything you need to know about hosepipe bans

Drought tolerant plants

Four drought-tolerant planting combinations from Olivier and Clara Filippi’s garden in France

Dry garden plant combinations

Light and airy

Teucrium fruticans – clipped into mounded shapes – dominates here, its spring flowers add to the beauty of the grey foliage that complements the Lavandula angustifolia‘Hidcote’. Several clumps of Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ add bulk while, in the background, the taller Stipa gigantea is illuminated by backlighting – crucial to make the most of this early flowering grass.

Golden glow

Backlit grass Stipa tenuissima grabs the attention here, its feathery plumes complementing the more defined Phlomis russeliana. In the foreground Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ is in full flower, about to be joined by similarly toned Lavandula angustifolia‘Hidcote’  and yellow Achillea filipendulina ‘Parker’s Variety’. Further back, the silver-leaved Stachys byzantina makes a dramatic intervention among a drift of lavenders.

Bright and bold

Surrounding an airy clump of Stipa tenuissima the golden-yellow Phlomis ‘Edward Bowles’, the densely shrubby hybrid Achillea filipendulina ‘Parker’s Variety’, and the richly coloured Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ and Iris ‘Syncopation’ – all plants that have a low water requirement – create a light and fluid composition. Behind is a veil of Stipa gigantea flower heads – these airy displays never block views, but add extra sparkle.

Soft curves

A Quercus ilex trunk links the garden to the landscape. A soft mound of the flower-covered Cistus x skanbergii echoes the curve of the grass Sesleria autumnalis, which slowly forms tight mats of pale foliage that complements the colours around it. Behind, the more flamboyant Stipa gigantea draws the eye towards drifts of Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ and Stachys byzantina.

For more on dry gardens, don’t miss our piece on dry garden guru Olivier and Claire Filippi’s Le Jardin Sec. 

Here’s our list of the best drought tolerant plants. 

Water saving ideas for the garden

Water butts

Underground water tanks

Reusing ‘grey water’

Reed beds

_{Key water saving points for your garden}

1. Whether you choose to filter grey water or store rainwater from the roof or other hard surfaces, look carefully at the costs of installation and also of continued running. Most systems use energy in some way, for pumps or filters, and this can sometimes outweigh the environmental benefits.
2. Storage tanks should not be installed within 5m of a house or other property, which can rule out these systems from smaller gardens.
3. Some filtration systems for grey water can be installed in a garage or shed, as long as water connections to the house are both possible and unobtrusive. This removes them from the garden, but you’ll have to provide space to store the cleaned water too.
4. Try to incorporate reed beds into the wider garden rather than treating them as a stand-alone feature – use consistent materials to define edges and surrounds.
5. Even without rainwater harvesting, the retention of lawned or planted surfaces and the introduction of permeable paving that allows water to penetrate should be considered. The latter can also be linked to water storage.
6. Basic filtration of water can start at the source; netted covers for downpipes and gutters will prevent leaves and twigs from entering the water storage system.